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RE: Glassing Techniques?
Terry,
Could you use peel ply rather than the polyester cloth? Roger |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
Hi,
Just ordered my West Systems kit from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. Thanks, guys! Now I've got to test this method out on something before I use it on my customer's jet! |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
I don't think this technique has been covered here so I'll give my 2cents. The applicator I now ues is a small roller for most large surfaces. Doesn't matter which epoxy (although I like EZ Lam) you use. The technique is the same as painting a wall. Very small rollers can be bought off the net or you can use the small foam ones from Home depot , Lowe's etc. The advantages are two fold.. first the epoxy is put on evenly on the surface and little is used. Second it levels so smooth that you barley sand at all. Just another method do try.
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RE: Glassing Techniques?
Covered my last JHH F-4 surfaces with West System epoxy which I bought from local West marine outlet. You also need to buy the pump to ratio & dispense the resin & hardener (not equal volume). I diluted with about 30-40% denatured alcohol, which makes it really easy to spread & not have any excess resin & very little added weight. West system epoxy has a longer set time than the 30-min variety, so one does not have to hurry with the job. Best to use the paper cups from West with the wider mouth, as this leaves a shallower the mix that dissipates heat; which otherwise can accelerate its setting. Have fun
Phil |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
ORIGINAL: Roger M Terry, Could you use peel ply rather than the polyester cloth? Roger |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
I use West Systems applied with a small foam paint roller.
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RE: Glassing Techniques?
I roll TP over the surface after each application of resin. The TP soaks up the excess very well and helps to minimize sanding. Just remember to keep removing the top layer so you always have a fresh sheet on the top of the roll.
Mark |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
Mark give up the Toilet paper and save it for "important" work lol. The paint rollers work much better.
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RE: Glassing Techniques?
Paint roller on - cheap TP off.
BTW, I don't use the cheap stuff for the "important" work. [sm=lol.gif] |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
1 Attachment(s)
This methods works well.
Final sand surface with 400 dry. Remove all dust and the go over surface with a tack rag. Spray a light coat of flat lacquer (rattle cans work great) over entire surface. When dry ( almost immediately), lightly dry sand again with 400 paper dry. Again remove dust and tack surface. Apply glass cloth and resin of your choice just enough to penetrate the glass and leave a dull surface. Let this dry completely. The lacquered surface will prevent over penetration of the epoxy into the surface. Next apply Transtar Epoxy surfacer either by brush, roller or spray. 1 to 2 wet coats. let dry overnight. Rough sand with 320 dry and the 600 wet. Nice filled and primer surface with minimum weight gain. |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
I use the Z-poxy thinned about 60:40 with alcohol, apllied with abruch starting at the center moving out to the edges. After I let it sit for a few minutes, I blot the surface with a paper towel careful not to lift the cloth, if you rub lightly with the paper towel from the center outwards it will make sure you have removed any "bubbles" and will also dry the cloth to a point where you can almost touch it and it feels dry. I always thought the idea was to bind the cloth to the underlying wood, which gives it strength and also prevent the cloth from coming up. I have used this method successfully and it very easy. The Z-poxy is ready to sand in 18-24 hours and there is no need for a second coat, only filler (red putty thined with acetone) brushed on and sanded and you are ready for primer.
I have not tried the West systems but hear it is just as good. For me the paper towel works wonders for keeping it light and easy to sand. Tommy |
RE: Glassing Techniques?
I agree with DocYates. The resulting monoque glass envelope is relatively much stronger than the balsa substrate, but needs to bind to the balsa to maintain its shape for strength. Incidentally, the West system is a laminating epoxy & significantly lower viscosity to begin with, so with the 60:40 alcohol dilution, is relatively easy to avoid excess epoxy.
Further to my post earlier, the West system will still heat up while in the paper cup (sandae size?), so needs to be poured to the middle of the glass surface & avoid exothermal heat build-up. Then it does not begin to set until the alcohol has flashed off. After allowing a day or 2 to fully set, I sand it down lightly with new 220-grit paper on long block, just enough to remove the surface bumps without cutting into the glass. One can feel a much smoother surface after a few passes with the sanding block. For filling the web, I follow this with a layer of epoxy mixed 50:50 by volume with micro-balloon & appropriately thinned with alcohol, since strength here is no longer the objective. Another light sanding & its ready for primer. Don't forget the blue gloves & dust mask when sanding. These are nasty stuff to come in contact with.[:o] Phil |
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