Guys

I would like to hear fron any of you who have sprayed latex paint on your models. Equipment, thinning, durability, fixing decals and clearcoating etc. any info would be helpful as I intend to use this medium to paint my Feibao MB 339.

John

I've sprayed Latex with an HLVP gun and it worked really well. Here is the write up I did on my website

http://www.houstonhobbies.com/tips/p...latex-hvlp.htm

The link is also mentioned in the write up link above, but here are some pictures incase you miss the link.

http://www.houstonhobbies.com/tips/p...nt-session.htm

JR

I also sprayed some latex on some of my Warbirds and it went on pretty good. I added a little bit of Flotrol (spelling) and thinned with windshield washer fluid. Depending on your gun settings you will have to play with the thinning. I have only sprayed this on Prop models and would be weary about spraying latex on jets. Also one of the drawbacks to latex is that it takes almost 2 weeks for it to cure fully.

I would also add that laytex paints are heavier and you can add a lot of weight to your plane.


Alan

That also is very true Helinut, good point. If you do spray the latex though I am going to be very interested to your results and how durable it is on a jet.

Guys

Thanks for that input. In the UK I think what you refer to as latex would be emulsion paint which is water based. When thinning it you just use water and I am not sure if the Flotrol product is available here or is needed with emulsion. It is commonly used for painting walls and is available in matt and silk finishes and in a huge colour range.

I have been using a water based clear varnish (matt) with no problems over one pack spray paint and it seems to be quite durable. Two pack paints are a no-no for me as I don't have the equipment or facilities to use them.

I am going to try a sample panel on a spare wing before committing to the 339 and let you know the results.

John

John,

I am not a painter, but I just painted my first plane by myself. I am really happy with the results.

I used a flexible latex paint that I manufacture for the restoration of leather garments, Aeroloft dry transfers, and a clear coat of Minwax Polycrylic Satin. I applied the paint and Minwax straight out of the can through a "touch-up" gun at 90 PSI, it worked great! The Minwax must be applied wet, so that it flows and does not leave dry streaks.

The paint was kerosene proof, but not window cleaner proof nor alcohol proof. The clear coat is fuel and alcohol proof.

The gun is available anywhere, I got mine at Harbour Freight for $20, I added the plastic cup assembly.

John

Go to the Vailly website link. On that page, look at the Article about Latex lower left. Best article there is.
http://www.vaillyaviation.com/Intro.html

I know it is not latex, but Tom Pierce does a nice write up about water based polyurethanes on his website.

http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint.htm

I am too chicken to try this water based stuff, but after having a new baby these safer alternative are looking attractive.

Yes, Tom used Warbird colors which is sold by Chuck Graves, great guy to deal with. I painted my DF BAe Hawk with this stuff and it is the best alt to Latex. Its pretty much a waterbased acrylic. You add a crosslinker, much like Nelson Paint, and it becomes fuel proof to 15% nitro. The paint goes on really well and can be sprayed or brushed. Very good stuff and a very reasonable price.

I use latex often and I would disagree with that statement. It is definitely lighter than ppg and such. Roy mentions on his site he lost 4 and 1/12 pounds after repainting a 92 inch plane with latex. It is extremely thin when dry and very light, it also covers very well. I always use Sherwin Williams flat or satin for my warbirds and will use the same on my BVM sabre.
good luck
Paul

I would agree with this. I just painted this jet in latex with poly top coat, spraying it on with 3 different spray guns hooked up to about 40-60psi air hose. I didn't use any thinner. And based on the amount of paint left in the cans and considering the amount of water in the paint that cures out, the weight gain is very very small. Read the whole story here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5825995/tm.htm
Jroth, the gloss clear polycrylic I used is not 91% alcohol proof, it smudges the gloss finish bad. Windex works fine however.

I have used latex and have worked on planes that were sprayed with it.....the problem lies with repairs....I do a lot of work for customers, and the biggest gripe I have with latex is the repairability.....it is difficult if not imposibe to "feather" the edge when doing spot repairs....it just doesn't feather nice.......different brands are better than others, but I don't like it for that reason......too bad, cauz it's easy to work with other than that......the Warbird Colors are my favorites, all the ease of use that latex offers, but it wet-sands easily and feathers nice, making spot repairs very easy.....

I will second the "Warbird Colors" good experience. It isn't Latex, but it is water based and it is fuel proof. I've sprayed latex before and I have to say I prefer the WarbirdColors paint application process. It is a polyurethane of sorts and sprays like an acrylic, working best with HVLP guns.

I just glassed and painted a P-60 powered jet with it. It dries hard and can be masked and worked with in an hour or two. From what I can tell, it isn't much if any heavier than any other paint except possibly a lacquer based paint - those are nearly impossible to beat for lightness. But I can almost guarantee it's a lot lighter than other epoxy based paints.

I would agree that latex could possibly be tricky with paint seams. Not so much so with the Warbird colors, relatively speaking. If you are repairing an area it is best done by masking off a "panel" area and then sanding with 1500 and 2000 grit, and clear coating over the seam area. I've already done this when fixing a couple mistake areas and it's worked. Be sure to prime under the paint, it needs something to stick to. High quality, relatively light weight lacquer primer bought from an auto paint shop (in a can) under the paint works like a champ.

one of the 'Old Timers' in our club uses latex paint and actually puts it on with a ROLLER, his plans are not any heavier then any other and he said it covers great the first coat.

for those who are spraying with those excessively high pressures if you'd thin it properly or use a larger needle/seat you'd save allot of weight and overspray. i do all my spraying with 20 psi both from my HVLP and cup gun and can get very smooth solid coverage with a 12-16 inch fan pattern, it also looses all the tendencies to leave the dry spray streaks.

kc

20 psi is the sweet spot I've found too!

Krylon H2O laytex "Rattle" cans is what I used (white) covers in one coat, other colors are Testors Model Masters acrlyic
semper fi
Joee

WOW, the Cougar is looking GREAT UJ!

hi,
any ideas for what clearcoat to use with latex? i use glow.
automotive clearcoat?
furniture maybe?
achilles

the poly-acrylic works well.

kc

Uncle Joe,

The Cougar is looking great! Will you have it at Liberty Bell?

Attached is a photo of my F-100F painted with Polly S and clear coated with flat lacquer. For a first time user of this type paint on a large model, I was happy with the results. I am an old K&B guy.....so this is a new world for me. Time will tell on the durability, but I am sure it will not be as durable as K&B. Nothing is! On the plus side, it is much cheaper. There is about 40.00 worth of paint on the model. It is much easier to work with on mixing, shading, blending, touching up, etc.

Hi Jeff
Yes It will be at liberty Bell, and Jorge Jet will have one also. looking forward to see them airborne. Like the SEA scheme on the 100
Semper Fi
Joe