nope....the black wire is continiuos and not broken by the switch in most switches.....the white wire does nothing, it's a phantom wire....the problem occurs because most chargers on the market "sense" on the low, or negative ( - ) side.....since the negative wire is not broken with the switch, the chargers get confused and freak out.....

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92...tm.htm#9249729

Would this be different for LIons? I've been charging them concurrently with triton jrs?

Makes no difference what kind of battery.....I am guessing u are using 2 seperate batterys to power the Tritons?

There is another thread with a bunch of info on this....I'll find it later and post it here...

Using power supplies, could that be the difference? So, is it safe to say that if Ihad no problem with Lions that Ishouldn't with 123's? The other difference is Ihad a Batt Share between the switch and the rx.

Smitty, clarify please.....r u using 2 SEPERATE power supplies?

If it's the Smart Fly Batt Share, it won't isolate the common ground....I use them also...the Electro Dynamics batt backer will eliminate the common ground issue, but has too large a voltage drop for me.....

yes 2, but the same one for the rx batts and a different one for ECU batt due to charging rates

The Electrotek super rocker DOUBLE switches 2 batts with no common ground. The problem with that is one switch. I want 2 switches. I have called them and left a message for their techies to see if the single batt version also switches the ground., and I will post here when they call back.

All we're talking about here, I think, is a DPST switch as opposed to a SPST. I suppose the SPST is "safer" by 100% tho because the number of switched contacts is cut in half, and that's why they are prevalent.

I have been running 2 SPST switches (the garden variety type) in parallel to the rx and simply unplugging one of the during charging. It's a pain, but worth it I think.

The duralite electronic switch is a really cool piece of gear and satisfies the requirements with totally independent switches (I think), but is overkill and expensive as it also includes regs. It's reaaaaaly cool tho. https://duraliteflightsystems.com/ac...?product_id=99

I am a big fan of the Smart-Fly EQ-10 with dual A123 2300's. To me, it is a lot of goodies, in one small, redundant package. If the "common ground" is an issue, charge one battery at a time, OR disconnect one of the batteries from the system. This will cure the problem.

Fortunately, most of the new chargers will "sense" this error BEFORE it blows up your charger (and possibly your system). I know the FMA CellPro Multi 4 has saved me a few times.

Again, one battery at a time, or disconnect one battery from the system and you can charge them at the same time.

Chad

In my Flash I have 2 A123's going into an orbit power jack. I am using 2 Smart Fly Heavy duty switches. In order for me to charge both batteries at the same time I need to disconnect the batteries from the receiver. Or my Cell Pro 10 tells me "Reverse polarity".
But then again they charge so fast so sometimes I don't bother.

In my Boomer I have 2 A123's going into a smart fly competition 12 with the flag and pin switch.
I can charge both at the same time with out unplugging anything

On the subject of A123 battery questions, how best to set up a large prop plane - 40% aerobat?

I would like to use a JR 922 Powersafe Rx withtwo A123 batteries, but what is the best way to connect 4 aileron servos?

Use a Smart Fly Expander, oruse a Smart Fly 3D Equalizer, or use Y connectors?

thanks,
freddy

Freddy,

Wrong forum, but again, I am a fan of the Smart-Fly EQ-10 or their power expanders if you don't need the equalizer functions.

Chad

here's some info about the common ground issue and some chargers that deal with it

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9822652/anchors_9822652/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9822652]common ground thread[/link]

Good thread......

Idon't have a problem charging my 123's one at a time but Istill just wonder how Ihave gotten away with it on the Lions and triton jr's for the past 2 years?

Going out to the garage to scratch my head!!!!! LOL!

Single 2300mah A123 on Tam F-16: 3 flights = 402mah back in = 134mah per flt? With two of these Iwon't have to charge all weekend!</p>

Since you guys are talking about A123's please let me jump in. For my Boomer I got me from 42% base here in Sacramento 2 2,600 2 cells A123's a Blue box ( power distribution ) and a 5,200 Li-Ion 4 cells for the ECU, 2 of their hevy duty charging jacks.

I have no clue to these batts. time to learn something new, I order me a new charger just to be on the safe side, my charger is fine but I don't think I can charge these batts. with it. I'm planing to disconnec the batts. and charge one at the time to be on the safe side.


Freddy, this power dist. has 4 places for Ailerons, These units were designed for big aircraft.

Take a look.

http://www.42-percent-products.com/batteries.htm

http://www.42-percent-products.com/p...on_systems.htm

CARSII:

those batt backer toys might not have a common ground. Have u asked the manufacturer? I think I will call them Monday.....thanks for the link.

*

A123's only come in 2300 and 1100 cell's.

Mike

as far as I know, the ElectroDynamics is the only backer that eliminated the common ground....the Smartfly does not ( I use them) ....even the $800 Powerbox Royal does not break the common ground.....let us know if the 42% backer fixes this...I bet it doesn't....

Good find. The RDR-108T (near bottom of this page [link=http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-108/index.shtml]Twin output power backer[/link]) looks like just the ticket !!

Nice! Who is gonna try it first?

I will [8D]

I bought one (108T)....sent it back....the voltage drop was a bit too much for me personally....if I remember correctly, the v drop was close to a volt (.8V) under no load....they do not recommend using a 4 cell pack for this reason....I use 5 cell Nimh packs, but just didnt like the v drop....

Even if I used a batery backer that breaks the ground, I still can't charge unrestricted....I have smoke and lights that connect to the receiver also....I boughtt the Hughes charger and now charge all at once with no issues....charges everything...nicd, nimh, loin, lipo, a123.....

Here is another solution:

I mentioned earlier that I have Duralite 123s. It dawned on me to measure the ohms between the ground contacts for the four outlets of the duralite chgr. OPEN. No common ground. I guess it's actually like four seperate 500ma chargers in one small and ultra light box. The charger is a 12v dc unit that comes with an ac adapter as well, so charging at the field or at home is a snap.

This is good news for me since I love the simplicity of the duralites anyway. Because the balancer circuit is integral to each battery, there is no seperate balance lead.

At 500ma/port, the charger is slow. But I just LOVE the zero-hassle charging. Plug in the seperate charge lead of up to 4 batts of any duralite with lithium chemistry (ion, mag, or fe) and the green "charging light" comes on. When a batt reaches it's fully charged state, the green light goes out ! Could not be easier.

And with no common ground for the charge leads, no unplugging a power lead to charge.

Hope this helps, Don.

I have the DL charger as well....works as advertised...needed something that would handle all batt types and the DL charger is not it....