FA22 Raptor??
#1
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From: Lake Charles,
LA
Good evening ladies & gents,
I was just dropping in to see if any one has heard of or has even seen a FA22 Raptor in the R/C circuit? If so, I'd really like some info. on it. Man, that looks like it would be an awesome bird to build! Thanks again, for your time.
I was just dropping in to see if any one has heard of or has even seen a FA22 Raptor in the R/C circuit? If so, I'd really like some info. on it. Man, that looks like it would be an awesome bird to build! Thanks again, for your time.
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From: Nordborg, DENMARK
Hello.
In Europe ther are several kit manufacturers, who have a kit of this awsome bird. Best known is Christen Diffusion of France. I have seen this one fly in Germany, and it flies really well. A bit like the Avonds F-15. About the same siz as well.
All the best
In Europe ther are several kit manufacturers, who have a kit of this awsome bird. Best known is Christen Diffusion of France. I have seen this one fly in Germany, and it flies really well. A bit like the Avonds F-15. About the same siz as well.
All the best
#4

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From: Lake Charles,
LA
That thing is beautiful!! Thanks much for the replies! You know what I also like, is that it appears to have more "working" room under the hood. I'll definitely be looking into this one more. Thanks again guys.
#7

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Here is a scratch-buillt Olympus powered F-22. The builder and designer is from Pitts Pa. The fuse is Nomex/glass and the the wings stabs and vert fins are Vacuum Bagged Obechi/foam. Air magic retracts with Glennis wheels brakes. Wieghs approx. 35# and carries 5 liters in custom made tanks. High sped taxi and rotation test from our grass field were excellent. We hope to fly it this spring.
RD
RD
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From: Lake Charles,
LA
Hey R/C Man,
Is that one on the hockey table yours? That thing is SWEET! How much time do you think you'll have put into it by the time you fire it up on the tar mac?
Hey G4, that's a great pic. I wonder what kind of price tag would be attached to one of those in ARF version?
Is that one on the hockey table yours? That thing is SWEET! How much time do you think you'll have put into it by the time you fire it up on the tar mac?
Hey G4, that's a great pic. I wonder what kind of price tag would be attached to one of those in ARF version?
#11
C4,
Looks more like a splash from Julian Reddick's original design. John Craig's is also very similar. The original mold's have floated around for awhile now ending up at Century Jets. They are supposed to release it soon. I have one of the original models and a plug, molds. They're out there...
Looks more like a splash from Julian Reddick's original design. John Craig's is also very similar. The original mold's have floated around for awhile now ending up at Century Jets. They are supposed to release it soon. I have one of the original models and a plug, molds. They're out there...
#12

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No, they are not not from anyone elses molds or plugs. I watched the gentlemen build the different plugs (quite a few of them) and all of the all molds. The construction technique of glass, nomex and vacuum bagging the fuse is very strong and lightwieght. It may be similar in size to others, but it is all original.
RD
RD
#13

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The Century Jets F-22 is well along in development. I visited the factory last week, and I can tell you guys that this airplane will be worth the wait! The detail that is going into the mold is awesome, painstaking attention has been payed to scale fidelity.
The weight and strength that result from the nomex/glass/epoxy vacuum bag process is incredible. I could feel the weight difference between the "old" and "new" style layups.
The wing shape captures the wild curves of the prototype, and the retracts are fantastic.
Give Bruce a call. I think you'll be seeing this one by summer.
Tom
The weight and strength that result from the nomex/glass/epoxy vacuum bag process is incredible. I could feel the weight difference between the "old" and "new" style layups.
The wing shape captures the wild curves of the prototype, and the retracts are fantastic.
Give Bruce a call. I think you'll be seeing this one by summer.
Tom
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From: Morecambe, UNITED KINGDOM
Detail on Christen Diffusion Raptor fuselage.
This is the ARF model with all formers fitted in a composite fus
Hi Kelly how are the english instructions coming along
Brian
This is the ARF model with all formers fitted in a composite fus
Hi Kelly how are the english instructions coming along
Brian
#16

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I have about 120 hours into the F22 so far. The biggest problem with the Christen Diffusion is that no one offers conformable fuel cells or a cockpit kt. I had them cut the working rudders out for me.
The kit goes together nicely. I believe there is a US distributor.
The kit goes together nicely. I believe there is a US distributor.
#18

