Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

LMAO!!!!!! hey Roger, all the begging to airbrush her might irritate her more than the paint will ;) LOL

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

STAGE 5: airbrushing


Ok, so, here is the airbrushing portion, first a few things to do before we start though.


1. First, if you cleared like I did, we need to sand that out. I sanded mine wet with 1200 grit paper. You don't need perfect flat, but what we want to do, is have a bite for the new paint, as well as knock off any dust marks of flaws that might have been in there. Sand it to a nice even dull finish. sucks to ruin that nice shine, but it will be back :D

2. Now we can prepare our masks. What I did, was for the "Hotcat", the only part I needed to mask, was the outline of the woman. I first drew her on CAD so I could adjust the size....

http://crcja.org/faq/33658Cad_drawing.jpg

3. Then print it out, and cut out your outline.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658printout.jpg
http://crcja.org/faq/33658cutout.jpg


4. Then, I trace that outline, onto a piece of transfer tape (sign shops have this for transfering vinyl onto signs. It is a paper with an adhesive backing, low tack.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658maskj.jpg

5. Now we can start to spray, here is the gun I used for this job, it is an Iwata gravity feed dual action airbrush.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658airbrush.jpg

continued.......
 

6. Now, with white, I carefully fade in the edge on the inside of the mask.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658masked_girl.jpg

then you can remove the mask.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658outline.jpg

7. Now I freehand the rest of the white in place, I don't really know how to write about this, and since I can't take pic's and spray at the same time, all I'll say is, take your time, use smooth flowing streaks, and practice on something besides your model to get used to the airbrush :)

http://crcja.org/faq/33658white.jpg

8. Next I added some lightning. Lighting is very easy to do, it's all freehand, and all you have to do, is set your airbrush to a very fine spray pattern, with the dual action gun it's trickier because you set your line width by pulling back on the button, but this also allows you to adjust the pattern while spraying which is really nice for the flames. For lighting, just use a jerky motion, and you can see the pattern being applied as you spray.

For all of this, I keep my paint quite thin, and spray around 30psi, put the coats on light, it might take multiple coats, but keep it light or it will spider on you.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658lightning.jpg

9. Now, I add color, Yellow first (basically, the color applies fairly transparent, so you try to do all your toning with the white)

http://crcja.org/faq/33658yellow.jpg

continued again......
 

10. Next, working the same way as the yellow, I added green and blue. I talked with Dean, the "Hotcat's" owner, and we decided putting red onto those background colors would look bad, so we used the greens and blues instead. Then I highlighted with some white and yellow again.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658flames_complete.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658girl_close.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658girl_close_2.jpg


Well, that's it for now, tomorrow I'll look at it, decide if I need to add anything, or fix anything, and I'll do a seal clear again in preparation for decals :)

If you have any questions, please just ask!

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

DRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOOOOOL! Do you do custom painting for people? You are incredible man. Hats off

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

hehhe, thank you for the kind words. In answer to your question, well, sure, that's what this canopy is, I build guitars for a living, but, painting airplanes is much the same :D

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

STAGE 6: Pearl clear


Ok, I just finished spraying my pearl clear. I wanted to clear the body with a gold pearl to bring out the flames. It also makes the irridescent paints look even more sparkley.

1. Ok, the first thing I did today, was blank out and respray the face on the woman. I've never tried doing a human figure before this project and I learned that faces are REALLY HARD!!!! so, I blanked out her face in white, and redid it all, I'm far happier now. I went over the whole thing, and tightened up some of the yellows as well.

2. Once that had all cured, it was time to clear. I sprayed the Dominion clear again but this time added a gold pearl powder, you can get this at any automotive paint store. I mixed about 20oz of clear, and you use about a fingernails worth of pearl powder in there. Mix it into your clear, and leave it for the 30 minute induction period. When you are ready to spray, give it a quick stir again as the powder will settle.

3. Again, I started with all the area's I tend to forget, perimeters, inlets etc. Then I sprayed on a light dust coat. (The Poly Urethane is generally pretty forgiving with all brands of paint, but I know that the Enamels I sprayed for the flames can wrinkle with a top coat. So, just dust on the first coat. Let this stand for 25 minutes.

4. Next, put on a wet coat, using the exact same spraying method as when we sealed the base colors, do it in 4 quarters always overlapping.

