Jettronics setup
 

I'm having a blonde moment. I have 3 jettronic valves in my Scorpion. Singles on the brakes and gear, double on the air brake. None of them will work. I have tried resetting and I have tried setting the end points using the buttons on the device. I have reversed the channel in the radio, I have tried praying but nothing works. What the heck am I doing wrong? JR 12X by the way. All other servos working just fine.

Dale

You need one of these.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-booster-SPMCP

Have you asingned the switch on the transmitter with the port on the receiver you have the valves in. I run Spectrum and JR and never needed to buy anything special to make my valves work. Maybe I'm the special one as I have never had a brown out either with Spectrum or JR products. LOL.

What happens when you plug them into a servo tester?

Don't program the valves! reset pressing the buttons 5 times on switch on. Increase the travel to 105% each end and go...
But a servo tester is a good test as it gets rid of mixes etc

Another thing you can do to start with is plug a servo in to the channel and make sure the servo is acting in a linear manner with full travel. This is a particularly useful method if using a sequencer.(don't know if you are)

Isn't the reset to default sequence for the 2 button version to press and hold both buttons for 3 seconds and then apply power?

I have several Jettronics valves (dual and single) that I use with JR Power-safe receivers and some work erratically and the others do absolutely nothing unless used with signal boosters.

Like I said. I must be special.

Sounds strange, I have several of these on Jr power safe rx's with a 9503 and a 12x and no issues, just plug and play for the most part....

Thanks for the replies all. I'll try to answer everybody's questions.

I have never needed a booster before. I'm running the same valve in my PST panther and it was plug and play no problems. It'll take a few weeks to get one sent to me.
Yes I have of course programmed the transmitter to the port on the receiver. Not my first ballgame.
I do not have a servo tester but they do function in the 12X servo monitor
I increased the travel to to 105%, same problem.
The channel is working both with a servo and the valve. The red and green lights do go back and forth as I throw the switch.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970658
What appears to be happaning is that the valve actuates and then leaks all the air out of the orifice at the bottom of the valve in between the two air lines (the blue ones). Even when there is pressure it will not cycle the gear, they do not move. I'm not sure what is causing this. Is it something basic or is the valve not functional?

Dale

Nothing wrong with the valves. It sounds as the gear are leaking. A common problem which everyone blames the valve.

Its not the gear, I've soap tested the entire system.

You don't test them with soap.
The most likely cause is air is getting passed the piston of the retracts.
I can assure you that if you are trying to cycle the gear and you can hear air, this is whats it's doing.

What are you driving with this valve? it looks very much like a Zero loss brake valve. The JD (two way valve has four air connections and the M valve for Spring Air retracts or brakes is a half valve!

Dave

I also suspect that it’s either a leaking piston, a blocked/kinked airline or possibly an incorrect setup.

Disconnect the airlines from the valve and connect to a standalone actuator. If this works, then the valve(s) is OK and the problem lies further downstream.

Good luck, I’m sure you will find the problem.

Just looked at your pic, Dave is correct, there should be 4 nipples on a dual action valve. 1x air supply, 2x cylinder connections and 1 vent. It appears the pic is of the low loss brake valve? What are you driving with it? If it's on your airbrakes or gear, it's a problem.(unless your gear is "spring down") It's only good for the wheel brakes. Mike

Indeed, you have a single action LOW LOSS brake valve shown, not a DUAL ACTION. Is this the unit tied to your air brake?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970781

Dual action should look like this(total 4 nipples):

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1970782

I have a single action because the retracts are air up/spring down. I was told this would work just find for the application, perhaps not. The gear are 5 or 6 years old but never been used as is the kit. I was going to upgrade but didn't see the necessity given I'm sure people had many successful flights on these old Behotec gear.

Justflying I have been pressure testing for 20 years and I can assure you it is the correct way to do it.

I'll take a few things apart and test them separately. I've never tried to use this type of valve for this application so it very well could be that it is not what I need. I'll also cycle the gear with an ordinary air valve to see how they are functioning. Once again the air is not coming from the gear itself.

Thanks all

Dale

You do not check to see if air is going past the piston with soap.
I would do what Mylo suggested. If it's the gear I can assure you it's most likely air leaking past the piston.
But you would know all this as you have been doing this for 20 years.

If it's a leaking piston you can then jump back on here and I can tell you how to fix it.
Mind you if this is the problem the best way would always be to get better quality retracts.

No no no no. You have a Zero loss brake valve. This is NOT the same as an M Valve which you can use as a brake valve or a SA retract valve. The M Valve is half the size.
Almost certainly nothing wrong with the retracts, SA system retracts have always been less hassle than two way air up down systems where there cannot be a leak. This is not a leaking problem, its a wrong valve problem.
What sort of valve do you have on the brakes? Same type or the single smaller, M Valve? If the same type you need a new valve. If you happen to have a single on brakes (not one that says Brake valve on the side like this one) you can swap.
The internals of the zero loss brake valve are completely different.

Ok, that should solve the problem them. Wrong valve. I do have the same valve for a brake valve. I'll talk to the store that sold it to me and see if they will swap for the one I need. I'm still going to take a few things out and check but I'm sure thats the issue.

Thanks Gents.

Dale

This valve is for the Brakes single valve!!!! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...069052&thumb=1 This one is also for brakes..... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...005004&thumb=1

Turns out I had a kink in my line. I'm finding festo tubing is not as forgiving as the robart air line I'm used to.

The single "brake" valve if you will works very well for the application given the retracts are air up/spring down.

Thanks for all the help

Dale