artchristic1

Do you have anymore pics of your F-4?
Sure would like to see some.

madmodelman

I've started a thread on rcmf Eugene, it's not much to look at yet, I'm hacking the fuse about to fit the engine correctly, I'll start a thread on here soon rather than foul the L39 thread up.

artchristic1

Sounds good
Thanks

skywarrior

Hi,
Have been beavering on the nose section and installed 3900 3s for Jet Cat ECU and 2700 2s for lighting . All air line and main switch system up front. This leaves 2 x 3800 2s for Rx via the Power Box Royal.
These fit nicely into to pockets created either side of the front gear cyclinder formed by the plywood frames. Ok its not in the main front bay but they would not fit up front readily anyway as they are fat little tings !

I will leave the nose cone bay for lead if required as I am using just one 20 kg servo for the elevator.

See what happens when it goes on the balance rig.

Downwind3Zero

My Feedback: (10)

Looks great! I have the older model w/o the bay doors and am currently figuring things out.
Btw, I busted one of my air tanks. Does anyone know where to buy the 350ml Air Tanks? I can't find them on GJC or JetLegend websites.
Chris

skywarrior

Hi,
See if uncle Bob has something that will fit. You can always put one or two inside between the air intakes if you want to increase volume as well. Maybe Tower Hobbies for a Robart tank.

Downwind3Zero

My Feedback: (10)

Uncle Bob - Good idea!

artchristic1

Nice clean work.
Did your kit come with thoughs kevlar braces for the nose like that or did you do that your self?
Cool.

skywarrior

Hi,
The kit came with some inferior ply plates that had a tendancy to delaminate. I bought some realy good ply and cut them again and packed the fixing points so they lined up better. The ply has a really good surface which has been sealed at source so it took the 3m Carbon effect vynl readily, hence the background colour and texture. I have used this on the inside floor of the cockpit as I will not be using a "Tub" on this plane at present. It gives a pleasant effect quite easily.

I will put carbon tows down the length of the front bay eiethr side nose door and in the roof as well to give extra strength as this nose area is quite stressed if loaded up as we are all doing i.m.o.

madmodelman

Jeff at Zedjet.com if you really get stuck.

Steve N.

Hi Chris

I'm not sure if the volume will be of help, but the demensions might. Todd at Dreamworks carries Robart air tanks,,, X-Small, Small and Large. I don't see a Medium.

Small RB-172 is 1 3/4" X 6 5/8" (237 cu cm): http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...Small-Air-Tank

Large RB-192 is 2 1/2" X 9 1/4" (704 cm): http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...Large-Air-Tank

I hope that this is of some help.
Steve

artchristic1

I guess there is not much left to do on my L-39 so I will start putting in a light system.
I am making molds for the wing tip lights, so if they work well and someone needs lights
I can make a set for you.
I'll let you know how they turn out this Sunday.

Steve N.

Cool Eugene... I'm still debating whather or not to do the light thing with mine. But then I can't get too far ahead of myself... I'm still waiting for the kit from JL/GJC :-(

Downwind3Zero

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Steve. I ordered the Dreamworks small but didn't realize the ones I was looking for were 350ml. BVM actually has some that will work.
Thanks again,Chris

Steve N.

No problemo Chris. As long as you're ordering stuff for a jet, it's all good (and exciting) :-)
Steve

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

I really like the blue camo patern how do yiu like it's visibility

madmodelman

If you mean mine not bad, bit tricky in certain light conditions when head on, the lights help on approach.

skywarrior

Hi,
Enclose a shot of the old L39 with light modules from "Unilight" an Austrian company I encountered at "Jetpower" once again. They are very reasonble priced, work well and you can programme them on a PC if you wish.
I have just purchased their new wing tip landing lights ( Windtip L39) at 10 W with 100' angle of view. Claimed to be the brightest going as well. The ones shown in the photo are 8 w and they show up well so 10w will be pretty bright ! They make a 4 channel unit and a 8 channnel unit and I enclose the link to their site. Ulrich speaks excellent English and is very helpful as well.

http://www.unilight.at/EN%20index.htm

artchristic1

Very nic L-39
Thanks for the link.
I will take a look at it tonight.

I like also making my own things. I am good with my hands.
I am not done yet with my light system but
I will post it to show everyone what I have done.
It will be a good system and easy to rig.
Some systems are over priced and we are at the companies mercy to buy them.
I am trying to keep my plane at it's highest quality but at it's lowest safe price.
Hard to do though.

skywarrior

Hi,
On my L39 above I used a flap setting of 25mm take off and 38 mm full flap. I noticed recently a mention of 70 mm full flap. Is this the norm as looking back I feel mine did float still at 38mm.

What is the general concensis please?

David

madmodelman

Use as much as you can get, 70 will be fine.

artchristic1

Hi Skyworrior;

I like keeping my planes as scale as posible and I learned a lot from my F-4 Phantom.
These planes tend to float when not useing full flap so I will use the
full scale setting on my L-39.
25 deg take off
47 deg for landing and same for speed brakes.
It is all set up right now.
Take the degrees from the under side of the flap with a bit of up pressure equal on both sides.
To do this, I placed the plane upside down with a small weight at the center of the flap (just enough to remove the spring back).
This will simulate wind pressure and give you an equal travel. Remember that without the small load, the flap will seem to be
not at the same place when released but it will be good in the air. Trust me.
Do a few up and down to confirm that the flaps will stop at the same degrees with the plane still upside down and with the small weights installed.
Just don't over put weight on the flap.
We do this on the full scale commercial aircrafts when the flaps need rigging with up presssure.
We call it ''Taking out the backlash''
My Phantom F-4 never rolled or needed re-adjusting with take off flaps or full landing flaps.
Try it at a very high altitude before you decide to land with full flaps.

skywarrior

HI,
Working away on the install and have just about finished the main part inside fuselage. The photos show the SRS Royal with display panel plus some ancilleries. The UP2 is under this floor and the RX batteries in the two wooden pockets either side of the nosewheel. I do not intend to fit a tub as I just want this plane for flying and easy access on the field so hence the sparse layout.
I was not happy with the geometry of my flap hinges and servo mounting alignment. As you can see there is an offset which shows badly when the flap is moved from full in to full out. I have tried to counter this by doubling up the ball ended rods which may add a little weight but eqalises any twist when operated.

Regards
David

Malcolm H

David,

L39 doors are closed with the gear up and down. You need a UP3 to achieve this.

Also I would not be happy with that flap linkage, even with the additional rod. Mine works very well with the pushrod on top of the wing under the fairing supplied in the kit as intended. I would urge you to correct yours.

Kind regards,

Malcolm

skywarrior

Hi Malcolm,
Thank you for the reply and comments. The UP2 valve is the one for doors closed when gear up or down or at least this is what is in 2x L39 and a Tutor which need this sequence. The flap shown is from the new range of models with the opening hatches in the nose and the servo plate is factory fitted underside of the wing. This does enable a greater flap throw but it seems they need to adjust their factory template.
I have both models new and old and with the old I cannot get 45'flap readily so I think the underwing flap servo mode is good but badly installed re the angles concerned.


Best regards

David