I have broken in the MGT and have it tuned pretty close... still a little fat, since I dont have a temp gun yet.

I just put on the Integy MSR4 shocks with 50wt. AE oil and they actually seem softer with the red springs than the stock with the blue did.

I also put on RPM A-arms all the way around and my castor/camber/toe seems to be all wrong now. I'm sure I could get it closer by eye, but wondering if there is a propper way to dial in the setup.

When I got the truck the rears were toed in quite a bit, but I figured thats the way it should be. According to AE's setup guid online it says standard rear toe is 1* and race setup is 0*. If I understand this correctly, I think the rear toe helps keep the truck from spinning... or tightens the rear.

I also added the fuel tubing for the brake... but that seems like almost too much brake now.

And I moved the battery from battery slot to the Auxilery slot, for more power. I read it bumps me up from 4.8v to 6.0v The problem is that it drains VERY fast like that.

AE also says to change from the 15 tooth to a 17 tooth for racing.

Can any of you comment on the above items?

Thanx,
Matt

I am running the 50 wt. shock oil in the stock GT shocks with the red springs and like it much better than the stock spring/shock oil combo.

If you have too much brakes with the fuel tubing you coulc try shaving a little of the length of the tubing.

As far as toe in on the rear goes I am still running the truck as it came out of the box which is toed in a little more than 1 degree I think and the truck likes the set-up.

I still run the battery in the battery slot and have had no issues with it so I haven't tried the aux. slot.

By the way,,,I am soooo jealous of your RPM arms and Integy shocks

I am looking for a way toaccurately measure camber, caster, toe... so I can get the same setup each time.

As for the parts... I got the RPM because I knew I would need it eventually. I bought the shocks on a whim... and not sure I like them yet. Maybe I set them up wrong.

What makes you think you set them up wrong? Are they too soft??

they are softer than the stock shocks were with blue springs.

The Integry have 50wt. oil and red springs. The mounting points on the RPM arms are a little closer in which should also make them a bit stiffer.

If you mount the shocks further in they will apear to be SOFTER as the lever action from the suspension arm is increased and the distance the shock travels over a specific bump is lessend.

You may also find the RPM arms are not helping as they are a lot more bendy than the standard ones, you might be seeing flex from them and asuming its the shocks.

I didnt like what they did to the handling so i have gone back to the standard arms, i keep a stock of spares, but the newer ones are stronger anyway and i havent broken any for a while.

I run mine with 1 red and 1 blue at each corner, 4mm preload, on the innermost mounting hole on the arm (lets the chassis bottom from big jumps and saves blowing shocks) and stock oil and pistons and its great over most surfaces.

I have heard the one red and one blue spring thing before. Must be something to it

I have come to the conclusion do to comparing, and the lack of a direct answer from Integy that these are the T-Maxx shocks... just relabled for the MGT. I have since put the stock shocks back on with red springs and it feels perfect.

Next problem is... I bought a hitec servo to upgrade the steering and the output gear doesnt mesh with the AE servo saver. Is this just me or is there a difference from mfg to mfg?

Also... I got an M8 radio and the receiver has the z-plugs. Someone told me I can simply cut off the small tab on the AE servo plugs to make them fit... but I want to be sure before altering mine.

Thanx,
Matt Silva

blldogg, you were right about the Integy shocks. I have two sets of them (on T-Maxxes) and they need heavy oil or single hole pistons to work. I am running the stock shocks on my MGT and I race the hell out of it. The stock shocks work great. I put one copper and one red spring on each corner, plus the 40-series Pro-line bowties. The thing is so easy to drive.

Servo arms (and servo savers) are different amongst some manufacturers, as you found out. Get the right one. If you force the wrong one on, the gears will be weakened and will strip out.

Some radio equipment compatibility issues are out there, hence the use of different connectors, but generally you can cut off the tab to make it fit. Here's a great page that shows connectors: http://www.finitesite.com/scalemaster/connectors.htm