Hey everyone,

Based on the Acrylic Enamel post that was made, I was thinking, I'd do a basic painting tutorial if there is enough interest, I am spraying stuff every other day. It might not be on a Jet, it would either be a guitar body, or a Heli canopy I'm working on for a friend.

Basically, I could take it from prep before prime, through some basic base coat hints, some airbrushing, and finally clear coating and polishing.

If you are interested, please post here and let me know, my time is limited, but I'd be more than happy to do this if there is enough interest.

Jeremy

ME! ME!

It's always interesting to see other people's techniques.

Jeremy,
Sign me up!
Sparky

Count me in

You bet I am all eye's.

Oh great, just when I finish painting and clean the gun for the last time, along comes the instructions.
Would like to see your methods.

Thanks to Steven Ellzey and David Reid for their help in my first painting endeavor with automotive paint.
Also thanks to Joey Tamez for his advice on buffing.
BTW - my paint job came out pretty good, I think

Definitely interested in seeing someone do it who knows their stuff.

Well, so far looks like there is a good amount of interest

Bring it on!

Jeremy

Pls. keep me posted!

Brgds Thomas

pencil me in....i am all ears......errr eyes

Please include advice on keeping the brush from becoming clogged!!!! Also, how many different sized brush tips do you use? And what do you use for applying clear-coat? For poor slobs, is there an economical way to paint a jet? In other words, can one airbrush do everything, including spraying the clear-coat? What product(s) do you use to clean the airbrush?

Thanks for starting this topic Jeremy. Above are newbie-type questions. If you can touch upon any of those aspects, that'd be great. I'm still too chicken to use anything but water-base paints at this point.

Steve

I would love to see some information about your painting. I also do some airbrushing. What type of clear coat do you use that will not cause the createx airbrush paint to run? Or are you using the Auto Air paints?

The Createx paint is water based and does not seem to be adversely affected by auto clears. I used it on my Super Reaper and will use it again on my Stingray. I would love to know how Jeremy uses it for fine details like on his amazing Excocet.

Hey Jer,

Post some more pics of your plane in this thread !

Jeremy,

Thank you! Count me in as well.

Mark

I've got some experience on this and "Doc Martin's" (I think that's the name of them or "P.H. Martin's") for metal works better for a water-based acrylic enamel. Both clear coat well enough, it's just that the Createx is like spraying elmer's glue and doesn't reduce very well, even with their special additives. It can be made to work if you dial the pressure way up (I've tried it through all three of my Iwata's and my Paache-the cheapy Paache works better because of the big orifice).

Why not just get House of Kolor urethanes? You can get small amounts (1 or 2 ounce), but they're a little more expensive. They also spray fantastic.

I've never had any problem reducing createx, it reduces with water. The only problem for really fine detail work with it, is it dries on the tip to fast, causing clogging. I've never had createx run when you put clear on it, if that's happening you're putting the clear on way to heavy I would say, also, I've never sprayed a water based clear on it either, only solvent based. Anyway, I'll post all the tools/materials I use when I do this, I should probably be starting on it today

More pics of the Exocet, ok, I'll post them here for you

That's the problem I get is the tip-drying and having to dial in too much pressure (blows under masking, etc.). It's ok for big areas, but like you've stated, miserable when you're trying to detail without masking. Unless you got some more tips on how to apply it (I've got a ton of it) It's going to sit in shoe boxes. I've cleared over it with absolutley no problems-dust coat, light wet then heavy wet -urethane clear also (PPG Omni).

Makes me wonder how Createx gets all that great looking advertisements. I've got to use a VL-Pro airbrush with largest needle/nozzle to get the stuff through and atomize properly; luckily it's got a "paint-picker" nozzle.

Great job by the way-I like the incorporation of elements and color selections. I was curious about visibility at distance with the choice of colors. How does such a paint scheme present itself in the air? Did you get the lightning with torn paper/cardboard or freehand (looks free-hand)? What enamel?

chuck,

First of all, for very fine detail work, the trick is, you have to use VERY thin paint and VERY low air pressure. I use about 10 - 15psi for fine detail work. The createx will work if you use their retarder, but I still dont' like it as much. I find the best paint for the really fine work is Testors enamel. The only thing you need to be careful of when using that, is that you have to put your first clear coats on very light or it will wrinkle. I have done jackets with all createx paints though, fine work, and it's possible, I just don't like it that much.

As for the lightning, it's all done freehand with a Paasche H model airbrush. With the right paint consistency and air pressure, lines of 1/32" are possible with the #1 tip.

Hi Jeremy:
My goodness you can sure paint. Count me in please. [email protected]

Dave R

That's kind of what I suspected. For my fine detail, I've been real happy with House of Kolor (get he 1 ounce bottles from Coast) and either an Iwata SBS or HP-B. But amazingly, like you've aluded to, those "cheaper" Paasche's aren't too bad. Just wish the Createx could be sprayed down at 10-15 psi. I'm having to gow up to 30-35 with the #3 needle to get it to flow and at that rate it's impossible for detail (for me at least). Any other tips on the Createx would be welcomed by all I imagine as you can almost spray the stuff indoors.

Guess it's time for me to shut up and paint.

Ok, I've just talked to my friend, and the painting tutorial will be happening on a Jetcat USA "Hotcat" canopy.

I'll basically be starting from the primer stage (assuming most know what to do with fiberglass for prepping) spraying overall base coat, some basic airbrush techniques, up through clear coating and polishing.
I don't think I'll put it up piece by piece, more likely I'll wait until it's done and do the whole tutorial at once.

If there is a SPECIFIC question you have, let me know (ie: priming techniques, what to use for body fillers, etc)

I'll try to cover it all as best I can.

Paints used will include:

Createx airbrush paints,
Testors model enamel
RM Diamont Poly Urethane

I'll probably be spraying primer and base coat tomorrow

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy:
I have some personal questions and would like your email. The reason I ask is because of the prep to paint.

Thanks, Dave R [email protected]

I am very interested in how to do what you do with that airbrush. you obviously have the artistic talent to be able to do what you do. I can barely draw a straight line with out a ruler. I have been told that I am a master of the Dremel. I guess we all have our individual talents. But if you have some tips for all of us who made a D- in art class in school because we kept breaking or throwing our crayons, I would be interested. By the way I could not color within the lines either. So now you see who you are dealing with, when it comes to artistic talent.

Doug A

As Bob Price would say " Its unbelievable, just unbelievable"