phjoker

My Feedback: (4)

This is from Alan at the beginning of the thread.
Here are some pictures in this thread [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7786583/anchors_7786583/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7786583]Dreamworks Pro Links Boomerang[/link]

I have the digitek pro lynx in mine and I was able to keep that piece in.

Fuel Consumption: I have a Falcon in mine with the specific boomerang made 128 oz tank... I get a 7 min flight with a little more then 1 /4 of a tank left
I do use a little throttle management. and I mean little.


****Edited to add link

jblloyd

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks all for the great suggestions. I can't believe that I overlooked Alan's post that answered my question.

hpais

I dremeled the bulkhead out and the nose leg fits like a glove. I also use Futaba 3305 Analog servos as recommended. I'm yet to fly the Boomerang... got the shakes. Yesterday I crashed my Cap 580 on a hard landing... that's giving me the lack of confidence to fly the Boomerang. Don't want it to become a bummer!

I will upload later some pics of my radio install. I used the included plate as a template and made a new one out of midwest plywood. Painted with nithrocelulose (car paint) and a coat of varnish did the trick.

cy paul

Your Boomer will fly "easier" than your Cap They fly quite slow and "glide" real nice You'll be fine man! Enjoy it and get it up!

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

Great looking install. I noticed the filter going to the fuel pump is in a vertical position and secure. Have you had any problem with that? I was told the filter should be in a horizontal position and not secured. I originally had mine like you do but changed it.

Thanks,

Doc...

BaldEagel

Doc

According to the JetCat manual which that install is, the filter should be after the pump, vertical and unsecured, their reasoning is that the movement will help dislodge any small bubbles inside the filter and prevent them becoming large enough to put out the fire and that being after the pump will prevent any small particles off the pump gears blocking the very fine fuel injector nozzles.

Mike

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Guys,

Save yourself some grief and strengthen the fuel tank mount /base. I think it was mentioned somewhere earlier in this thread but, is now worth mentioning again.

Yesterday, at an event, I had the fuel tank "EXPLODE" through the hatch on my Sprint when I exited a high speed low inverted pass by pushing vertical.

The negative g load caused the plywood base that the tank is mounted on to fail and the tank departed taking the hatch with it. The P-80SE shut down, fortunately, no control was lost and I had so much speed that I was able to gain altitude, circle the field and deadstick in.

The Sprint is a real floater deadstick, especially without the weight of a fuel tank and hatch Spectators were able to retrieve my mangled Jet Tech tank about a 1/2 mile away!

Damage was relatively minor and was limited to the tank base, tank, UAT and hatch.

So, beef up those tank mounts and enjoy flying a great plane, take it easy on the negative G's, these airframes fly so well, sometimes we think they're indestructable but, they're not!

Mike

skydell

My Feedback: (9)

Hello all
I have chosen to build a Boomerang Sprint as my first RC turbine.  First, I want to thank everyone who has contributed their input to this thread, which is an incredible resource for a neophyt like me.  It's terrific to have such a large knowledge base to draw upon.

I am deciding between Dreamworks Pro Link and Behotec for my LG.  From what I can see online, the Prolinks use Australian wheels that seem to use rubber "O" rings to compress the inner drum, and act as the brake.  The Behotecs appear to use metal on the drums, much akin to automotive drum brakes.   Which brake is preferable in terms of  wear, and/or smoothness of braking?

What are the general pros and cons of Dreamwork Pro Link and Behotec landing gears?  It seems a large number of people here are using Pro Link , some using Pro Lynx,  few using Behotecs. 

Thanks,
Jim

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

OK, I see what your saying so the filter we are looking at which is after the pump, is unsecured in that hole. This is the way I 1st had it but was told the filter needs to be in a horiz position, not vertical like the picture shows. Your explaination makes sense so I will change that on the Elan.

Thanks again,

Doc...

hpais

OK, as promised some pictures of my install...

Regarding the landing gear question...

Firstly, which Behotec are you refering to? I suppose you're thinkign of the C36-2 with trailing legs... -> http://www.behotec.de/xtcommerce/pro...for-Flash.html - I haven't found a Boomerang-specific kit in Behotec's site.

I have the Prolinks on the Boomerang, an undescript landing gear on my CARF Eurosport, and a set of Behotec C21 on a small model. I'd say the following:

- Cosmetically the Prolinks look good and Behotec look awesome. The Behotec are anodized black. Prolinks are satin aluminum. I've seen the C51 that CARF now uses on the Lightning and Tucano and it's a piece of beauty. [8D]

- I've hard landed the Eurosport several times and bent and fixed it's ugly gear the same number of times. It's tough and sturdy. It's a standard oleo with a spring inside like the Behotec. I now have a "tool" which really is a dowel of the same diameter as the aluminum strut tube to unbend it, and a corresponding steel tube to unbend the strut support.

