BVM Bandit bypass setup
05-16-2008, 07:25 PM
#1
BVM Bandit bypass setup
guys , I'm doing a engine and radio install on a bvm composite bandit and I had some questions .... the plane used to have a ram 1000 in it.. the old setup was like this. the bypass went inside of the inner pipe. I forgot to mention that I have a tams pipe. now I want to install a p-120 and the exhaust nozzle is 2" from the end off the bypass and I know that's way to far. I talked to tam and he said that the bypass being INSIDE of the was ok ?? it would seem the heat would cook the exposed inside part of the bypass. here's some pics. any help would be appreciated, WB_1
05-16-2008, 08:29 PM
#2
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: reisterstown, MD
Posts: 1,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: BVM Bandit bypass setup
You need to coat the inside of the bypass with the brush on heat coating BV sells further up into the bypass than you have shown in your pictures. Can one of you BVreps set him straight on how far up inside the bypass to paint it?
05-17-2008, 12:25 AM
#3
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longwood ,
FL
Posts: 2,341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: BVM Bandit bypass setup
Mount the engine as follows:
The aft end of the P-120 engine inlet cowl should be exactly 5.25 inches aft of the inlet end of the bypass tube.
It looks like it is pretty close in one of your photos. Just measure it with your scale, and adjust the engine forward or aft as required to obtain the 5.25 inch dimension.
Also, the engine should be centered in the bypass tube. You can lift the engine with a strap in order to raise it into a concentric position. Tighten the 6-32 screws when it is in position.
These screws should be checked for tightness occasionally, especially after a hard landing.
Apply three coats of BVM Heat Shield on the last 3 or 4 inches of the bypass tube and cover interior.
The dimension and the rest are covered in the plans and assembly manual.
The pipe should telecope over the outside of the bypass tube...that's the way it is designed to operate. The 5.25 dimension and the concentricity is paramount....... If you install it per these directions, you won't fry anything.
Call me if you need any more assistance.
406-752-8409
The aft end of the P-120 engine inlet cowl should be exactly 5.25 inches aft of the inlet end of the bypass tube.
It looks like it is pretty close in one of your photos. Just measure it with your scale, and adjust the engine forward or aft as required to obtain the 5.25 inch dimension.
Also, the engine should be centered in the bypass tube. You can lift the engine with a strap in order to raise it into a concentric position. Tighten the 6-32 screws when it is in position.
These screws should be checked for tightness occasionally, especially after a hard landing.
Apply three coats of BVM Heat Shield on the last 3 or 4 inches of the bypass tube and cover interior.
The dimension and the rest are covered in the plans and assembly manual.
The pipe should telecope over the outside of the bypass tube...that's the way it is designed to operate. The 5.25 dimension and the concentricity is paramount....... If you install it per these directions, you won't fry anything.
Call me if you need any more assistance.
406-752-8409
10-01-2008, 09:12 AM
#6
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longwood ,
FL
Posts: 2,341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: BVM Bandit bypass setup
WB1,
The gap looks a little tight in the photos.
I don't think that allowing more airflow is a bad idea.
Follow the directions and cut and form the leading edge of the outer pipe as indicated. Be advised that these edges will be sharp after doing this, so make sure they are deburred so the blood stays inside your hands.
If you have any of the aluminum foil tape used on air conditioning ducting, it would be a good idea to blunt the sharp edges by applying a layer or two on the edges.
Make sure that the pipe ends about .400 ahead of the aft end of the shroud, and the shroud is contained within the augmenter as indicated of the face of the drawing. This will aid the suction through the space between the pipe and the shroud.
Call me for more help....406-752-8409
The gap looks a little tight in the photos.
I don't think that allowing more airflow is a bad idea.
Follow the directions and cut and form the leading edge of the outer pipe as indicated. Be advised that these edges will be sharp after doing this, so make sure they are deburred so the blood stays inside your hands.
If you have any of the aluminum foil tape used on air conditioning ducting, it would be a good idea to blunt the sharp edges by applying a layer or two on the edges.
Make sure that the pipe ends about .400 ahead of the aft end of the shroud, and the shroud is contained within the augmenter as indicated of the face of the drawing. This will aid the suction through the space between the pipe and the shroud.
Call me for more help....406-752-8409
