CARF Ultra Lightning Red Bull Build
 

Hi,

I just started to build. This plane has been lying around for ages, and I thought it deserved some attention...
This is my first jet-build, so I surely gonna need some help from you guys!
As it is a sports jet, flying it should be the easy part:)

The Ultra Lightning came with the extra fuel tank and digitech prolynx (jet A1) retracts.
My setup:
JR DS8911 servo's all around
Powerbox Cockpit SRS with 4x Spektrum DSMX sats on a DX18
JetCat 180RX (ordered) with smoke.
3x 2s 5000mAh LiPo (not bought yet)

My first question: the kit came with the manual of the old UL, should I just follow the manual or are there some changes should know about?
Any tips & trick will be appreciated.

I started to mount the landing gear and lubricated the breaks (they were stuck)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970965http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970966http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970967http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970968http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970969

Flap servo arm goes towards the bottom wing skin on the Ultra. The classic manual photo P25 shows it towards the top skin. I think almost everything else in the classic manual was similar for the Ultra. You will still need about 2mm up elevator for neutral.
As far as I know, CARF has not updated the manual for the Ultra, just this note...
http://www.carf-models.com/public_ca...rtant_note.pdf

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957114

You are using different nose gear, but if you chose to do a 2 part nose door check the split lengths. Std it comes out with the front section a bit long for the Behotec leg and it catches the tyre. Your leg might be shorter still so check the door length with the nose strut compressed.
Balance point is different than the Classic. Flaps will require down elevator mixed in too.

Dw

IS this a scheme you can get from carf or is this something you painted?

Thanks for the info.

I will do a 2 part nose door, i'll be sure to check the lenght.
Dave, you say the CG has changed with the new wings, I guess it's more backward, the old manual says 45-50mm in front of the center of the wing spar tube hole, without the wings on. What's the new CG?
Disco, the scheme was painted by carf years ago, the grey inside i did myself. I don't think carf is allowed to make this scheme anymore.

As you will notice, i am a ultra slow builder. I just got the nosewheel installed.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1957310

I would start balance at the center of the wing tube with wings off. You then may move the CG back to fit your comfort level. Mine is currently at the rear of the wing tube and I am still tempted to shift it a few mm even further back.

Regarding the Red Bull scheme, it looks like one from the limited number Sandor (digitech) had made a few years ago...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...ml#post9697222

Red Bull got funny about all the free advertising!

From memory the last one I set up was balanced as CARF said 15mm back from the gear plate opening. (I put my fingers just infront of the cover screws and lifted) Its not super critical on balance so fly and adjust to your thumbs

Dave

The kit was indeed bought from Sandor (Digitech) some years ago. I think at that time you could order every type of plane in the Red Bull scheme at c-arf, they also had the yak55, flash, etc... in this scheme.

I installed the aileron servo's. The linkage is a 150mm M3 threaded rod, as stated in the manual, but the kit was supplied with a 120mm, so i had to get my own.

Now i want to install the flap servo's, looks difficult 'cause they're hard to reach.
The manual says the flaps should be supported by phenolic hinges. My kit does not have them installed by factory, although the manual says only the first kit were shipped without. My kit sure isn't one of the first, as it is an Ultra Lightning....
In the kit i can only find 3 half hinges, (top right in the pic) and i need 8 pieces to support both sides of both flaps....
Has anyone pics of how they solved this, maybe i can use a robart hinge?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958765http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958766http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958767http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958768

Not needed on the UL only the Classic Lightning with AB flap.

You need to do the UL Gear door hinging to ensure the big doors stay shut

Dave

Ok, thanks Dave, that saves me some work :)

By the UL gear door hinging i guess you mine i have to mount my 3/8" robart cylinder horizontal, like this:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1958940

Wim

I just got finished building my Lightening and per Ray Labonte no need for the hinges. Also he said the CG is on the leading edge of the wing tube socket without the wings on.you put a wooden dowel under the fuselage to balance.That's how i set mine up and it was perfect. The 1/8 " light ply shaped like a bullet gets mounted in the nose cone area. There is nothing in the manual how to do it so i used aluminumn angel to mount it to the front former. since i was going to use this plate for all my batteries it needed support on the leading edge of the plywood so i drilled a small hole on the end of the nose cone and epoxied a tapered block in the cone. Then i mounted a small block on the very end of the 1/8 plate with a blind nut on the backside for a allen head bolt to thread into. This kept the plate from bouncing around inside the cone and made it a lot easier to access the batterys. Hope this helps some. Mel

Looking good ! :) I really like that RedBull Scheme :cool:


~V~

melvin, where do you fly? My ultra Lightning is ready to fly and I see you live in Houston as well. Where are you planning to do the first flight?

