Well, i finally finished my starfire. Well at least with the building part. Now it is time for the setup and configuration. I would like to ask how some of you guys would setup my configuration.
Here is what i have.

radio= jr xp8103
receiver=jr nec649s (PCM)

Stuff i need to work. Keep in mind... i am really trying not to have to a "Y" cable for anything.
Flaps 2
ailer. 2
elev 2
rud 1
gear 1
brake 1
steer 1
Well i seem to be 2 channel short to keep from using a Y cable
if i have to use a Y. what would you put it on. rudder and steering could be one.
thanks
sean r.

I have 5 of these planes. If you will call me at 913-484-9178, I will walk you thru the configuration. I am using the Futaba 8 channel radio and the JR 10SX.

Dave

i would "y" the flaps and elevators. keep it simple. the steering seperated from the rudder is too valuable.

Kevin whitlow figured out a way to share the brake and retract channels as well. the switch toggles the gear, then he uses the additional throw to activate the brake from his snap roll switch.

Thomson,
Any way you can post it here? As others are watching this thread and any suggestions could benefit others.

Don't forget the throttle.

If it's a D/F you should also consider an inflight needle from JMP or BVM. I used to fly Starfires on a Futaba 7UAP.

1 Ailerons - Y'd
2 Elevators - Y'd
3 Throttle
4 Rudder & nose steer Y'd
5 Retracts
6 Flaps - Y'd
7 Inflight needle

David,

Thanks for the email. I'm gonna get that out, I swear!

In the meantime, I don't advise trying to program Y's out of that plane with the transmitter. On my many and various Starfires, I use Y's on the elevators, ailerons, flaps, and nose-and-rudder. I even put two battery packs on a Y for a backup in case one dumps. There doesn't seem to be any advantage I can think of (performance-wise) for splitting the ailerons. The plane doesn't need any differential.

Here's a Starfire Building Tip for anyone who might be getting started on one:

The instructions call for you to cut a rectangular plug out of the sheeting and foam in order to insert the plywood block for mounting the control horn to (on the ailerons, flaps and elevators). Now, if you notice, the wing has a considerable amount of undercamber. If you are to mount the block, then attempt to sand it flush with the bottom surface of the wing control surfaces, you might sand away some of that camber in the process. Instead, install the control-horn hard-points BEFORE you glue on the trailing edges to the flaps, ailerons and elevators by using a thin hot wire, or a 1/8 drill bit in a drememl, to hog out an appropriately sized slot in the foam, and epoxying the wood plate between the sheeting and the slot you made. This way, there is nothing to sand, and it couldn't be neater. Wipe away the excess epoxy before it cures, and then cap the aileron/flap/elevator with the balsa leading edge piece as per instructions. Make sure to use a marker to mark the location of your hard points, so you can drill into them after you've glassed. I forgot that part on one bird, and had to go into a dark room and shine a mag-lite through the back of the flap and look for the dark spot! Hope this helps.

After flying 5 Starfires for 10 years here is my set up...by the way I live near Tom Cook and have had the benefit of alot of coaching!

The simplest is the following: (same as another response on this thread)
1. rudder connected to nose wheel. If you have an extra channel, mix them so you dian use a knob to adjust steering
2. elevators one channel (use Y connection). Make sure elevators move together by taping a 12 inch straight stick to each elevator. If they don't move in parallel, adjust one of the throws on the appropriate elevator. This avoids any rolling with the application of up elevator. On the JMP Starfires, one needs about 3/32 inches of up trim for level flight.
3. throttle one channel
4. gear one channel
5. flaps one channel. I use it on ch 6 with a 3 position switch. UP for normal flight, 10 degrees for takeoff and 35-40 for landing. I use 10 degrees for takeoff to shorten the roll by 50-100 feet. I raise the flap after one lap of the field. On landing, I drop 10 degrees when the gear is dropped before I enter the pattern at 1/2 throttle. On the downwind leg, I drop the flap all the way and watch the decent rate at 1/4 throttle. Very little pitch change should be expected. If you are at full throttle, you will probably see some pitch change but not alot. Make sure the flaps are parallel using the stick method as explained in the elevator setup. If the flaps are not perfect, expect a slight roll. Since the flaps are large, BE ACCURATE!. Patience will be rewarded with s true airplane...
6. one channel for in flight mixture

Optionally I have a smoke system on another channel.

This is the same list whether I use the Futaba 8 ch or the JR10SX. This is also my configuration for a turbine starfire with the appropriate adjustments for the turbine.

Trust this will help you all. If you get stuck, I am at [email protected].

Dave
PS Shaun...I have faith. By the way, I got the first grills cut for the F-18. R U still interested? I think you will like!!!

Is this a Tom Cook Starfire..was told it is. How much is it worth with JR servo s,L501,L4001 ?How much are they worth and there Torque? motor is a o.s. 77 bored out to a? .. Need help to guess how big motor could be? a 90?
Thanks Guys!

that is an old Starfire I. I have never heard of a "bored out" 77. It is priobably just an OS 77. the 91 wasn't around when that plane was kitted.

Mickey

That is a Tom Cook Starfire I. Square inlets. This model was my first Jet. I flew it on an OS 77 then changed to OS 91. I would plan on putting in a OS 91 is you can find one. What kind of gear are those. Do they retract? I would figure the airplane is worth 500-1000 if it has no major problems. That plane is probably very old. This kit hasnt been sold for a long time. Its a great airplane. Loved mine.
Scott

Mickey, I left a message on your cell.
Call me at home when you get a chance about the turbine.



Ronnie