What's up with the hole on the air filter tube on the first picture? Seems to me that when it's sucking air, it's going to suck out of the hole will the least resistance. Am I wrong? What's the point in that hole?
I just got this truck tonight. I went through and put locktite on all the screws, glued the tires. Tomorrow, I'm going to search for 7/16" brass tubing for the diff cup mod. Is that 7/16" O.D. or I.D.? What is the brass tubing used for so I know where to look in Home Depot? I'm hoping to get out tomorrow night and start the break in on it. Can't wait!!
I added a few other pictures of my new baby for the fun of it. Not that you all haven't seen a stock Cen MT2!

Was it like that when you bought it? because thats torn, it shouldnt be like that[X(]

Yeah, it was like that when I got it. I just got it 2 hours ago. It hasn't even been outside. If you look at the hole, it is made like that. It's not ripped.

Dude thats ripped, look at the bottom of the boot thats around the body of the carb its still zip tied to the carb and you can lift the whole air cleaner off it. Thats deffinitly gotten torn at the factory.Its a defective part.

post pics of that on the cen forum on this site and I bet they will send you a new one.

DO NOT RUN THE TRUCK W/ THAT LIKE THAT!!!

or just go buy a air filter assembly for like $5 at the hobby store!

once you get it beat up and broke in, this is what it will look like

just kiddin, i was fixin my diff!


i got some rims on mine


my stock air filter has worked just fine. just keep it clean and oiled. i use Dawn soap to clean it and after run oil to keep it oiled and sticky

I sent Cen an email with a picture of the air filter tube. Probably going to go buy one too, so I can start having some fun. Have any of you guys cut the body up to be able to fuel it, get the glow ignitor in, and pull start it with the top on? Have any pictures of how you cut yours? Also, if you could tell me what kind of brass tubing is needed for the diff cup mod.

look at my 2nd pic. I cut out half the bed and the rear window. i also moved the body mounts to the highest setting. I can refuel w/ the top on and start it when it is warmed up. (when it only takes one pull)

a little better pic of the top....don't have time to snap another sorry!

ndeepoffroad and bodypilot you NEED TO PUT ON FUEL FILTERS.they are not expensive and they are a lifesaver also a motorsaver air filter won't hurt

Thats too bad about that manufacturing defect, CEN would replace that for free, but you would have to wait a very long time to get a very small and inexpensive part. You could just go out to a hobbystore, or order a new air filter online. Heck, get a good one like a motorsaver. It will increase performance a little, and will last a long time.

ye, just get a good 1 if u at it. make cen send u a new 1, and while their sending it drive ur cen like made, then u always gotta spare air filter :P

Tim

Wow thats the same head on the Megatech Killer .12 and Neo engines... must be made by SH engines FOR CEN...

ndeepoffroad
where did you get those rims? did you need adaptors to make them fit? they look nice and i want some for myself.

the brass tubing is 7/16 outer diameter and here is the diff cup mod.





First of all this can’t fix diff cups, only prevent them from ever breaking again so you need to start with 4 good diff cups.

Buy a piece of 7/16 diameter brass tubing

cut off 4 pieces that are 1/4 inches long.

Get some aluminum foil, tin foil or some thing that is similar to that.

Cut 4 strips that are 1/4 inch wide and about 6 inches long.

Wrap one strip around a diff cup and take one of the pieces of brass tubing and try to fit it on.

It probably won’t fit so remove one turn of the foil and try again.

Repeat this until the brass piece fits over the foil.

in-case you are wondering, you need the foil because the diff cup is a little smaller than the brass tubing on the inside and the foil takes up that little bit of space.

After the brass piece fits over the diff cup and foil and is not loose, put a couple drops of thin CA glue (tire glue, super glue) on it and let it sit for about 5 minutes while the glue dries completely.

Repeat for the other three diff cups.

The last thing that you need to do is file down the little part of the shock tower that is near the diff cup. This is necessary because the now slightly larger diff cup needs a little more room.

if u r struggling to find the tube, then get some 10mm olives from the plumbing section of ur local diy store and follow the directions in the last post

Well, I got a response from Cen in less than 24 hours via email. They said send them my address and they'll send me another. I did go by the hobby shop today and bought a motor saver air filter.

I broke my truck in today. The first few tanks were tough to get the engine started. But the rest of the break in tanks, and fun tanks. it started on the first or second pull. I did 6 break in tanks. Just running around slowly varying the speed. After I got through those tanks I ran another 5 or 6 through it tuning it.

When I put my temp gauge to the motor, where should I point it to get a good reading. The temp I get pointing at the top of the cooling head differs quite a bit from the reading I get pointing it more towards the engine ( towards the bottom of the cooling head). The temp between the too seems to differ by about 20 degrees or so.

Another thing, just when I think I get the high end set to run about 220 as called for in the manual. I'll check it again a few passes later and it will be more like 250. I'll richen it up a hair, and it'll be back down to 200 or under. If my engine runs about 210 to 220 most of the time but it goes up to 250 or 260 when really pushing it, will that hurt it to much? Or should I have it set where 220 is the the hottest it will get, under hard running?

I finally got it to kick into second gear the last couple tanks I ran this evening. I was running out of room each time it shifted. I can't wait to get it out where I have room to really open it up. It seems to really take off when that second gear kicks in. Powerband baby!!! This thing is going to be a blast!

Glad they are going to make good on that for you.

Try to get the temp right in the area of the glow plug for the most acurate reading.

it is normal for the temp to fluctuate like that. generally any temp from 200 to 260 is safe. i try to run at 240 - 250 but the temp does get higher after i run wide open for a few seconds.

Well, i'm about 15 or so tanks into driving. And I've got a broken shock, 1 broken diff cup, and at least one other diff cup that is cracked. I think i'm going to order 4 new aluminum shocks for it. Any suggestions? And I need to do the diff cup mod. I'm suprised those parts are broken. I haven't even tried jumping it yet. [>:] Really going to be fun when I start jumping. Guess I'm just gonna have to get used to buying replacement parts. All in all I'm having a blast so far. What temperature is just way to much? Most of the time its around 220 to 260. Or at least that's what i've tried to keep it running at. Sometimes I'll get a reading of 300 degrees. After some really hard driving, full throttle runs through the leaves and such, the temp will just shoot through the roof. Is 300 degrees enough to do damage it?

what damawge happens to the diff cups? i have never had a diff cup fail on me yet...
if anyone has pics of what happens to the diff cups can they post them here please?? also can someone post a pic of the diff cup mod when it is finished??
thanx in advance, adrian

Here's what mine did. And it looks like i've got another about ready to do the same.

ahhh ok i see now... the diff cup cracks in half. thanx for the pic!!!