J_ME65

This is a new thread just for some of the problems and the solutions other Warhead owners have had or came up with. This thread is not for BS'ing or talking about whatever. If you are having any problems, read this thread, if it does not have what you need, read ALL of the "Anybody own a warhead" thread before asking. Chances are you'll find an answer to your question before even asking it.

A few spare items that some of us came up with to keep in stock are servo savers, bulkheads, pull starter, spur gear and the clutch. Except for the clutch none of these items can be purchased "aftermarket" yet. For the clutch, a few that have worked are the hot bodies 2 shoe, the DT stock one, or the ofna 3 shoe (#10265) with the ofna clutch bell (#10402). With the ofna parts, they have to be used together, if you get one, get both. I recommend getting a rechargeable battery pack right away with a failsafe. The battery pack I got was the HPI 5 cell 1200 and it fit right in.

If you are having trouble starting your warhead, first loosen the glow plug about 1/4 turn to lower the compression. Next make sure your glow driver is fully charged. After that make sure you are getting fuel to your carb. If your in colder climate, some people have warmed up the head with either a heat gun or blow dryer, I have started mine in 30 degree weather with no problem, I may have been lucky or it might just be my truck, who knows.

If you find an answer in the other thread that is not here, list the problem and the page the answer was found on. If you figure out your own problem, list it here so that the next person can learn from you. It's amazing how some of the biggest problems can have some of the most simple solutions.

If after reading this thread and all of the other thread, ask here. Someone will get back to you if it has been an experienced problem. If you go to the other thread and ask a question be prepared for the answer to be "that was around page 16" or something similiar. If you find a fix for a problem, list it here. Hopefully this will be a very helpful thread in no time, but we'll see.

J_ME65

Taken from other thread from Spac,

Motor, Your idle problem might be what I just went through today. I read in RC actoin that the servo slides the carb slide past the idle screw pin which allowed the carb to rotate out of allignment. See if the end of you carb at the LSN rotates at all, if it does call DT. DT is sending me a new carb and exhaust gasket, call them, no questions asked.

I noticed that the throttle servo pulled the carb way past wide open. Not sure how to fix it?
I have fooled around with the linkage, pulled the horn off and try to reposition it. If you reposition it the linkage so the carb doesn't go too far, the rod hits the servo horn base. It seems to me that the dual servo horn angles (from brake to throttle)could be wrong and allowing the carb slide to open past WOT. Is there another horn option that we might be able to use? almost need to be a two peice that you could change the angle from the brake to throttle. I don't know?

So far DT service has not let me down, shipped me stresstech parts,driveshafts,engine mount and now the carb.

I do plan on getting a new clutch, probably the ofna set up or the savage that someone in this thread mentioned will work. Dt didn't have much to say about that other than the idle was too high.

Jb welded and reinforced my broken servo saver, seems ok untill the replacements come

J_ME65

Bills response to the leaking oil out of the exhaust manifold. If your pull start undercarriage area is getting all oily and grimy the gasket may be the cause of it.

This is what I got from my local RC store
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=DYN6597

J_ME65

Another clutch setup from mojo,

Guys alittle update on the new clutch config today I too took my engine down to the LHS and got it matched up coerrectly they did have the clutch bell Bill had got....but not the CLutch kit #10265....so here an alternative to Bills setup....pretty much the same but aluminium shoes so its OFNA 3 pin flywheel .21 corn type part #10040 $14.99...OFNA blue alinium shoes w/ lite springs(2 sets acuatlly) i used the black set part#10011.....OFNA harden vented 16T w/bearings part#10402.It works friggin AWESOME unbelieveable GRIP!!!Just use the stock shaft and clutch nut....direct fit!!

J_ME65

This may help idleing inconsistencies with the carb.