Hi txshan I fly at Fort Bend Rc Club in Rosenberg. It's a really nice field with a 850' x 50' asphalt runway. Also a 220' covered pitts area. Need to come down and fly with us!! We have a lot of jet guys that fly at our field.Just give me a call @832 785 7267 and i will get you in the gate whenever you want to check it out and fly as a visitor
Mel
PS I don't have the Lightening anymore! On the 16th flight something came off and it spiraled in, but i have a new one being delivered tomorrow am.so maybe in a month i will have it ready to rock and roll

Hi Melvin -

Sorry to hear about your UL...actually had heard that yesterday when we were out at Bomber.

We do sometimes fly out at Ft Bend but prefer Scobee since it's only a few minutes from the house....but thanks for the invite. You are always welcome at Scobee as well! Lots of jets usually on Sundays.

Thx for the info Melvin, i was thinking of putting the air in the nose and the batts around the front wheel. Or will i need more weight in the nose. I think the 180RX weighs about the same as the 160SX.

Today i installed the flap servo's
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1960933http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1960934

I'v read that the fin was strenghtend because it could break off when you do a snap roll....but the only vids i've seen about the lightning, everybody is flying basic aerobatics like loops, rolls, knife edge.
Is anyone flying snap rolls, spins, tail slides, wing overs, etc... with the lightning, and if so, how does it preform?
I'm not a big fan of speed, so i probably will be flying slowly most of the time....:rolleyes:

I'm in the process of building my new lightening and i'm going to Aeropoxy a dow in the carbon fiber tube in the vertical stab. Also i'm going to add a 2nd fastener on the rear end of the vertical stab. I don't like having just one plastic knob holding the stab on.I'm putting a Jet Central Mammoth in my jet so i need as much weight up front and as little weight in the tail so i plan on putting my air tanks in the tail since they weigh very little.
Mel

Also i wanted to say i like the Red Bull scheme!!! I had a Comp/Arf 3 meter 260 in that scheme and i really loved the look of the plane.I don't think i could handle it on a jet though, because the eyes aren't what they used to be Good luck with the build
Mel

The early kits (like yours I guess) had single carbon tube spars on the Fin. Someone flying very hard broke this, so CARF added a second tube glued in the main outer, like this its solid. If you are missing the double tube even gluing a dowel inside the carbon will add enough strength to sleep well. Yes the UL snaps and spins well, no nasty surprises with either. I have a friend with one and he is turning it inside out every flight (inc smoke) and has no issues, though he is not a speed freek either. I don't feel it needs the second fin fixing, but does no harm either.

Dave

Hi Scott
I was wondering why you say that the flap servo arm points toward the bottom of the wing skin? You say in your post that the manual shows it pointing toward the top of the wing. Did you get an update manual? I actually put my flap servos in the wing with the output gear toward the back edge of the wing and the arm pointing toward the top of the wing .I did have to shorten the arm on the servo and use the inboard hole. It actually worked out pretty well because the all thread linkage ended up being only about 2" long which should help it from bending during operation!!
Mel

Mel, CARF has not yet updated the manual - still the old classic instructions. This is only manual "note" they added... http://www.carf-models.com/public_ca...rtant_note.pdf

Several of us flipped the flap arm because it works. I never tried your method, but I think that would result in a shorter servo arm, thus reducing max flap deflection.

Regarding nasty habits, do not get too slow when inverted & transitioning to a vertical- it will do a violent snap. (same applies to the Ultra Flash, Bandit & UB). If you want to see what I mean, get real high & do some outside loops at reduced speed. If you maintain high airspeed it's no problem, but at reduced speeds it will snap out. Just a heads up so you don't get into trouble.

Scott thanks for the heads up onthe nasty habits of the UL As of now i have 45 degrees on the flap which is what the manual says full flap should be. I also have crowe set up on the ailerons
Mel

Well i just got finished with the nose gear doors,both wings completed and vertical stab installed!! I purchased and installed high temperature red silicone sleeving on my tail feather servo leads to protect them from the exhaust heat and it really worked out well. I purchased it from Oreillys auto supply.Tomorrow i will install the air cylinder for the nose gear door and rhe front retract. One thing that i did different on this plane that i didn't do on the last one was i epoxied an 1/8 lighy ply onto the existing plate that the blind nut goes into to hold the wings on.Last timethe prongs on the blind nut almost came through the skin of the fuselage. Also iv'e pre shortened the wing bolts 1/4" to make sure they dont grind a hole into my fuel tanks when installing the wings Don't ask me how i know this!!
Mel

My fin had a double carbon rod in it, but i added a third...just to be sure.
Hey Melvin, could you come over and finish mine too? At the speed you are building, it should be finished by the weekend...guess it helps when you've already build one :o Don't hesitate to post pics.
I've done the main gear doors and wing bolts. You confirmed my thoughts about the wing bolt penetrating the fuel tanks, i will keep that in mind.
I don't like the Bubblicious-look of Hysol, so i will paint that afterwards.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1962942http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1962943http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1962944

Oh, and i already test fitted a JetCat :D

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1962945

Just finished mine this weekend. CG is perfect with P200sx. Now, I'm just waiting for a nice calm day:D