Hi,

I know everyone has their preferred method. I've been using Z-Poxy 2-part resin for years with good results. Recently, someone told me that they had more luck with polyester-based systems, and that the squeegee method worked better than the paintbrush method (used with thinned epoxies). What methods/products are those of you that still build using? Why?

I use Z-Poxy straight up, not thinned. Squeeqee it with an old credit card or playing card until no shiny spots are visable. Add a fill coat of resin (again, straight up), and squeegee everything that does not fill the weave.

Personally, I brush prime with a 2 pack primer, and sand all that does not fill remaining weave that I missed with the resin.
Spray prime, wet sand, and call it a day.

Jeff

Hi Shaun,

I've become a firm believer in Aerospace Composites EZ Lam epoxy. 2:1 mix ratio thinned with alcohol. The directions for the product say to thin 50% but I don't use near that much. Very low viscosity to start with in my opinion. The stuff goes on great with a brush still using the playing cards to squeegie the excess out. You can get 30 min or 60 min tack time hardener - I've been using the 30 min. Plenty of time to work with and the stuff goes a long way. I used to use Z-Poxy with good results but with this epoxy the next day it has NO tackiness to it whatsoever. Dry as a bone. Has made me a much better glasser than I used to be. The Hornet wings look unbelievably smooth compared to the stabs that I did with Z-Poxy.

Dan

BTW, The Phantom kit looks great. Can't say enough what you did for me.

The lightest method and the easiest, to great qualities! That would be Z-Poxy thinned about 40 percent with denatured alcohol. With this method there is absolutely no excess resin, you don’t have to scrape anything off, so you don’t get resin all over yourself and your shop.

To fill the weave of the cloth the biggest mistake you can do is fill it with another coat of epoxy, not only is this extremely heavy, it is also a lot of work to sand it off. I mix acetone with auto body spot putty to a consistency just a little thicker than milk. Brush this on to fill the weave, it is very light weight, it sands off extremely easy and you can sand it down to the level of the cloth (most is sanded off) and it fills the weave perfectly.

Next add your favorite primer and sand most of that off and you’re done. The point is, the putty and primer sand very easily so it is easy to go down to the cloth without harming it. Trying to sand resin off is labor intensive and you are always in danger of sanding too much off.

I am a previous user of Z-poxy. But now all I uses is West systems with the same principles, IMO this is the best stuff on the market.

West Systems[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Kevin

I used to thin with alcohol, but found it soaks into the balsa and adds weight. The aim of the first coat is to glue the glass to the surface. The second coat of resin/primer fills the weave. 90 percent of the second coat get sanded away reguardless.

Kevin,

What's ur application technique with the West Systems? I've been hearing about it for years, but I don't know anything about it.

Go to my web site and read my system.......Almost no SANDING...Lightest way to do it...IMO

Terry, I'd like to read up on it, what web site is that please?

West Systems is the bomb!!

http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html

Thanks Ben....................

What weight polyester do you use or is it "about right/silk feeling, tight weave light"?

Also, have you had much of any problems lifting off cured glass other than just once in a while?

I like the method - mimics vacuum bagging with a release film - very clever!

What have you used it on?

The polyester cloth I use is about like your significant other's silk scarf.........Color doesn't matter, Ha Ha

It will not peel up as long as you leave enough excess to get a good grip on when peeling it up.

Yes almost the same as vacumm bagging, I did this because if you ever tried to vacumm bag a built up structure, It gets squashed between the ribs, NOT GOOD!

Terry,

VERY interesting. Can you be any more specific about the polyester cloth? With my luck, I'd surely buy the one type that sticks to epoxy wonderfully.....

How much pulling pressure are you typically using? How hard do you have to pull? Have you done this on large surfaces (like the size of the wing on a Yellow F-18 Twin?

Iv'e used the old K&B Superpoxy Polyester resin for years. I did these models, the Cessna is all Balsa TF Kit. and the F-18 is an old DCU f-18 kit, Balsa wings and stab with polyester. They were built in the early 90's. Pix taken today.
I always used 1 layer of 2 oz cloth. so it was less likely to dent. Also with poly, you can do 2 or 3 coats in a single day. Because it drys in 45 minutes sandable. I have an Oven
large enough to get an entire plane in.

Just be sure it is polyester, trust me epoxy will not stick. If you get too much epoxy on it my be hard to pull free, as the thickness of the epoxy on top will make it stiff. I am frugal with the epoxy.................. The hardest part is getting it started to peel. Once it starts, it comes loose easier.

If you have any doubts, do a sample layup on a piece of junk lumber. Once you try it you wont go back to the toilet paper method.

Oh, wear rubber gloves when using epoxy of any brand. I work with epoxy every day and I go through 10 to 20 pair a day.

I used this method on my Ziroli Panther wings and tail surfaces. I added carbon fiber Vail under the 3/4 oz glass cloth, made the wings bullit proof!

Terry: Off topic... What Scale is the Corvette? It Rocks...

1/4 scale, for Connely V-8.

Its feeekin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So,

Which West Systems setup (hardener) is best for glassing wings? Where's the best-priced source for it? Have any of you used it with thinners like acetone? Thanks.

aircraft spruce and supply has good "kit" prices for west systems

i think i am still partial to the EZ-Lam

Don't use Acetone with West's. I use the base 105 and the 206 hardener. Works great. About an hour working time. Tacky out to about 2 to 2.5 hours. Trim it while green at the 7-8 hour mark, at which point you can work with it as well, such as sanding, etc. Reaches max hardness in 4-5 days.

Lance