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I'm 3/4 done
Just painting the fuse and trying to figure out how to reduce the linkage slop to the elevons.
The JR 8411 servo has too much play in the gears and hence the elevons move 1/1/6 up and down. I'm scared I will get flutter.
I'm looking for a new set of servos. Any Ideas?
Just painting the fuse and trying to figure out how to reduce the linkage slop to the elevons.
The JR 8411 servo has too much play in the gears and hence the elevons move 1/1/6 up and down. I'm scared I will get flutter.
I'm looking for a new set of servos. Any Ideas?
#19
Originally posted by G4guy
No, they are not not from anyone elses molds or plugs. I watched the gentlemen build the different plugs (quite a few of them) and all of the all molds. The construction technique of glass, nomex and vacuum bagging the fuse is very strong and lightwieght. It may be similar in size to others, but it is all original.
RD
No, they are not not from anyone elses molds or plugs. I watched the gentlemen build the different plugs (quite a few of them) and all of the all molds. The construction technique of glass, nomex and vacuum bagging the fuse is very strong and lightwieght. It may be similar in size to others, but it is all original.
RD
Notice the similarities in this prototype? John mentioned someone out east had one of the last of Julian Reddick's originals (Rick Hamel?). The hatch location and bulkheads appear to be the same! Also notice the wing root area, exhaust nozzles, and even the rough (identical?) seam on the rearmost spine. Personally, I could care less, just wanted to point out an observation...

#20
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From: Lake Charles,
LA
Hey RC Man,
I've noticed that the Hitec 5945mg servos don't have nearly as much "play" in them as the 8411's. I think it would be worth looking in to as far as trading out your 8411's. Worth the thought.
I've noticed that the Hitec 5945mg servos don't have nearly as much "play" in them as the 8411's. I think it would be worth looking in to as far as trading out your 8411's. Worth the thought.
#21

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From: Mililani,
HI
If you,ve got it down to 16" go fly. Mine moves more but I've had no trouble with it. As long as the stabs are mass ballanced you will be fine.
Here's mine after I added the stripes. Couldn't see it very well in "sunny Germany".
Here's mine after I added the stripes. Couldn't see it very well in "sunny Germany".
#22

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From: Cedar Hill,
TX
NitroMedic
You might try JA 8411SA servos. Same servo, except for nylon gears. Supposed to be a lot less sloppy in the geartrain.
JA
Hope this link works:.... http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/serv...=ALL&tag=qsrch
You might try JA 8411SA servos. Same servo, except for nylon gears. Supposed to be a lot less sloppy in the geartrain.
JA
Hope this link works:.... http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/serv...=ALL&tag=qsrch
#24

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1/16" is really nothing to worry about. You'll be fine. One suggestion I'd make to try and reduce this further is to maximize your control linkage resolution.
Use the smallest servo arm, coupled with the longest control horn you can use to get the required throw with your ATV's set as high as possible. This lets you use all 1024 steps of resolution of the radio and minimizes the effects of gear train slop at the control surface.
One comment.. I would NOT suggest using the 8411SA on something like this. Where a normal analog servo with nylon gears would blow back if over stressed, the motor in the 8411SA is strong enough to actually break the gears in the servo if too much force is applied. Stick with the standard 8411.
Doug Cronkhite
Team JR
Use the smallest servo arm, coupled with the longest control horn you can use to get the required throw with your ATV's set as high as possible. This lets you use all 1024 steps of resolution of the radio and minimizes the effects of gear train slop at the control surface.
One comment.. I would NOT suggest using the 8411SA on something like this. Where a normal analog servo with nylon gears would blow back if over stressed, the motor in the 8411SA is strong enough to actually break the gears in the servo if too much force is applied. Stick with the standard 8411.
Doug Cronkhite
Team JR
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From: Mililani,
HI
Rc-Man,
Carefull with that single-walled pipe. Mine got hot and the top rear fuse began to sag at idle. Quick thinking by my dad saved the day. He shoved a leaf blower in the hatch and blew it back into shape. Only damage was the blister in the pic. It got hot at the split area of the pipe. I replaced mine with a double walled unit.
Mike
Carefull with that single-walled pipe. Mine got hot and the top rear fuse began to sag at idle. Quick thinking by my dad saved the day. He shoved a leaf blower in the hatch and blew it back into shape. Only damage was the blister in the pic. It got hot at the split area of the pipe. I replaced mine with a double walled unit.
Mike



