@VK96

A couple of questions: Are you using the bus input or the normal servo mode? Do you have the nose wheel gyro activated or is "Gyro gain" set to zero in the "Steering setup" screen?

Thomas

Running normal mode..when trying EX Bus the controller was acting erratic. In that case not only was the NWS acting up, but retraction/extension was also erratic. FWIW I have another GS200 in my other Ultra Flash, and that controller also acts erratic in EX Bus mode.
I'm running gyro gain for both steering and braking. Values in the 25-35% range...will have to check specifically.

I noticed that you also have a Cortex gyro installed in the plane. Is the steering input a separate channel coming directly from the CB200 or are you using the rudder output as the steering input that goes through the Cortex first? Then you would have two gyros in series that might cause problems! Have you tried deactivating the steering gyro by setting the gain to zero?

Thomas

NWS is a dedicated channel and not run through the cortex. I've not tried reducing the gyro gain back to zero, but can the next time it happens. The issue is random...just begins right after powering up. Could go 20 power cycles with no issues and then all the sudden it'll occur. Just curious, have you been able to run EX Bus to the GS200? Found it odd that both controllers responded the same way in that configuration.

Is it possible that a strong signal from the TX being in close proximity to the controller when it is powered-up is scrambling things? I once had a controller that would lose it's proportional braking if the TX was too close when it was powered up. After I figured it out it never happened again while keeping the TX away or having my body between the TX & controller.
Len

I had several GS-200 controllers and now the newer model with the black casing, but never tried the bus setup. I would try to reduce the gyro gain to zero on the nose wheel to see if it's the gyro function or something else.

Thomas

Thanks Len...that's an interesting suggestion. In all cases the TX has been close to the jet. I'll try moving the TX away next time.

I've got the new ones as well...I'll try reducing the gain to zero next time and report back. Thanks for the suggestion.

Reviving this old thread, only because it seems there are a few Electron Retract experts out there. :cool:

I just picked up a set of ER-50s. The ER-40s I have in my Rebel work great. With the 40s, one can individually operate the retracts by applying a voltage (6-7 v) to the retract unit itself... And just reverse polarity to retract to the opposite direction. CAN THAT BE DONE still with the ER-50s?

Reason I ask, is because there is a little tag on the actuator housing that states "Don't connect direct to battery"...

Yes ....
Use a 4.8 volt Nicad pack if you have one - works great for setup purposes

I made a special gear test harness from a Y connector to do just that and easily reverse polarity. The key is to remove battery power just as the gear strut movement stops in either up or down position. The drive screw is still turning and has not hit the stop/stall point yet. Its easy but you must pay attention to remove battery power before the screw drive stops and stalls.

I prefer to use manual controller from electron for installation and field assembly of the wings to the fuselage. Spending 40 bucks or so to avoid burned retracts was worth the price to me..

Thanks for the input, guys. :) I had also made a test harness for my ER-40s, in which I used an old 5 cell JR NiCd pack. I just tested it on my new gear and they work fine with the ER-50s. I needed to actuate them to ensure one of my sets was indeed a 100 degree rotation setup.

I didn't even think to look up what their manual controller was for... :confused: Now I know! Thanks Florian! On my next order, I may pick one up, just to be on the safe side!

Have a good Christmas, guys!

Got my controller within a couple days ordering from JAG RC/Electron Retracts USA
makes install/set-up very easy
https://jag-rc.com/shop?olsPage=prod...ual-controller

https://www.facebook.com/electronretractsusa/

I agree. That manual controller is a really nice tool for operating the retracts in situations where they need to be down in order to remove the wings but then need to be retracted for transport of the wings. The same is true when assembling the plane if the gear needs to be down to plug the wings in.

I was looking for a place to buy the controller but these links had not been posted yet, so I got a hold of Scott Marr and he gave me Greg's email address. I did not know he had a business and website.Greg replied with a link to the controller on his website, I got one ordered last night and he shipped it today. Can't beat that for service.

I did not know the manual controller was available till this thread. I'm ordering one tonight.
Thanks for the info.

Hi Spuetz

I have same M346 equipped with Xicoy LGC-15 which I believe is about the same as GS-200. I have no veering on brakes. It is actually very stable... just needs to have friction on tyres. I have set up that has low braking force and little gyro correction. I guessed these parameters last spring and haven't made any corrections since:
Pulse ratio 1/5, Steering mix 10%, Gyro mix 10%. Center 0%, Gain 100%, Gyro gain -10%

Hope this helps, Jyri

Friends, I have a set of er40 ( reversible) controlled by a GS200. One motor in one of the retracts went faulty and I ordered a new one. Its installed now, but a I face a strange problem in that retract. It is moving opposite to the other two. I have checked everything I the tr union is installed in the proper way. I did not find anyway option in GS200 to prevent this . Or to reverse one retract. Can anyone help?

You just need to reversed the plug into the slot ie red to black and black to red...it's because you have that one in reverse mode

Transpose the retract motor leads -

Unplug the two other units and cycle this one so they all are in the same position. Then plug them all in, and then they should operate together.