I am now awaiting the arrival of a Skymaster 1/6 F-16 and am in the process of laying out my priorities on the build and want to know which way of powder coating (for the landing gear and various other parts ) would be the best system. Coating and baking or coating and using high power lighting. They say to bake the part in a 450 degree oven for fifteen minutes. I believe this may lead to deformation of the struts. Could anyone enlighten me on how THEY have done it, or how they had it done so I don't screw up.

It's a real good idea to key the parts by shot blasting them with aluminium oxide before you coat aluminium. I also wipe off any trace of oil with panel wipe or thinners before dusting the parts. Have you got the cheap kit to apply the powder? If not it's worth getting one, you will be amazed how much you use it once you have it. I'd use a oven as it gets a better finish on all sided work, the heat lamp is fine for doing one side of a piece of metal plate for instance. Once the metal is up to 190 deg C, time about 12-14 mins and you are done. Time is not too critical but try not to under bake it as I hear it does not stick as well although I have not had this problem. It's really quick, tougher than most spray paint and can be fitted as soon as cool.

Theres a pic on this thread on some Ultra Bandit struts I did. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9366863/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]Here[/link]

Jason

I use similar numbers iwth PPG powder but a little cooler at 320-350 F for 30 minutes, and as stated if you under bake the powder will be tacky. Powder coating is a very durable way to go on landing gear struts, holds up well over time.
Jim

Bean, Harbor Freight makes a small Eco powder coat system that works great. After you "as Jason said" Dust the part with oxide or any good self etching primer just shoot the powder to them and bake it at 450 for 15 Min. after you preheat. You don't have to get a perfect build-up because when the heat hits it, the coating will flow out abit. One of the small cheap toaster ovens that you find at Wal-Mart will do great. Just don't cook your cheese sandwich with it after you use if for coating!! Ha. Roy

Two things. First, don't use an oven you plan on using for food afterward. The smell of the powdercoat NEVER goes away.(ask me how I know) Second, aluminum that's been heat-treated should not be heated much beyond 300-350F lest it be annealed to a much softer and weaker (T-0) condition. For some parts, this might be OK, but for landing gear you should consider paint instead.

You should consider spray epoxy paint, it's nearly as durable as powder coating, without all the hassles, I repair music keyboards on the side, most of them I get with the rear and bottom panels rusted/scratched, I sand down the rust/scratches and spray them with epoxy paint, they end up looking new and paint is as resistant as the original powder coating and has the same look/texture, dries hard in about an hour, I use the VHT brand, they are sold at Auto Zone, colors available are white and black

Thanks for all your input. It worries me to "bake" the part, especially the struts - due to the fact there is oil in them that needs to be drained and cleaned and everything else that comes with powder coating. But.......It might still be the way to go. Still undecided.

Powder coating was a piece of cake to learn, and I put together an entire rig for about $100.

$60 something from Harbor Freight for the powder coating machine, and around $30 for a toaster oven from WalMart. That way, it's dedicated to just this task, and no stinky / dangerous food or angry wife...

I soaked the aluminum parts in acetone to thoroughly clean them prior to coating. I found that it took more like 20-30 minutes, for the color to even out.

I was bugged by learning the process, but now in hind sight it's a piece of cake.

Here's an update on my build that had the powder coating stuff in it, along with pic's of the gear:

[link]http://www.mmrca.org/lance/sled42.htm[/link]


Lance

Lance, great looking job on the gear. I saw the powder coat system at Harbour Freight - about $69. Can you tape off the areas you don't want coated? You didn't have to scuff the aluminum or use a self etching primer? On one of the posts it was said to do this. Also, I have been told to bead blast the parts first. Was your gear raw or finished(like Skymasters) when you soaked them?

Richard

I didn't do any prep work other than the acetone bath, to remove every bit of the machining oils. The stuff sticks like nuts to the metal after baked, so I can't imagine needing to improve that part. I had reason to turn down on the lathe a little bit by the yoke where a bit of excess had got past me, and it cut away the same as the metal did... meaning it did not chip off.

You could tape them off, but the thing to remember, until this is baked on, the powder is on there, just barely. If I took a deep breath, and blew on it after shooting it, I'd blow half of it back off. For that matter, you could just wipe it off with a paper towel with just a couple swipes.

Be careful not to get the gun too close, or it will 'arc', like a mini arc welder would. It does no damage to the part, but the spark disturbs the even layout of the powder. That happened a few times on me, and I would wipe/blow off the powder and recoat it.

Since you can't touch it without disturbing the powder, plan ahead on how you will hold the parts, and how you can get them into the oven, without disturbing the powder.

Good luck on it,
Lance

Many years ago ( at school) someone told me that catalyzed polyurethane could be kept in a fridge for use later. Turned out to be true. Never could use the fridge again...