ROO II Question
 

On the composite arf model the elevons and rudders are pre hinged. When you go to move them towards the hinge side...they work fine, But when you move them away from the hing they bind on the other side of the surface.

My question is. Should the not hinged side of the moving surface go above or below its other side. Take for instance the elevons.....i do believe that they are hing on the bottom side of the wing. When you move the surface down....it deflects fine. When you move the surface up it hits the trailing edge of the wing. Should the topside of the elevon go on top of the wing when deflected or should it go below the top of the wing when deflected. I am attaching a pic to better help explain myself

Thanks
Sean

RE: ROO II Question
 

It`s supposed to tuck under.
I bougt some gap seal tape and taped it to the elevon. That would guide it under the TE of the wing.

Sorry, I havn`t got a pic of the tape installed.

RE: ROO II Question
 

I had to sand it back carefully in mine is some areas of ailerons and rudders, the gap must be enough for the aileron to go IN to the hinge area, otherwise the material on the aileron will break.

Regards,
Richard

RE: ROO II Question
 

You can use heat gun and a credit card to slightly lift the hinge pocket, heat the area lightly (dont get it too hot) and slide the credit card between the elevon and the trailing wing skin and push the elevon up. Hold it there till the surface cools and then move down the wing the width of the card and do it again till youv'e covered the span of the wing. This will correct the gap....

Todd

RE: ROO II Question
 

I used clear tape on the elevon, I think it's the safest way. I have heard of models being lost due to surface lockup at high speed. The tape smooths the edge and stops any binding. It also looks OK if you use clear

Mark

RE: ROO II Question
 

i am at the same point on building my kangaroo, does anyone have any pictures of how they worked the top of the wing area where the gap is???

thanks mark

RE: ROO II Question
 

I used Todd's method on my Rookie. It really works great, but if you do it this way, it doesn't take much heat. Hold the heat gun well away from the area.

RE: ROO II Question
 

Todd!

You are the Man!!! I agree with whomever posted the PayPal idea for all the great help and advice you give, you deserve it! If I make it to any of the events on your side of the country next year, dinner & drinks are on me.:D

Thanks once again,
Mark LaCoste
Roseville, Ca.

RE: ROO II Question
 

I have another question. In the manual it states to use some laminating epoxy resin or someother stuff to glue the control horns into each suface. Can you use aeropoxy or 30min epoxy with milled fibre? Or is there a specific reason to use "laminating epoxy resin"

thanks
sean

RE: ROO II Question
 

Just a comment about the gap on the elevon make as big as possible because I heard of a chap whos wing expanded due to the heat of the sun to the point that they started binding - nearly a lost model. He put it in the shade wing cooled no more binding


all the best

ant

RE: ROO II Question
 

Aeropoxy works great for that purpose.