Mekong

How do you fix the pull start when its pulled all the way out?

I got my an engine back from hobbyservices (last one leaked). I cant get this one started, I followed all the instructions, check my glow plug and made sure the engine wasnt flooded... Now my hands hurt and the pull starts all the way pulled out...

I have had this truck for over a month and have ran it for all of 10min...

danny f norman

if its pulled all the way out and wont go back in, the spring inside is broke or unsprung. you can rewind the spring if its not broke but its a pain i had to do it a few times with my Ofna 9.5

Mekong

Should I just package the engine back up and send it to durtrax, I spent about 30 min before trying to get it started, no luck. This engine has never ran since I got it...

danny f norman

if the p/s is shot i would send it back. it really is a pain to fix.also what plug are you using i'm using a OS A3 and my motor starts 3-4 pulls everytime sometimes 1-2 pulls

Mekong

I sent my old engine out with the orginal glow plug. They sent it back with no plug, the guy at the LHS said to use a OS 8

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCB27&P=0

Is that the source of the problem?

spacoli

I would just contact them and have another pullstart sent out to you. The engine should start, don't know what the problem might be. If it's not flooding at all, it's sounds like it's not getting fuel. If you noticed, was there any sign of it wanting to start at all. If not it probaby was any fuel getting to the carb.

You can fix the pullstart it is a pain, but it's better than waiting for a new one. Still call and have one sent to you.

I'm going to look for one of my old post on how I fixed my pullstart, I will post it again here.

spacoli

I use an OS 8, that's not your problem.

Here is how I fixed my pullstart.

Remove to whole assembly,spring and all. The string will be pulled all the way out though this whole proccess.

Put the rounded/flat end of the spring in the reel groove and I wound up the spring around the reel completly tight. To hold the spring in placeI clamped with vise grips then I tied it with dental floss in two spots. This just held the spring from dropping off the reel, it still might unwinde a little so you have to keep a hold of it while you clip the other end in the V groove in the case/cover. This takes some time and patience. took me over 5 times to get it. When you put the end in the v groove you have to have enough spring sticking out off the reel to keep it tight/flat to the case. This allows the spring to stay flat against the case. If you don't do this the angle is too great to get the spring in the v groove. Then you just work it in the groove with a small flat screwdrive. Once thats done drop the rest of the reel into place, hold it down, don't let it pop up. Cut the dental floss and let it wind itself back into place. Put the cover over it. Test it out to see if it's working fine. I sprayed some lube in it to keep the friction down. Mount it back on the engine.

So for all of you Warhead owners that are out there waiting for your pullstarters to come in, take some time think it over as you doing it, it can be done.

Mekong

I did notice bubbles in the fuel line after trying a few pulls, I checked the tank and fuel lines and everything seemed snug. I primed again and the bubbles were gone, but it quickly flooded. I took off the glow plug and gave it a few pulls and replaced the glow plug and tried again. This and variations I tried, checking the glow plug and starter...

If I could get the pull start fixed or repalced I guess Ill bring it to the LHS before I send it back...

In the mean time, wonder how hard it would be to mount my SS5800 electric system in the warhead lol

I can get the pull start to snap back in, but then when I pull it wont snap back so I guess the spring is off or somthing?

spacoli

That's good you have fuel now. If you follow my instuctions you can fix the pullstart as long as nothing is broken inside. If you have any questions or you don't understand something PM me and I will try to explain it. i just read a post was about someone had used a 12mm socket with a uneversal joint with a drill the end of their oneway bearing and started their truck like that. If you have those tools give it a try untill you get it fixed.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3931410/tm.htm

I had modified a tiger drive to work, but it took allot to get that to work. Tiger drive will be coming out with a Warhead drive at the end of the month.

spv1425

You might get lucky fixing them but I've broken two, neither were fixable. The plastic hex that it wraps around usually gets cut in the side and the line slips into the cut. I'd just call and get a new one. It's not that bad to replace. If you dont' want to fix issues like this one, this may not be the best hobby for you. I'm new to the hobby too, I spend at least 50% of the time working on my truck fixing something. I'd say it took about an hour the first time I took the engine out. When you're starting your truck I recommend loosening up the glow plug till you get it running, then tighten it up. Helps save the pull starter.

