F-100 "Build" thread
10-01-2007, 06:44 AM
#27
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Ian,
That is something I've been thinking about. I'm also a bit concerned as to where the CG is going to be because that model tends to be nose heavy.
I'm guessing that its going to come in at some where around 45 lbs, dry, but we'll see. Its going to have a P-180 in it, so it will fly, and the slats are actually fairly effective, so it should land OK. The NASA 757 research model I've flown has a wing loading of 145 oz./sq. ft. and it actually flys and lands fine, it just gets one heck of a rate of decent when the power is off...
Bob
That is something I've been thinking about. I'm also a bit concerned as to where the CG is going to be because that model tends to be nose heavy.
I'm guessing that its going to come in at some where around 45 lbs, dry, but we'll see. Its going to have a P-180 in it, so it will fly, and the slats are actually fairly effective, so it should land OK. The NASA 757 research model I've flown has a wing loading of 145 oz./sq. ft. and it actually flys and lands fine, it just gets one heck of a rate of decent when the power is off...
Bob
10-03-2007, 07:46 AM
#28
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
The P-180 got an opportunity to check out its new home. There was some confusion about where the engine should be placed, but a quick call to BVM and Tom Dodgen straightened me out. Its back as far as I can reasonably get it and geting the engine in and out is going to be a bit of a chore, but it needs to be as far back as possible for CG reasons...
Of course, the pipe length was determined by looking at the plans - which aren't quite accurate - so its about 4" too long. Hopefully Tam can shorten it without too much trouble (Daddy wuk meal-lick-kals ???)
Of course, the pipe length was determined by looking at the plans - which aren't quite accurate - so its about 4" too long. Hopefully Tam can shorten it without too much trouble (Daddy wuk meal-lick-kals ???)
10-03-2007, 07:50 AM
#29
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Mounting the engine took a bit of thinking too. It sits so far back that the bypass can't be screwed directly into blocks mounted in F4 and F5 as specified in the manual. Tom said some folks have setup blocks that can be accessed from the wheel wells. I decided to hold the front end of the bypass using interlocking "hooks" made from hard maple. These are glued and screwed to the front of the bypass and to the front of F4. The back of the bypass screws into three blocks on F5. Its not going anywhere...
10-03-2007, 09:40 AM
#30
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RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Bob,
Be careful dropping bombs from the inboard pylons. It is possible to strike the stabs if not pickled with some positive G on the jet.
Be careful dropping bombs from the inboard pylons. It is possible to strike the stabs if not pickled with some positive G on the jet.
10-03-2007, 11:44 AM
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RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Hi Bob
I have an extra $2000. Would you mind building another one for me, for that price when you finish this one?
All the best
Greg Anixter
I have an extra $2000. Would you mind building another one for me, for that price when you finish this one?
All the best
Greg Anixter
10-03-2007, 01:02 PM
#36
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
ORIGINAL: Mark Taylor
Bob,
Be careful dropping bombs from the inboard pylons. It is possible to strike the stabs if not pickled with some positive G on the jet.
Bob,
Be careful dropping bombs from the inboard pylons. It is possible to strike the stabs if not pickled with some positive G on the jet.
Thanks for the heads-up. Actually, this aircraft is headed out your way when it is done. I'm not sure who's going to do the test flights for the owner, but with your experience, you might get a call...
Bob
10-03-2007, 01:35 PM
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RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Hi rhklenke,
You are a very good builder and thanks for posting these images, they are inspiring. I have many clients who all want top end BVM builds, looks like your are in that business. I noticed this surface treatment. What does it cost? I have seen what I think is the same treatment and it looks great but did you notice that it tends to round over the sharp edges of hatches and plug in surfaces like the fin? Thanks, Aman
You are a very good builder and thanks for posting these images, they are inspiring. I have many clients who all want top end BVM builds, looks like your are in that business. I noticed this surface treatment. What does it cost? I have seen what I think is the same treatment and it looks great but did you notice that it tends to round over the sharp edges of hatches and plug in surfaces like the fin? Thanks, Aman
10-09-2007, 10:11 PM
#39
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Still making progress...
This week it was finishing the bypass installation, locating the batteries (2 Duralite Li-Mn) for the Weatronics RX and the ECU, installing the mount for the air gages (5), and the I/O boards for the Weatronics RX.
Before the intake and engine are finally installed, they'll have to be removed and the entire air system setup and checked for proper operation. For that, we need the wings geared up, so...
This week it was finishing the bypass installation, locating the batteries (2 Duralite Li-Mn) for the Weatronics RX and the ECU, installing the mount for the air gages (5), and the I/O boards for the Weatronics RX.
