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RE: Cermark F16
Its a great beater turbine model ! :D
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RE: Cermark F16
ORIGINAL: FalconWings ORIGINAL: ayrisspeter True, This is why i have used ball links on only one side of the horn! The provided clevises seem a little crap to me. I like the circlip, but the rest of the afair seems sloppy, especially the fit of the clevis on the rod! Not impressed! 1. throw away the tailpipe, P.O.S. 2. Do not use Cermark's landing gear, use Tam's instead, Cermark's is crap 3. Remove all Monokote and replace with fiberglass, PPG, and a good clearcoat as the covering peels off in flight 4. throw away the breaks as they are not proportional, piece of crap 5. reinforce the nose as it is too weak, instead make it heavier and beefier 6. Don't even get me started on the exposed rudder link! [:@] 7. Paint the exhaust white, as not all of it should be silver 8. Add BVM heat shield to the whole fuselage inside 9. add K36 primer to the inside of the fuselage because the fuel tanks will leak some, eventually 10. Have someone make some custom Kevlar tanks, the Cermark ones are crap or You can keep it under perspective, use the existing hardware and have an absolute BLAST! No point in changing the crappy hardware and leaving the rest of the crap in the model. I battle tested, abused, rebuilt, repair, soaked in fuel, burned and still the airplane rocked. Sold it nad made a profit too. I miss my Cermark [:o] I have to agree with this but I know where Pete is comming from but I subscribe to the principal of trying to use all the gear supplied with a model (and I have built over 65 ARTF's and still have them all). I change very little if anything in a kit as I have found that it is usually ok. Keep them light simple and full of as little as possible.... Or You can..... Change out all the hardware Reinforce everything Put in 2 batteries as redundancy Use a regulator or 2 Add in an opto isolator Bin the retract valves and use electronic ones Add in loads of Gyros Have 2 receivers Buy the most expensive digital servos available And of course........ Spend loads of cash and fly a brick Keep it simple I say :D;) |
RE: Cermark F16
This is the First Turbine model, and the fastses plane i have built. So forgive me for being paranoid about chucking away a 20 pence rubbish clevis and replacing with a heavy duty ball link!
Its all very well you saying replace this and that, But all the accessories, Like the kits, are Half Price over there! You can use the tail pipe, that looks OK, the monokote is lighter than glassing the wings (And looks Fine), the tanks are ok, If there seald correctly (Which they can be BEFORE fitting) you dont need to prime the inside, The nose isnt load bearing, So under normal conditions will be fine, The exposed rudder link works well, No Slop and i have used a ball link, and you can save a £3000 model by spending £3 on a heavy duty BAll Link and binning the Clecises and Crap Screws! You can have fun with a well built model just as much as with one thats going to fall appart!!!! |
RE: Cermark F16
How do you seal the tank ?
We never had them leak.. As far as gardware, honestly we never had a problem with stock hardware anywhere, i reckon its not the best, but its up for the job - and ours has a few hours of air time by now ! |
RE: Cermark F16
ORIGINAL: i3dm How do you seal the tank ? We never had them leak.. As far as gardware, honestly we never had a problem with stock hardware anywhere, i reckon its not the best, but its up for the job - and ours has a few hours of air time by now ! Dennis |
RE: Cermark F16
Im sure the hardware will work, But i want to over engineer it. Afterall i will be flying it, and i dont want to be worying about that clevis that i didnt have alot of confidence in during the build!! Thats what its all about. Piece of mind. Becides, I have chucked the clevses now, so im using the ball links.
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RE: Cermark F16
Dude your the owner........do wahetever you think is fit.
But seriously if yours was 3000 pounds, someone robbed you. :D I sold mine RTF with turbine for $2500. Oh yes, but I did not charge for the additional bondo. |
RE: Cermark F16
Try and spend that in the uk and get anywgere near the spec you had in the states!
Not possible, You will end up with 1/2 a model! As BigPlumbs said earlier in the thread, You in the states pay roughly half what we pay here. To be honest with you, I work in my local model shop and am building it for the show season, Im not paying, But will be flying it in Public, Thats why im paranoid. I heard of a guy who had a 1/4 scale pits go into the croud and kill someone at a show, He was liable till it was discovered that it was radio failure. If it had been a build quality issue, he would have been done for Man Slaughter! |
RE: Cermark F16
ORIGINAL: ayrisspeter Try and spend that in the uk and get anywgere near the spec you had in the states! Not possible, You will end up with 1/2 a model! As BigPlumbs said earlier in the thread, You in the states pay roughly half what we pay here. To be honest with you, I work in my local model shop and am building it for the show season, Im not paying, But will be flying it in Public, Thats why im paranoid. I heard of a guy who had a 1/4 scale pits go into the croud and kill someone at a show, He was liable till it was discovered that it was radio failure. If it had been a build quality issue, he would have been done for Man Slaughter! You will need to add a firewall between the turbine and the landing gear bay, if you don't you will melt the air lines. I'll post some pics later. David |
RE: Cermark F16
I replaced the elevator clevis with a Hayes unit as the pin fit much better inside the aluminum elevator horns.