It sounds like yours is bad also. The slide should not rotate at all. If you look in your part list exploded view of the carb, you will see a groove in the side of the slide right where the idle screw needle is. Don't know the fix for it yet, I don't know if it damages the slide or the needle.
I'm going to try to rig up some type of throttle trigger stop so when I WOT the slide doesn't move past the idle needle. I wish the radio had adjustable stops.
I called DTX about this issue, they said the idle screw had loosened.
I screwed it in a complete turn and it worked
I can not turn the slide as before!
It may idle more consistently now!

spacoli

To fix broken servo savers.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...12/key_/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...43/key_/tm.htm

J_ME65

Heres a way to get your tires off the rims, if you need to.

While boiling your tires off will work, baking them off is even better and much easier. Preheat your oven to about 375-400 then place your tires and wheels on a cookie sheet (I usually put a small towel on the cookie sheet first). Once the oven is preheated turn it off and put the wheels and tires in there immediately. Leave them in there until the oven has completely cooled down (usually takes about 45 minutes or so) and then take 'em out. Your tires will now just pop right off the wheel. The wheels will be as good as new too where sometimes boiling them will remove the chrome. It's a lot easier, less mess, and it doesn't smell half as bad as when you boil. Also, you don't have to worry about your wife griping about dirty tires in her sauce pan.

I tried this on a set of tires that were glued probly quite a bit more than they should have been and it did not work. I imagine it'll work on tires that are glued like a normal person would have glued them though.

J_ME65

There is a kit out to get rid of all the phillips screws and replace with decent ones. I think Motor came up with this one.

Just to let you guys know: I got an email from someone at www.hexcrews.com and they are going to be offering a HexHeads A.P. conversion kit for the warhead either by tomorrow or early next week sometime. I don't know about you guys but the philips screws that come with the warhead strip very easy on me. I'm going to replace them all with cap head screws and these hexhead A.P. screws sound pretty awesome.

Just checked there site and they have the Hex screw kits available now.Im picking up a bag. Dang those phillip soft headed screws. Whats a extra 22.00 bucks.

J_ME65

Here is another response from Spac on the idle screw problem.

The idle screw does not go into the slide groove enough. When you try to adjust the idle down, there is very little of the idle screw tip in the groove. At the end of the groove there is a pocket for the screw to seat in. The groove is realy large in relation to the idle screw tip and already allows a little rotation of the slide. If the idle screw is at the point where it's barely in the groove when the carb is closed and if or when the brakes are applied it forces the carb closed more,stalling the engine and binding up the slide. Now on the other end, when the slide is pulled to WOT its can do the same thing but much easier because the idle screw is in at the opposite angle with no definate stop or pocket in the groove to stop it. When this happens it damages the idle screw and scors up the slide a little.

I think the groove in the slide should match the idle screw end better.

The pocket the idle screw seats in should be deeper, so that thereis plenty of screw to hold the slide in place.

One other thing that a few people have tried that also worked out was to place a zip tie or rubber band on your trigger to keep it from going past WOT.

J_ME65

Here's some more on the clutch setups.

Guys heres my config for the clutch it works great so far!you'll find good info for the clutch between pages 16 through 19...LOL thread is huge now great info great seeing everybody coming together to get this thing hashed out.......and will you guys stop pissing Bill offf.....LOL Bill your great!!The last two days i have ran about a gallon and half through it and its starting to go good.....yeah the answer to somebody's question if its faster than a revo....it isnt.My buddy just got a revo and i can take him for the fist....sayyyyy 30 40 feet and then his R's come up and he gets me but i think its my new clutch thats helping me at the start!definitly sticks to the ground with that wieght....so far a few common problems but since the two bulkhead replacements(one in the front and one in the back....lol)me and mister oak tree met...ROFL.As for the carb...no probs yet i think?seems to run good...no sputtering or lose of performance.So i'll keep you guys posted in further testing...great work guys!!...OH by the way i want to show off my WARHEAD check the pics...sorry there alittle grainy i took them with my phone
quote:

ORIGINAL: mojoseeka

Guys alittle update on the new clutch config today I too took my engine down to the LHS and got it matched up coerrectly they did have the clutch bell Bill had got....but not the CLutch kit #10265....so here an alternative to Bills setup....pretty much the same but aluminium shoes so its OFNA 3 pin flywheel .21 corn type part #10040 $14.99...OFNA blue alinium shoes w/ lite springs(2 sets acuatlly) i used the black set part#10011.....OFNA harden vented 16T w/bearings part#10402.It works friggin AWESOME unbelieveable GRIP!!!Just use the stock shaft and clutch nut....direct fit!!I asked my Rc guy about the whole DTX says its a 17T in the manual but its really a 15T on the truck and he said going with a 15 or 16T on the clutch bell will be no major diffrence that you could see....so i had no problem going up a tooth to 16 he says with these shoes in there i still should be seeing power wheelies with it...tooo cold to run here now to see its full potential....but i cant wait!!!SOOOO much difrent than stock clutch grip i would have to gas it half way to get it to go now a little blip and its wanting to go i would definitly go either bills way with the carbon shoe setup or go with this setup with the alluminium shoes both work great!The only diffrence im hearing is that alliuminium shoes will last longer but has more abuse on your clutch bell...that sometimes your clutch belll will go before your shoes do...but you go with that vented clutch bell and get some wind and air in there and it will keep it cool.And the carbon shoes will last a shorter time but less stress to your clutch bell...hope this helps guys keep it comming!!!!!

Great News,

No I didnt switch over to Gyco to save money on my car insurance, but I did get my kids Warhead running. I used my(the one I was saving for myself) Ofna 10265 Clutch Kit(this is the one also that bill used). I did this cause my stock clutch is still togethor unwhich my sons wasn't. I used the Ofna 10402 Clutch Bell (Same as what bill used also) and WAAAALAAAA. No freaking plastic shavings and It actually runs alot better. I RECOMMEND THIS UPGRADE for everyone. Anything other then the stock crap that Duratrax put in there works 200% better. Since I put the New Clutch in there, is actually idles better(which I mean it doesnt always want to take off on you) and takes off better. Spent around $50.00 all togethor for this. For Mine Im going to use the same Clutch Bell Housing(OFNA 10402) but use the Ofna 10011(Aluminium Shoes) and the Ofna 10040 Flywheel, which Im waiting for Towe Hobbies to ship.. This way I can see which holds up better. Another thing I like about the Flywheel is that its vented unlike the crappy Duratrax's.

J_ME65

Here's some info on the tiger drive from Spac:

Here is the results of the tiger drive. They sent me two modifided plates to try.

I bolted it fast with the standard hardward supplied, but the bottom cap screws and washers were sticking out to far and hit the motor mount. I then replaced with some standard screw for the bottom hole, which shound be fine if used with loctite. I could not screw the cover fast on the bottom, but once it's pushed against the motor mount, it will be fine. I would take a little force to get the plastic cover pushed enough for the motor bolt hole to line up. I think it can be done but you can also dremel off a little plastic material to make it easier. I can't tell you for sure because a hole needs drilled in the chassis to get the motor and drive in place.

The next thing you need to do (which I'm not ready to do) is drill a 1/2" hole in the chassis side plate for the drive to be accessable. You would aslo need to grind off very little bit of the motor mount.

So it will work if you want to cut a hole in the chassis side plate. I don't want to do this right now. Do you guys think it would compromise the chassis strength?



I found an air leak around the flywheel (front bearing seal). Is this a big issue?

The truck seems to be running great now. Temps are cooler, making power at cooler temp.

spacoli

Here is the link with the tiger drive modification complete.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...39/key_/tm.htm

Sulivan Products said they will send me a prototype made specifically for the
Warhead. The drive will be accessed at the same location as the pullstart (nice).

The Warhead Tiger Drive should be out at the end of the month. Contact them if your interested in getting one. Not sure on the cost.

lukskywalker

ORIGINAL: lukskywalker

Starter Box,

Hey guys. Got to tell you something great. Got My Ofna Starter box from towerhobbies and many its worth every penny. Simple to setup. Has 2 alignment pins that insures your chassic is alinged with the flywheel and 2 sec on the starter box its running. Yes you really need to setup these alignment pins or else you will burn up your skidplate,but its simple to do. No more pulling the cord, breaking knuckles, heating the engine, priming etc etc. Its that good. And with this cold spell where I live,around 30's and its always a pain. No more... Defiently another well investment for the warhead besides my clutch.