- The prolinks on the Boomerang take landing abuses, but the spring weakens and if you land as bad as I do, you'll need spare springs. They don't seem to be as tough as the oleo on the Eurosport or the Behotecs. And if you let the model sit on its wheels you will weaken the springs as well. They do sag.

And also the price is not the same... note that Dreamworks gear set includes everything but the #6 self tapping screws needed to fix the retracts. And it also comes with awesome valves (I got the Jettronics). The Behotec includes a basic valve (I'd say no valves), plus you may want to have another bottle for brakes, and more tubing. On the other hand, Behotec comes with Festo connects which are superior (IMO) to the Airpower that comes with the Dreamworks.

As far as fitting the retracts to the Boomerang, my experience with the Dreamworks/Prolinx is everything fits, but you will need to dremel your way around some formers to open space for air lines on the mains, and for the retract itself on the nose. It's a clean installation with the wheel well covers hiding the dremel work. I don't know how the Behotec would fit the supplied plastic wheel well.

As far as the breaks go, the weak link are the tires. If you land fast and slam on brakes you will make a flat spot on the tires. I have it happen on my o-ring based brakes on the Eurosport, so there is no magic bullet. Disk brakes, o-ring or even a tab on the tires will stop your plane well if you manage your speed. If you don't, it doesn't matter.
It's the same in a full size plane. The brakes are a support, the solution is to manage the landing speed.

KC36330

Todd makes a stiffer spring for a heavier plane, you might wanna upgrade to those if your landings are that bad.

Launch Pad McQuack

Sprint Flying at the Woodland Davis field

Vettster

Has anyone had this bird SNAP out of a highspeed turn. It hasnt happened to me yet and I would like to avoid it. Just wondering what to expect if it does. Is it just a lazy dog rolling over or is it very violent.

Trevor

KC36330

if it's properly balanced you'll fold the wings before you snap it in a turn.

iiievolution

Hi Doc

Yes these filters must be in the vertical because air can get trapped in the corners. You can see this in effect if you use the Festo clear filter. Available from most jet supplying model shops.

Paul

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

But the bubble in a Fest filter (the one that you cannot get out) will NOT cause a flameout. It is OK to fly with.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

The Prolinks from Todd are are about as good as it gets. I just read that some one said the springs are a little weak. I just finished my 20th flight last week, 8 of which were on a hard surface and 12 were on grass. I'm not braging mind you, but all the landings were pretty much greasers. The point here is the springs have really weekend. The great thing about Dreamworks is he really stands behind all his products and sending me stronger springs at no cost is standard for him. I'm not sure he will be including stronger springs in the future but he sees the handwriting on the wall and is smart enough to realize it probable will be more cost effective in the future to change to a heavier spring.

Good luck,

Doc...

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Paul,

I never used that filter, just the ones from JetCat. Maybe it's me and I'm to lazy to go back and read the manual from JetCat but I thought they suggested the filters be placed in a horiz non secured position. If I'm wrong, please correct me. What you said makes sense.

Thanks,

Doc...

BaldEagel

Mike

cpierre82

My Feedback: (56)

Should you balance with the UAT Full? and retract up or down?

Thanks,
Charles

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Yes if the UAT is forward/rearward of the CG which in my intro it is. Retracts up is the norm. Mains wont matter if the nose goes forward then it will be slight nose heavy when retracted

BaldEagel

You need to ballance the airframe in its worse landing configeration i.e. UAT full, tank empty and retracts down on this airframe.

Mike

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Finally starting my build. looking at the instructions it shows the little screws that you use for the servos to be used for the landing gear. there is no way i would do that, but i am curious what others have done. i have Todd's LG. i was thinking # 6 or #8 button head screw (wood screws).

i have to read my copy of this thread but did you all beef up the wood for the LG rails? it doesnt look like maple and i am a little concerned that it is weak.

thanks

cy paul

Scrap those smaller screws, i had a really smooth landing and the gear was ripping out because of the smaller screws I used larger ones and all is good now .... Great Jet!

Later,

BaldEagel

I used 2.5mm x 16mm long in my Elan without them pulling out except when the should have on a very hard arrival, the good thing about them is once they have pulled out just inject some Hysol into the hole left and then re-drill and screw them back in.

One of my UC beams had a knot in it and failed eventually, this could have been avoided by inspecting them closely, I ended up laminating some ply to the sides of the beams taken all the way to the top wing skin with some ply on the wing skin to act as a load spreader, they have suvived many an arrival since then without further problems, but I have to admit my landings are getting better. LOL.

Mike