J_ME65

I would say go buy one at your LHS and call DT at the same time. That way you will always have a spare around for if and when one does break. When you are going to start it next time, make sure you're getting fuel to the carb and then loosen your glow plug about 1//4 turn, if even that. It will be much easier to pull and you wont go through the next one as quick. Hope this helps

Mekong

Didnt know that it would start if the glow plug was lose...

Thanks

Mekong

Well I just called Hobby Services, the guy started interrogating be about the last break I had! Unhelpful, unfriendly and down right rude. He said that I had to send in the pullstart to get one back, I mentioned to him that I sent in my engine and some parts a month ago and had just got them back and am having troubles with the new engine again, then he tore into me saying that he doesn’t believe that I could have ran the truck for only 10min and had a crash. I then explained the leaking the carb to him and how the truck took off, I got no reply. I asked him if they could send me a mailing lable so I didnt have to pay the shipping again, and at that point he became quite rude a short in tone and said that 'I guess theres away I could send a pull start out'. He then went on to say that he is putting a mark on my account that says that from now on I have to send all my parts in to get a replacement. When I asked to talk to his supervisor he said 'good day' and hung up.

I am NEVER buying a durtrax again and am considering cutting my loses and selling this one. I urge all others not to buy this duratrash.

[sm=angry.gif]

Should of got a savage...

MotorPsyko

wow totally unbelievable, did you get the guys name? I would send an email to [email protected] and put Attention: Barb on it, I think shes the head of customer service there.

I've dealt with several people at hobby services. Not all of them were as helpful or as knowledgable as I'd like but none of them have ever been rude to me... I just got off those phone with them over an engine issue... I'm waiting on an email from them before I decide how I want to "grade" them on this one heh... More to follow in the "anyone own a warhead" thread.

Mekong

I know, I called them twice before when I had my 1st problem and they were so helpfull...

Email sent to hobbyservices explaning the situation indepth. If I dont get a reply Ill call and talk to the manager.

Whats with this, 'we are putting a mark on you file so next time you have to send the part in', what BS, has anyone heard of that policy?

spacoli

Sorry to here about your trouble with DT. I have had nothing but good luck with all the service people I have email and talked to.

I think their policy is you have to return the defective part. I think because there has been so much trouble with the warhead that they have been waiving that to some extent as a customer courtesy.

I think email is the best way to contact them, that way they can't cop an attitude with you because of your tone of voice or how discouraged we are over the phone. That is unless your message is in all caps with a bunch of *##*$$ thrown in.

Keep on plugging away at them and be nice about. They knoq there is problems and they are taking care of us.

J_ME65

There is one guy there I have talked to more than once that I'd be willing to put money on is the same guy. Everyone else has been very helpful and courtous (however you spell it) the rest of the time though. If you wanted to say anything, I'm sure they could track who you talked to fairly easily though. I'd probly e-mail as well though.

Mekong

Still waiting on a reply from the email...

I am very displeased so far with durtrax.

My previous experiance with them was a evader ST rolling chassie that I got off ebay for a amazing deal. When I got it I took a few looks over it and realized that compared to my stampede it is a major peice of shmit. The plastic was brittle, the shocks were a joke and the diff was crap. I soon turned around and sold the truck, made 20$...

So this weekend I am driving over an hour to get a pullstart from one of the only stores I have found in the CA bay area that carries warhead parts...

I cant help the overwhelming nagging in my head 'I told you that you should of got a savage...'

spacoli

I read that an HPI pullstart will work, check those out. Better quality.

Mekong

I have yet to get a reply from hobby services, I guess I will call again monday. This has to be the WORST customer service I have had with a company like this!!!

Guess Ill try the HPI, do you have a link to one that will work?

I think that I am gonna get this thing working and sell it for a savage, at least they understand the concept of not alienating your customers!

spacoli

I'm not sure,ask on the Warhead thread, someone will know. But I think this is the one.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDLN5&P=ML