Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
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Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
Hey there folks,
I think we have a few newer members in our midst.. and I thought I could remind you guys to remember to use BLUE THREADLOCK (often comes in a RED squeeze bar/bottle.. go figure) anytime you screw a METAL SCREW INTO METAL BASE.
If you recently bought an RTR kit, its a good idea to go back and check to see if all the screws are properly tightened and secured with threadlock.
This will lock your screws tight so they dont wiggle out when subjected to temperature changes and vibrations.
Losing screws is very annoying and can also cause major damage if it happens at the wrong place at the wrong time. And murphy's law says that it will happen!!
Have fun
Ram
I think we have a few newer members in our midst.. and I thought I could remind you guys to remember to use BLUE THREADLOCK (often comes in a RED squeeze bar/bottle.. go figure) anytime you screw a METAL SCREW INTO METAL BASE.
If you recently bought an RTR kit, its a good idea to go back and check to see if all the screws are properly tightened and secured with threadlock.
This will lock your screws tight so they dont wiggle out when subjected to temperature changes and vibrations.
Losing screws is very annoying and can also cause major damage if it happens at the wrong place at the wrong time. And murphy's law says that it will happen!!
Have fun
Ram
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RE: Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
But what the hell do you use when you're putting metal screws into PLASTIC?????
I know that friction is usually enough, but I just had a big problem with my T-Maxx RRP Brake setup. FYI, you remove the std. "brake hex" for these, and the rotor is loosely held in place by the same pin that holds that hex in place (while also connecting the drive shaft to the tranny). Each end of this retaining screw protruded out a bit & nestle in two notches in the rotor, which of course keep the disc from spinning freely & transfers the braking power to the shafts. But the disc still can wiggle a bit, it's not locked firmly to the shaft...and this is important in letting the calipers clamp onto it.
I set it up perfectly, but after 5-6 tanks, I lost almost all braking power & saw that the rotor was 'locked' at an angle...the 'wiggle' was gone!! I took it apart & saw that the pin had unscrewed a bit, which locked the disc at the weird angle & didn't let the calipers work. In fact, one of the calipers lost all of the rough 'sandpaper' stuff you glue on these calipers!!
So this is a case where a metal screw must maintain an exact threading in plastic...you don't/can't screw it until it tightens, it must precisely rest in a "middle" position.
What should I use?? And remember, this rotor gets pretty damn hot, so whatever it is, it has to be able to withstand 150 + deg!!!!
Dean
I know that friction is usually enough, but I just had a big problem with my T-Maxx RRP Brake setup. FYI, you remove the std. "brake hex" for these, and the rotor is loosely held in place by the same pin that holds that hex in place (while also connecting the drive shaft to the tranny). Each end of this retaining screw protruded out a bit & nestle in two notches in the rotor, which of course keep the disc from spinning freely & transfers the braking power to the shafts. But the disc still can wiggle a bit, it's not locked firmly to the shaft...and this is important in letting the calipers clamp onto it.
I set it up perfectly, but after 5-6 tanks, I lost almost all braking power & saw that the rotor was 'locked' at an angle...the 'wiggle' was gone!! I took it apart & saw that the pin had unscrewed a bit, which locked the disc at the weird angle & didn't let the calipers work. In fact, one of the calipers lost all of the rough 'sandpaper' stuff you glue on these calipers!!
So this is a case where a metal screw must maintain an exact threading in plastic...you don't/can't screw it until it tightens, it must precisely rest in a "middle" position.
What should I use?? And remember, this rotor gets pretty damn hot, so whatever it is, it has to be able to withstand 150 + deg!!!!
Dean
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RE: Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
I dont see why threadlock wont work on plastic.. but I dont know if it will. Maybe it cant grip plastic?
Its important not to screw/unscrew your screws too many times into plastic.
The drawback with plastic is that screws form a "groove" and if fooled with too much, it can get loose and unfortunately lead to your situation
I'm throwing out guesses here:
Maybe you can use a screw thats one size larger so you get a good grip?
Or put in some hardening putty or soemthing like that in with the screw so it'll go in and stay in?!
Ohh.. something else
DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC DRILL TO DRIVE SCREWS INTO PLASTIC (ESPECIALLY FOR THE FIRST TIME).
A LOT of heat can be generated which can weaken the plastic dramatically.
ram
Its important not to screw/unscrew your screws too many times into plastic.
The drawback with plastic is that screws form a "groove" and if fooled with too much, it can get loose and unfortunately lead to your situation
I'm throwing out guesses here:
Maybe you can use a screw thats one size larger so you get a good grip?
Or put in some hardening putty or soemthing like that in with the screw so it'll go in and stay in?!
Ohh.. something else
DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC DRILL TO DRIVE SCREWS INTO PLASTIC (ESPECIALLY FOR THE FIRST TIME).
A LOT of heat can be generated which can weaken the plastic dramatically.
ram
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RE: Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
ORIGINAL: BUGGIES_R_US
I dont see why threadlock wont work on plastic.. but I dont know if it will. Maybe it cant grip plastic?
I dont see why threadlock wont work on plastic.. but I dont know if it will. Maybe it cant grip plastic?
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RE: Reminder: User threadlock when screwing metal screws into metal base EVERY TIME.
Use some fingernail polish, it will hold it well enough. Then you need to go buy a new plastic part. -c666187