Some pics where they sit. You will also notice that the retract will sit on top of the mounting plate instead of coming up from the bottom. Before gluing these in you may want to check and see if the gear doors are sitting good in there openings and make sure your gear are retracting properly.

chris

I sanded the nose former down around its edges so it has a bevel to conform to the fuse. This will also bring this piece forward a small bit which in turn brings the whole assembly forward.

chris

This former will not be glued in. It slides into the slot in the nose former and it used for the air valve, servo etc.

chris

There is a partition former that squares the first 2 formers up, the bottom contours the fuse. The former that holds the air valves will sit on top of this and the second former. Before you glue this former in ,make sure the air valve former can slide in its slot and sit flush on the partition former and second former.

chris

The former that connects the first 2 formers has a cutout for the nosewheel. Behind that cutout there is another cutout for a servo for the steering. I used a extra long aluminum T servo control horn that would clear the strut on each side. I used all thread on each end of the control horn to drop down the angle of the cable pull pull setup. The second picture shows a small hole outside the opening where the strut retracts into. There is actually a hole on each side and these are used to keep the cables away from the strut. The all thread when put in the control horn will strattle the strut when in the up position and the cables will connect to the bottom of the all thread. You will also need to cut down the horn for the steering mechanism for clearance at the formers. I do not have any good pictures of this setup because Tam did not want me to glue the nose formers in and he wanted to install the retracts. I guess we will see what he has up his sleeve. I will try and post some pics as soon as i can.

chris

-There is an outline on the bottom of the fuse showing where the gun scoop fits up.

-I form these out of .03 plastic which is .01 thicker than what i use for most of the other formed parts and the flange seemed a little thick , so just a little sanding of the flange after gluing it on and use 220 grit and then 320 blends it in better. I left an 1/8" flange around the whole piece to make it easy to mount.

-Another view

-Not sure if it will help with any kind of pressure build up but i thought i would drill a small hole in the end.

chris

-Gun pieces.

-The inside of the tube that holds the barrels will need to be honed out a bit in order for the barrels to fit right into the openings on the end flanges.

-The gun housing will need to be belt sanded to the shape of the nose of the A10.

-Picture how it looks on the plane.

-The tube that holds the barrels will need to be cut to length after the housing is glued in place then the barrel flanges can be glued to both ends of the tube and then barrels put in.

chris

Tam has recieved the A10 today and started a thread on rc groups.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1177143


chris

Pave penny laser tracker

-I used some all thread to attach the tracker to the pylon

-Marked a line on the lens by spinning it on a flat surface, cutting it out with scissors and then sanding it on the table to make it look pretty

-Here is the location. Right up against that panel line. Make sure front gear door is able to clear it.

chris

Shot of both strakes

chris

External fuel tank.


chris

Looking awesome.

Hey Chris,

With my recent order does it cover all this new stuff since I ordered the extra scale package?

Looking forward to getting it and counting the days down! 1.5 weeks remaining!

FYI- I know we discussed it but I was interested in the EDF pods to be sized for the same size Tam will be using on his successful flights. Not sure what the actual size is though.

MadDawg

Hi Shawn

Pylons and ordnance are going to be priced separately from the kit. These parts are just time consuming , especially if i do them molded. The tank above is a rocket tube and nose cones. They are nice and stout but i will be able to produce them lighter if i make a mold. My thoughts are still up in the air on how i want to do all the rest of the ordnance. I was thinking rocket tubes with vacuum formed nose cones which by far would be much cheaper to produce but the quality would be nicer if i mold them. You guys should give me some feedback on this. What would you rather have, quality or a quick fix that is cheaper?

As far as the inlets, Tams duct designer, Barry , has already started on the molds for the reducer. These guys are on it. Tam was on the phone 15 minutes after i got to his shop, working on getting retracts and other things organized for it. You may want to keep in mind that he will be coming out with a 5" 11 blade fan very soon. I will also be dropping my servo mounts for his , they will add to the weight savings on the A10 and are very simple to use. I had looked all over for servo mounts like these and now i have found them. Tam will also be setting up a package that will go with the A10.

Thanks
chris

Doc

Wait until you see the paint job they will be putting on it. The painter does awesome work! I wish i could paint like that.

Now that i have a bit more time, i will be getting all the odds and ends out to you guys. Sorry for the wait. I need a bigger crew. I still need to cut your nose retract down.

thanks
chris

Be interesting to see this package and the 5" 11 blade EDF unit Tam will be releasing soon. I have search on information on it onthe sites, but have not see anythin beyond his TJ1000HD model wich is apparnetly more efficient thant the TJ1000.

Got a link for the servo mounts you mention? Would like to check on that.

As for the ordinance, that's a tosss-up. Weight versus scale looks. I prefer scale over quick and easy, but also don't want to start weighing down the plane either.

Shawn

No problem, I am in no hurry, got other things on the bench that need to be done. Tams painters are always awesome, they do exceptional work. Can't wait to see it. Kepp chugging away, but don't burn yourself out. you know on these scale planes, you really never finish them, you just get to point where you have to stop....LOL

Shawn

I will try and get Tam to post some pics of the fan. I believe the first test will be within the next few weeks. I will be making an extra engine nacelle for this fan ,so he will be able to switch them out. This is a pretty new thing, thats probably why you have not been able to find any info on the web. You will need to contact him on any other information about the fan.

Doc

The scale thing. Definately time consuming. But you gotta love it. I have burned myself out 100 x's over and still keep plugging away. I guess i just cant get enough. I guess you can say im addicted. Its like, what else can i do. There is always something else and being as picky as i am, that can get time consuming. I would just like to come out with a super scale A10. I think my stopping point will be arriving soon. Tam and i may start designing a sport jet soon. Maybe that will distract me. I always wanted to do my own design.

chris

Shawn

Sorry. Here is that link for those servo mounts. He has a few different sizes available.

http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...21349350bd0cfc

chris

I was unable to finish the install of the front strut on Tams A10 because he did not want me to glue in the nosegear formers. The front strut on Ty's A10 was cut down to a 6.5" over all length.

chris

Subscribed.......I need another job for this bird. NICE!!!

Tams maiden is planned for the upcoming weekend. I will get some footage for you guys.

We will be working together to get this thing dressed up with extras. Drop tank mold is about finished, and ordnance will be finished soon. We will also be working on scale wheels and struts for the A-10.

chris

Ty's installed pylons


chris

First drop tank pulled from mold weighed less than half that of the rocket tube and nose cones and is very stout. Weight came in at .26 lbs. I think i can lose a little bit more weight by dropping down from the 3.7oz. cloth i used but i think at this weight i would not lose much more.

chris

For ordnance, i decided to go with phenolic tubing with vacuum form nose cones. The phenolic tubing is a slight bit heavier than the paper rocket tubes but have excellent strength to weight ratio compared to the paper tubes plus they do not have the spiral to fill. Just sand them down and paint.

I have never had much problem vacuum forming until doing the nose cones. The high steep angle of the nose cone stretches out the plastic only to suck back into itself. I have been expiromenting with different methods but still come up short. If anyone has any suggestions or experience with this, your input would be greatly appreciated. I do not want to do these in separate halfs. Below is a picture of the problem.

thanks
chris