Before the intake and engine are finally installed, they'll have to be removed and the entire air system setup and checked for proper operation. For that, we need the wings geared up, so...
10-09-2007, 10:17 PM
#40
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Here are the wings with the markings painted on. First with all the hatches on the bottom wing on, then with them removed. One is for the aileron servo, two for the slat servos, one is the landing gear hatch/door, and the two small ones are for the air connections to the EZ drops in the inner and outer pylons.
If the airplane is flown without the pylons, I didn't want open holes in the bottom of the wing, so I cut the openings in the lower skin for the airlines into the pylons as hatches and made provisions for them to be screwed back in place. The connections to the EZ-Drops will be made with Robart closing quick disconnects that seal off when unconnected so that all of the Aux. air isn't dumped overboard if they are accidentally activated.
If the airplane is flown without the pylons, I didn't want open holes in the bottom of the wing, so I cut the openings in the lower skin for the airlines into the pylons as hatches and made provisions for them to be screwed back in place. The connections to the EZ-Drops will be made with Robart closing quick disconnects that seal off when unconnected so that all of the Aux. air isn't dumped overboard if they are accidentally activated.
10-09-2007, 10:24 PM
#41
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
ORIGINAL: gluit
Hi rhklenke,
You are a very good builder and thanks for posting these images, they are inspiring. I have many clients who all want top end BVM builds, looks like your are in that business. I noticed this surface treatment. What does it cost? I have seen what I think is the same treatment and it looks great but did you notice that it tends to round over the sharp edges of hatches and plug in surfaces like the fin? Thanks, Aman
Hi rhklenke,
You are a very good builder and thanks for posting these images, they are inspiring. I have many clients who all want top end BVM builds, looks like your are in that business. I noticed this surface treatment. What does it cost? I have seen what I think is the same treatment and it looks great but did you notice that it tends to round over the sharp edges of hatches and plug in surfaces like the fin? Thanks, Aman
As for the cost, you should probably talk to Ron Randall at Metal Morphous (http://www.metal-morphous.com/pages/company.php). Its not cheap, but it does look good, is light, and is more durable than other meat finishes. On the F-100, the fit of some of the hatches was not as tight as when I sent the bird up for plating. However, I think that is due to several factors that I wasn't aware of - the main one being that some of the material I used to fill the gaps wasn't hard enough to stand up the the surface prep. process used and some of it got removed...
Bob
11-01-2007, 10:08 PM
#42
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Well, I've been working on the F-100 - a bit more slowly in the past few weeks as I've had some repair jobs to do. My 11-year old is a bit hard on the landing gear for his A10X sometimes...
Anyway, here's some shots of the wings with the servos back in. I was asked to substitute aluminum arms for the standard JR nylons ones. I've had two of the nylon arms strip out too, so I think its a good idea. With the aluminum arms, you have to go to ball links, so you need a bit more of an opening in the servo hatch, but that isn't much of an issue. You can also see the Robart cut-off disconnects sticking out of the access hatches for the pylons...
The landing gear is resting in place too. However, in order to run the air lines for the gear in the wing like I want to, the gear has to be mounted to stay. That means that the wheels and brakes need to be on them. Not normally a big issue, but...
Anyway, here's some shots of the wings with the servos back in. I was asked to substitute aluminum arms for the standard JR nylons ones. I've had two of the nylon arms strip out too, so I think its a good idea. With the aluminum arms, you have to go to ball links, so you need a bit more of an opening in the servo hatch, but that isn't much of an issue. You can also see the Robart cut-off disconnects sticking out of the access hatches for the pylons...
The landing gear is resting in place too. However, in order to run the air lines for the gear in the wing like I want to, the gear has to be mounted to stay. That means that the wheels and brakes need to be on them. Not normally a big issue, but...
11-01-2007, 10:19 PM
#43
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
I was asked to use the Glennis wheels and brakes for this model. On the F-100, the brakes are actually on the outside of the hub as shown in this picture of the full-scale. The BVM wheels and brakes duplicate the functionality of the full scale. The brakes are in the outer hub and the air line to them runs through the hollow axle. There is also a hole through the axle at right angles. The outer hub is held to the axle by set screws that engage this hole on either side.
The Glennis wheels have the typical Glennis brakes on the inner hub and the outer hub is only cosmetic. The Glennis wheels are good looking (for the most part - more on that later) and I hear that their braking action is good, but it seemed like these wheels were a bit "do it yourself" as there were no instructions at all and the method of holding the wheels to the axles and the outer hubs on was not all all obvious.