I only put on the dust coat and one wet coat because with the Pearl, the more clear you add, the heavier the pearl will look. Also, this is not my final clear, I'm now ready to add decals and it also doesn't put a large amount of clear over the detail, so if I should want to spray something else, it doesn't look like I have a layer of clear in between.

Once the decals are on, I'll mask and spray the inside of the canopy (just so it looks nicer inside) and then I'll spray my final clear, probably 3 good coats. Then I will go to polishing the final clear :D

http://crcja.org/faq/33658cleared_airbrushing.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658cleared_airbrushing_2.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658cleared_airbrushing_3.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658cleared_airbrushing_4.jpg

This picture shows the pearl in the clear, and some of the flame detailing.

http://crcja.org/faq/33658detail.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658clear_side_shot.jpg

Probaby be a couple days before the next installment, so take this time to re-read and ask any questions you might have :D

Jeremy

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Well I talked with Dean, and it was decided to not put any decals on the "Hotcat" as they would cover up the airbrushing, so, today I will spray the final clear :D

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Please sign me up, I am about to embark into the world of airbrushing! I need to know , I have to know, because basically I really don't know. That is what makes your offer so great. Helping the blind see!.

GRIN

WAyne

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Jeremy, what guitars do you build for a living?

I really like how you made that canopy man! Its very nice... somday when I need a airbrush scheme I'll be calling you.

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

At the risk of it appearing as spam (I hope it's not, this isn't a guitar site so, hopefully this is ok) check out my website at [link=http://www.lgmguitars.com]LGM Guitars[/link] there is some cool airbrushing and finishing on there too, as well as inlays, and full guitars :D

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

STAGE 7: final clear and polishing...


Ok, I won't have pictures until tomorrow, but here is the second last stage. Final Clear and polishing out the clear...

1. Ok, we've sprayed our Pearl Clear on the model, if you have any runs, or BIG imperfections, sand them out, and spray a light coat of pearl clear on again. Once you have a clear you are pretty pleased with, it's time to spray the final clear.
I sprayed 2 good wet coats of final clear on the "Hotcat". Exactly the same spraying methods as before were used. Sprayed in quarters.

2. If you spray out your first coat of final clear, and after 25 minutes, it doesn't look like it's flowed out nicely, then go ahead and add a bit more reducer to your clear, maybe 10%. But be careful, it will be more apt to run now.

3. Ok, now the fun part, polishing. I'll take pictures of what I used, but I can't take pics while I'm working, so I'll explain in detail again.

4. After your paint has cured (with poly's after 24 hours is fine to start polishing) you need to look over the finish. If for some reason your finish is very rough, you might want to start with 1000 grit. Resist the urge to use 600 or 400, you'll regret it later.

5. I started with 2000 grit (if you started with 1000, then just do the same thing as I did here but starting with 1000, then 1200, 1500, and 1800, until you hit the 2000, the trick is, take out all the previous grit scratches with the next grit)

Start with a block, I use a hard foam block from a company called Micro Mesh. I also use Micro Cut sandpaper, I find I get less heavy scratches with that then say 3M. It's a little more money, but well worth it IMO. I wrap the Micro cut around this foam block, and start to sand the model, everything in one direction, and resist the urge to go in circles, go in all the same direction. If you have some heavy dust spots, concentrate on those with the paper backed by a block of wood or something hard until it's flush with the rest of the clear. If you started with 1000, then when you go to the 1200, go 90* to the 1000, then, go 45* to the 1200 with the 1500, when you go to the 1800, go 90* to the 1500. Then go back and forth with the 2000.
Your sanding pattern should look something like this

1000 ----- 1200 | 1500 \ 1800 / 2000 ------


by this time, you should be reasonably smooth. I still have a tiny bit of ripple in the "Hotcat" but there is a bit of a trade off between perfect smooth, and excessive amounts of clear, you have to look pretty hard to see the ripple anyway.

Here are pics of the compounds etc I used and how I clamped my drill, neanderthal I know, but it works 100% :D

http://crcja.org/faq/33658supplies.jpg

6. Now, you have a couple options, you can continue wet sanding with finer grits, I did, I continued with Micro Mesh paper up to 12,000 grit. Then I switched to compounds. If you continue with the paper, once you pass the 2000 grit, keep sanding everything in the same direction. Remember, sand all the previous scratches out with each grit.