As for the tanks, they swell up when being filled. In time, the constant flexing causes the fibreglass to crack near the seam. the cure is to wrap a length of 007 x 1/4 carbon fibre tape (available from many suppliers) around the seam, and epoxy over it. That will stop the flexing and the leaks.... For the rudder link.....slide a length of white heat shrink over it...it blends right in... Nice looking pilot...where did you get it(him) ???? |
RE: Cermark F16
Hi Dennis,
we have a F-16 JETLEGEND ( very, very nice plane ), but, I saw my friend Pablo from Miami fly the F-16 Cermark, I think very good plane, low cost, easy to build, and easy to fly with RAM500 ( this is the turbine that Pablo uses when I saw ), the transmitter used in the F-16 was a FUTABA 6 CH 2.4 FAAST!!! few jets allow to only use 6 chanels, mainly scales!!! In my opinion is a very good plane cost / benefit. I hope help you with your purchase. regards jose [8D] |
RE: Cermark F16
Wayne, you got a pic of the tanks after the mod ?
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RE: Cermark F16
Not at the moment, but I have to pull the tanks out this weekend, so I will take a few shots....
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RE: Cermark F16
1 Attachment(s)
Well I have got the retract mains in. It is a lot easier at this point if you take out the jet tube that has been rattleing about in the fus for ages. I just bent the fixing lugs and out she came. Ther has been a lot of critism of this pipe but it again looks ok to me it is twin walled with an intake lip so perhaps this has been upgraded as well.
Also attached is a pic of the inlety that someone asked for a while back Dennis www.densplanes.co.uk |
RE: Cermark F16
1 Attachment(s)
Enlarge the nose wheel hole
I also thought it was a good idea to enlarge the hole in the fiberglass fuz that the nosewheel retracts into as it had a tendancy to snag on parts of the fiberglass. You only need to carefully dremmel a small amout off but I am sure this will pay dividends Dennis www.densplanes.co.uk |
RE: Cermark F16
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Retract Valve
The kit supplied retracts come with a nice little retract mount and valve and to my surprise air restrictors are also supplied which is a nice touch. Here is a pic of the supplied laser cut mount and valve Dennis |
RE: Cermark F16
Whats the problem with the tail pipe ?
Ours has always been perfect.. |
RE: Cermark F16
unless they've improved them, they are (at least mine was) Heavy
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RE: Cermark F16
1 Attachment(s)
Got the Undercarriage all in and brakes working as well as the stearable nose wheel today so not a bad days work....... I wish Wren would give you a little more wire on the engine would make placing the ECU a lot easier.
Dennis |
RE: Cermark F16
Where are you going to put the UAT since you now have servos in the hole meant for the UAT bottle ???
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RE: Cermark F16
ORIGINAL: Wayne22 I replaced the elevator clevis with a Hayes unit as the pin fit much better inside the aluminum elevator horns. As for the tanks, they swell up when being filled. In time, the constant flexing causes the fibreglass to crack near the seam. the cure is to wrap a length of 007 x 1/4 carbon fibre tape (available from many suppliers) around the seam, and epoxy over it. That will stop the flexing and the leaks.... For the rudder link.....slide a length of white heat shrink over it...it blends right in... Nice looking pilot...where did you get it(him) ???? He is a little big, but he will just go in, We will however have to remove his body and fill his sute with fluff! Looks great, and was £20! Cant argue with that, It would have been rude not to jave bought him! |
RE: Cermark F16
ORIGINAL: Wayne22 Where are you going to put the UAT since you now have servos in the hole meant for the UAT bottle ??? Dennis |
RE: Cermark F16
1 Attachment(s)
Knicker elastic
I was having problems with the steering wires snagging the front wheel so needed to have somthing to hold the wires back I therefore used knicker elastic that seems to work fine and keeps the wires away from the wheel I also glued two small pieces of wood to the front wheel mount to centre the wheel as it retracts..... |
RE: Cermark F16
Need more Channels
Well I had worked it all out to get her in the air on my DX7 and was ok with the 7 channels then I realised that if I Y leaded the rudder I would have the wheel turning left when the rudder was turning her right..... Not a good Idea. I then found a nice 13 KG MG Cirus servo and hey Presto it is worked opposite to Hi tec...... That sorted my problem Dennis |
RE: Cermark F16
1 Attachment(s)
Rudder
The space for the rudder servo is very shallow I therefore decided to go for a HS125 mg thin wing servo..... You are supplied with a nice little plywood U bracket to mount it and all you have to do is shave down one side as the instructions. Gonna use 3 mm rod again for the linkage. The pushrod and clevises in the kit are very poor and this is where a few pence is worh spending. As you know I like to use the hardware supplied where possible but this upgrade only cost me £3.00 for the aileron and rudder connectors and is well worth it Dennis www.densplanes.co.uk |
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