After fiddling around with it a bit a I came up with the ideas you see here...
First of all, the brass bushings in the wheels didn't seem to fit the axles. I was originally thinking I'd have to get a friend of mine to machine them down, but after a bit of fiddling, I found that one actually did fit the axle, so clearly the others must be close. So, I got the rat-tail file and the 600 grit sand paper out and after some time, they all fit on the axle smoothly...
The Glennis wheels have the typical Glennis brakes on the inner hub and the outer hub is only cosmetic. The Glennis wheels are good looking (for the most part - more on that later) and I hear that their braking action is good, but it seemed like these wheels were a bit "do it yourself" as there were no instructions at all and the method of holding the wheels to the axles and the outer hubs on was not all all obvious.
After fiddling around with it a bit a I came up with the ideas you see here...
First of all, the brass bushings in the wheels didn't seem to fit the axles. I was originally thinking I'd have to get a friend of mine to machine them down, but after a bit of fiddling, I found that one actually did fit the axle, so clearly the others must be close. So, I got the rat-tail file and the 600 grit sand paper out and after some time, they all fit on the axle smoothly...
11-01-2007, 10:27 PM
#45
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
When the Glennis brakes activate, they push the brake shoe OUT against the inner face of the wheel hub and this tries to force the wheel off the axle. So, how to hold the wheels on???
Luckly the wheels fit on the axle inside the hole for the set screws (maybe by design, I couldn't tell with no directions), and the hole for the set screws goes all the way through the axle (very lucky as the axle is HARD - I wouldn't want to drill it...)
So off to Lowes for some 5/16" washers - one nylon and one steel. Then we take a 1/8" cotter pin, also from Lowes, and viola', the wheels are on and secure...
Luckly the wheels fit on the axle inside the hole for the set screws (maybe by design, I couldn't tell with no directions), and the hole for the set screws goes all the way through the axle (very lucky as the axle is HARD - I wouldn't want to drill it...)
So off to Lowes for some 5/16" washers - one nylon and one steel. Then we take a 1/8" cotter pin, also from Lowes, and viola', the wheels are on and secure...
11-01-2007, 10:32 PM
#46
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Now, how to hold the outter hub on???
I've scratched my head on that one quite a bit... Right now, the plan is to have them screw on. First, I tapped the hole in the axle for the airline with a 6/32 tap (very hard to do because the axle is very hard). Then I cut a 6/32 bolt off to make a 6/32 threaded rod and I flattened the ends of it with the Dremel to give the JB Weld something more to hold to. Then I screwed this piece into the threaded hole and coated the end of the axle with petroleum jelly in preperation for gluing the outer hub on with JB Weld...
I've scratched my head on that one quite a bit... Right now, the plan is to have them screw on. First, I tapped the hole in the axle for the airline with a 6/32 tap (very hard to do because the axle is very hard). Then I cut a 6/32 bolt off to make a 6/32 threaded rod and I flattened the ends of it with the Dremel to give the JB Weld something more to hold to. Then I screwed this piece into the threaded hole and coated the end of the axle with petroleum jelly in preperation for gluing the outer hub on with JB Weld...
11-11-2007, 12:00 PM
#47
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RE: F-100 "Build" thread
WOW Bob that looks fantastic, I didn't know that there was that much stuff going into the fuse[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] your an artist!! Cant wait to see it fly
Ron
PS
I attached a few pictures of the P-47 I worked on shortly after Joe's F-100
It took 1st place at WRAM and will be in the air soon
Ron
PS
I attached a few pictures of the P-47 I worked on shortly after Joe's F-100
It took 1st place at WRAM and will be in the air soon
11-11-2007, 05:54 PM
#49
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
So here the outer hubs are glued on. I wrapped tape around the outer edge of the hub until it was a snug fit into the wheel. Then I filled the inner part of the hub with JB weld, greased up the end of the axel with vasoline, and fit them on. The next day, the hub screwed right off and you can see the result, both inside the hub, and with the hub screwed on without the tape...
11-11-2007, 05:58 PM
#50
RE: F-100 "Build" thread
Next I needed to fit the gear into the wings and finish the air plumbing. One of the lines that needed to be run was the brake line. I didn't really like the idea of running the brake line down the strut with some plastic clips to hold it in place - its not really scale. In the full scale, the brake hydrolic line is actuall solid where it runs down the strut and its only flexible on the ends where it needs to be. I dug into my "junk" box and came up with the perfect diameter brass tubing. A few minutes bending and some JB weld, and here's what you get. I think it looks a lot better than the tubing on the strut method...