7. Now, you will have a VERY clear finish by now, but, we can make it even better.

First, I started with coarse polishing compound. I use a foam pad in an electric drill clamped to my workbench. It turns about 1500 rpm, this is a good speed, but be careful on edges or you'll burn through very quick.

Do the entire model, trying to keep all the motion of the body in the same direction as well. When you are done, wipe all the extra compound off with a soft cloth. Then continue with Medium grit, and then fine grit, and then swirl remover. when you use the swirl remover, don't use to much pressure, you want it to really just buff the finish.

8. Now take a damp cloth, and wipe all the extra compound or crud off of there. Then, I take a good instrument polish (furniture polish would work too) and just polish the surface, then, stand back, and admire your work!

Here are some pics of the finished polish job :D


http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_1.jpg

The flecks you see in this pic are the pearl clears, they clear itself is dead smooth.
http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_2.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_3.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_4.jpg




You might be wondering what the final step could be, well, basically, it's just spraying the inside of the model if you want, and really, you could do it anytime after the clear is done. Anyway, I'll do a quick piece on that, and we're pretty well done, I'll get new pics up ASAP, and until then, if you have questions, please ask :D

Jeremy

continued pics.....
 

http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_5.jpg

http://crcja.org/faq/33658hotcat_7.jpg

Here is a link to a High Res (402kb 1600 x 1200 pixel) image

Hotcat fuse

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

now, a question for the admin, I've used up all my gallery space on RCU, if you want to keep the tutorial, could the pics be uploaded to somewhere else? or can I just open a second account for the picture memory? please and thank you

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Solved your Problem Check your Mail


Turbulence

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

WOW!

NICE JOB!
 

Love your graphics.

Todd

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Thank you very much Turbulence, I have another small problem, check your email please :D

Jeremy

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Ok, here are some links to the compounds and sand papers I use, you can order them from Stewart Macdonald, it's a musical instrument site, but I really like the polishing compounds they sell, and the micro cut papers.

Polishing compounds


Finesse polishing pads


Micro cut paper

Micro Mesh

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

I would like to take the opportunity to thank Jeremy for the amazing work he did on our JetCat USA HotCat canopy. Jeremy has done some great work for us in the past and his enthusiasm and committment to quality work needs to be seen in real life to be fully appreciated. We plan on showing his work at helicopter and jet events on the West coast this year and have already discussed future projects!

See you all at the events

Dean Wichmann
www.helijet.ca

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Youll have it at JOW right? And your sabre? :D

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

I run my own webservers here at my office, would some free webspace work? I don't know how to get it off here and on my server though, if someone knows how to do this, let me know.

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Dean,

Thank you for the kind words, this project has been a welcomed change of pace from guitars, I've really enjoyed it!

Sean,

Turbulence has graciously offered to host the pictures on his site for me, I just have to get to them and change my [img] tags in the tutorial. Thank you very much for your offer as well :D


Jeremy

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Ok, I know it's been a while, but I've been really busy with guitar stuff that got set aside to finish the "Hotcat"

However, I should hopefully get the final installment done tomorrow for all of you! :D
Hope you've enjoyed this little tutorial :D
Jeremy

Painting Tutorial, Hotcat completed!!!
 

Here is a question I was just asked that I think is relevant to "finishing" so I've copy and pasted here so everyone could see.



Cooper,
First, thank you for the kind words, it's appreciated!
As for your canopy, you could buff it out, however, if you try that, remember that it will look worse before it looks better. I would use that as a second resort though, first take a look at this thread Future floor wax canopies If that doesn't give you the desired effect, then buff it out. Use the same method as polishing out the clear paint. But you'll have to do the entire canopy or you'll have one spot that looks much clearer than the rest. The other thing to keep in mind, is use a lower speed when buffing if using a wheel or you'll get the canopy to warm and possibly distort it.

Most canopies are butyrate or lexan, paints and clears don't generally stick that well, I think spraying it with a clear might not work well for you. And, as you've found, it doesn't exactly flow out perfectly, so you'd probably end up needing to buff it all out anyway. I would try the future first, then try buffing.
Hope that helps.

Jeremyy