I Agree, The ply looks good quality. I dod hower add a layer of Carbon Cloth to the nose wheel mount. Where do you get the Foil tape for heat proofing?

I am not rearly that good at scale details and I certainly was not going to buy the Tamjets scale cockpit so I thought I would have a little go myself. I am happy with the result on this sport scale jet

Dennis

www.densplanes.co.uk

He looks scared............................

I got some foil tape recently from maplins.

bigplumbs, let us know what they say.

Does anyone have photos for the alledged upgraded wing tube of the Cermark F-16 enabling check with the on i have.
Thanks. Regards.

extra 300, if you look at the wing tube you could see its actually 2 tubes one inside the other, its very visible.

on mine, just in case, i bought a full CF tube and epoxied it in, thuse making the wing tube as rigid as it gets !!

i3dm is quite correct it is a second tube... You can see it with the eye but it wouldn't photo well at all

Dennis

Bigplumbs
I see you went hi tek in the wings then !!!!
I think JR are whats needed but never mind!!!!

No Spektrum in the wings but am going Hi Tec in the tail

Im using the Futaba Brushless 451s on the elevaors, hitec wing servo on the rudder and futaba 9650 in the wings. The brushless in the tail should give very good feel and response, and are a littel more efficent than the brushed equivelent. Not by much, That i will admit, But hey, Every little helps!!

Here is the completed air system installation, Waiting for servos.
Nice and neat! Black for Breaks, Clear for Gear!

Pete

There is a slight bend on that retract pushrod you need to get it perfectly straignt or those valves can leak and loose all the air cos they are slightly at an angle in the barrell. Dont want to have to belly land her cos all your air has gone.

Dennis

That one is breaks, and i have placed the valve Push Pull lever horizontal, so a little side to side movement is ok. I have tested it and it seems to be ok. I will bring it round when we run the Wrens, and you can have a look. i will do the main U/C valve next!

Peter, just a note - the F-16's from Cermark that we have (2) needed the batteries in the nose for balance, so we mounted the air tanks more to the back.

Its worth considering this..

I Have a 3300 nimh pack, that i will put in the nose with the tanks. I will however keep an eye on the ballance. I was going to use Li-Po and 6v regulator, but decided to go for the nimh for the weight.

Did you put yours in the suggested place(Under the ply tray) or in the nose??

i made a new tray in the nose and the packs are on it..

Hmmm. May have to rethink then! Nothings fixed perminent yet, So thanks for the heads up!!

Could you post some Pics of your example? Did you use a header tank, and do you have any slop on the elevator linkage. I seem to have 2mm on each elevator half. I am thinking of using ball links instead of the supplied clevises for two reasons. 1) i never use standard hardware, and judging from my experiance with the u/c mounting screws, i dont trust any of it really. 2) i tend to over engineer everything i do so why be any different on the first turbine model i have built!!!

Look what turned up in the post this morning!

May have to re think the cocpit layout, Or in the words of BigPlumbs,"Turn him into douglas Barder".

Peter,

Yes i had a little slop in the elevators too - feel nothing in flight though.
About the tray - check out the gallery in my signature, im sure you'll find your pics there.
and about ball links, im not sure i understand how ball links would fit with the small covers above the horns ?? please advise.

The ball links wont fit the covers. They will have to be cut away, They do however provide a slop free, Positive link from the servo to the Serface, I have fitted one on the rudder and it works well. Also, i really high stress situations, You can add a ball link either side of the horn allowing for spread of the load through two rods!

Well this is hardly a high stress situation, so no real need for ball links honestly. but theyre always good, i like them too, but since they dont fit in the covers, we just used the stock clevises.

True, This is why i have used ball links on only one side of the horn!

The provided clevises seem a little crap to me. I like the circlip, but the rest of the afair seems sloppy, especially the fit of the clevis on the rod! Not impressed!

I usually glue the clevis to the rod using blue 242 loctite once im happy with the geometry, so no slop there !!

If you think the clevis is crap, then:

1. throw away the tailpipe, P.O.S.
2. Do not use Cermark's landing gear, use Tam's instead, Cermark's is crap
3. Remove all Monokote and replace with fiberglass, PPG, and a good clearcoat as the covering peels off in flight
4. throw away the breaks as they are not proportional, piece of crap
5. reinforce the nose as it is too weak, instead make it heavier and beefier
6. Don't even get me started on the exposed rudder link! [:@]
7. Paint the exhaust white, as not all of it should be silver
8. Add BVM heat shield to the whole fuselage inside
9. add K36 primer to the inside of the fuselage because the fuel tanks will leak some, eventually
10. Have someone make some custom Kevlar tanks, the Cermark ones are crap

or

You can keep it under perspective, use the existing hardware and have an absolute BLAST!
No point in changing the crappy hardware and leaving the rest of the crap in the model.

I battle tested, abused, rebuilt, repair, soaked in fuel, burned and still the airplane rocked. Sold it nad made a profit too.

I miss my Cermark []