What do I need ???
#1
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What do I need ???
Does the T-maxx 2.5 have a slide or rotery carb? Im thinking of putting in the o.s. .15cv-rx/w10 and am wondering what I will have to change on my max. Will the easy start work on the o.s. and what will I need for header and pipe or anything else I might need. Does anyone have this motor?how does it compare to a2.5?? :boxing:
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What do I need ???
that green writing just gave me a mean headache! lol
the 2.5 is a slide carb. the os is a rotary but is available with a slide you will have to use the old e z start and khb adapter.
slide carbs are the best you can get. on or off road. slides are smoother and offer more top end. all, ALL .21 and above use slide carbs. and they are used off road quite regularly if you have not noticed.
bubbafien
the 2.5 is a slide carb. the os is a rotary but is available with a slide you will have to use the old e z start and khb adapter.
slide carbs are the best you can get. on or off road. slides are smoother and offer more top end. all, ALL .21 and above use slide carbs. and they are used off road quite regularly if you have not noticed.
bubbafien
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Thanks for the info . Iwas wondering also what kind of exhaust I would need and how does this motor stack up towards a 2.5
#10
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After see'ing both run stock, i dont believe the traxxas stats. I think they are abit hyped, probably as part as thier advertising. I think the 2.5 and the CV-R are very comparable in power. With the OS being alot more reliable and alot less temperamental
I put a CV-R(x) 15 in mine awhile back. has alot more compression than my buddies freshly rebuilt 2.5 . I had no real problems keeping up besides running way rich because the OS head sucked. If you get the OS, Buy the Crazy Nut head. Well worth the $55 shipped. He already had a CRAZY nut head running lean on his. Waiting for my head to get here. Now i can show that 2.5 who the real boss is
Also i stuck with the rotory carb, it seems to have alot more mid range control. Rather than the Snappy on/off of the slide carb.
Get yourself a good pipe. The stock traxxas pipe seemed to suck with the OS. I just went with an AE torque Pipe. Have yet to run it. But thats what i was told to get for the OS motor from other OS drivers.
Oh yeah the CV-R(x) (short shaft) is a direct bolt in minus having to cut the shaft. You can use a die Grinder with a cut off disc. Or you can ask the hobby shop to do it for you in some cases.
I will post a pic of mine next week when i finish putting it together. Waiting for my new RPM arms.
Just my 2 cents.
I put a CV-R(x) 15 in mine awhile back. has alot more compression than my buddies freshly rebuilt 2.5 . I had no real problems keeping up besides running way rich because the OS head sucked. If you get the OS, Buy the Crazy Nut head. Well worth the $55 shipped. He already had a CRAZY nut head running lean on his. Waiting for my head to get here. Now i can show that 2.5 who the real boss is
Also i stuck with the rotory carb, it seems to have alot more mid range control. Rather than the Snappy on/off of the slide carb.
Get yourself a good pipe. The stock traxxas pipe seemed to suck with the OS. I just went with an AE torque Pipe. Have yet to run it. But thats what i was told to get for the OS motor from other OS drivers.
Oh yeah the CV-R(x) (short shaft) is a direct bolt in minus having to cut the shaft. You can use a die Grinder with a cut off disc. Or you can ask the hobby shop to do it for you in some cases.
I will post a pic of mine next week when i finish putting it together. Waiting for my new RPM arms.
Just my 2 cents.
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What do I need ???
I am not to familiar with doing motor changes but a friend of mine has been racing for awhile.He was wondering what you did with the clutch nut and all that stuff because he figures on the 2.5 it is all one piece.
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The 2.5 has a different header. You will need to get a side mount exhaust header. I replaced an original pro .15 on mine. Which was a direct drop in.
Im drawing a blank on the 2.5, i need to look at a friends. I believe the clutch assembly is the same on the 2.5 (almost positive) .
Pull your c-clip, Off will come your clutch bell, Then you pull your shoes and spring, Then im fuzzy here but i believe the clutch bell shaft/nut holds on your flywheel. The flywheel is a tapered fit on the shaft off your motor, Pressed on by the clutch bell shaft/nut.
The shaft/nut is only like 3/16 deep maybe a tad more( the shaft is longer, but the nut on the end of the shaft) . Hence the need to cut the shaft down on the new motor. When you break it down and compare it, you will see it clearly.
Hope that wasnt to confusing, cuz i think i am now lol :stupid:
Ignore my typo's i hunt and peck real fast :
Im drawing a blank on the 2.5, i need to look at a friends. I believe the clutch assembly is the same on the 2.5 (almost positive) .
Pull your c-clip, Off will come your clutch bell, Then you pull your shoes and spring, Then im fuzzy here but i believe the clutch bell shaft/nut holds on your flywheel. The flywheel is a tapered fit on the shaft off your motor, Pressed on by the clutch bell shaft/nut.
The shaft/nut is only like 3/16 deep maybe a tad more( the shaft is longer, but the nut on the end of the shaft) . Hence the need to cut the shaft down on the new motor. When you break it down and compare it, you will see it clearly.
Hope that wasnt to confusing, cuz i think i am now lol :stupid:
Ignore my typo's i hunt and peck real fast :
#13
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Thanks alot that helped.Were did you rder that crazynut head from?Is it a .15 head or just a cv head that works on .12 aswell as .15
P.s. I would love to see pictures of your truck!
P.s. I would love to see pictures of your truck!
#14
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Its $55 US shipped from Crazy Nut. The .12 heads are different so dont confuse them.
crazy nut racing CV/cvr .15 head
crazy nut racing CV/cvr .15 head