I'm using 2x 7.2 batterys on the box incase your curious.

Heres the link if your interested.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHUC9

Wide Open

heres even better news than all these fixes.[&:] DT is supposedly finally gathering data of the "most broken parts" and are starting to design replacements for them before their next shipment. hopefully they will send me a kit with all the new pieces when the new parts come out so i dont have to buy one!

newnitroinnm

Does anyone know anything about steering servo saver adjustment? I beefed mine up with wire and JB Weld but I don't want it too loose or too tight and wipe out the servo. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dpc1234

Ok, Some of you might know me from Radio Control Zone forums. I want to put a wishlist together of billet parts everybody wants. I am a machinist and even though I work fulltime, I am thinking of leasing some machine time for my own stuff. Some while back I posted pics of my billet upper bellcrank I made for the servo saver(the weak link) and I know that is a must but what else?

LorenzoItly

Hello there,
I have been searching for a solution to access to the Idle Stop Screw (ISS), apparently there no way to tune it, with the Engine running.[&:]
It look like requires the removal of the fuel tank, or a special “snake� screw driver, which allow to handle the ISS, without the removal of the fuel tank.
Is there anybody who experienced such problem? I am in the break in process, and I would like to slightly reduce the idle of the Engine, thus to increase a little but the life of the clutch shoes as well as the Spur Gear 49T if possible.[]

I would like also to know how the ISS have to be turn in order to reduce the Idle Speed, it is not clear to me wheter counterclockwise
or clockwise[].

Thanks,

Lorenzo

Wide Open

you have to turn the screw counterclockwise to lower the idle. and yes, you have to either take the engine or fuel tank out to get to the screw.[:@] i dont find it as much of a problem, though, as i rarely have to adjust that screw anyways.

LorenzoItly

Wild have you done it with the engine running by taking out the fuel tank? Or have you adjusted the ISS counterclockwise a 1/12 for instance just to see the results?

Thanks

Lorenzo

danny f norman

from what i've seen on the posts. i know the ofna clutch works has anyone had luck with the savage 3 shoe

J_ME65

You can adjust the idle stop screw with the fuel tank in and the engine running. You need to get a very thin, long screwdriver and it still kind of hits it at an angle, but you can do it. Just make sure when you do adjust it that the screw is still in the groove on the carb slide and the carb slide is not rotating. If it is keep turning the screw in very small amounts until it seats good. It may not rotate for you at all, but if id does...

danny f norman

i was also able to adjust the iss with it running. just be careful i cut the fuel line going to the carb w/ the screw driver.

Wide Open

i replace all of the stock fuel line with the prather stuff. its really thick and resists heat well. plus it lasts a long time. i think its about $20 on tower for a 30 foot roll.

J_ME65

I would (and did) replace the fuel line as soon as you can. I also cut my fuel line adjusting the screw the first time, after that I had no problem. The fuel lines that come on the truck are kind of cheap, so I replaced mine and added an inline filter as well. They're only a dollar or two and it's another one of those minor safeguards, so might as well.

J_ME65

Here's a little tip from luksky about replacing the spur gear:

quote:

ORIGINAL: ynot1

Gentlemen,

How do you hold the slipper pads in place while assembling the spur gear?

ynot1

First off. take the back plate,slipper pad and then spur gear and hold them togethor (this is the front half). Take the trk and have it sitting vertical(nose down). Slide the first part in, then take the other slipper pad(make sure its in the grove) and then back plate and complete the sandwich. Install spring, washer and nut. Hold the sandwich togethor tight till the nut starts to compress the spur gear assembly, by this time you should be able to just hold onto the teeth. Tighten all the way down (thight) and then back off 1/8 of a turn. I also used locktight when I installed the nut(precaution method). Hope this helps.