flap

I fried the spur gear on my Savage today.
I have the owners manual, it shows the assembly of the spur gear, but, doesnt have replacement detail as far as what steps have to be taken such as do I have to remove the engine or just the air cleaner, I suppose that will be clear when I begin removing parts.
I just thought Id ask you guys with the experience for any tips you can think of.
Im sure in time, the workings of the truck will be 2nd nature to me like planes are now, its all just new to me now and I dont want to booger anything up.
Thanks a bunch, Roger

flap

OK, I got the old spur gear off.
Is there a trick to getting the engine aligned perfectly again in the gears when Im ready to reinstall it ?
I noticed the engine mount holes are wide so the engine has some placement adjustment.
Cmon somebody,..anybody help, pleeeeease.

LandShark

install the spur gear, then put the engine in.

put the mount screws on, tighten them a little.

then check if the spru gear meshes the clutch bell very well,

and use your finger the turn the spur gear, see if it turns freely.


main points are "

1 spur gear meshes with clutch bell very well

2. they can turn freely

LandShark

the engine's shaft should point straight to the front.

if they cant match those two requirements, try to move the

engine to adjust.

flap

Thanks LandShark!
I noticed your OFNA 4 shoe clutch kit.
Would that be a good place to start upgrading?
Would the improvment be that itd be faster off the line??
Thank you.

LandShark

4 shoe clutch helps acceleration, but the stock savage clutch shoes are good.

the first thing to upgrade is steering servo.

let me give you a list:

air filter and in-line oil filter ( you must do this ASAP)

steering servo

hump rx battery

HB alum shocks with 30 or 35 shock oil

skid plates


i am too lazy to type more, look at my sig

noahb

My Feedback: (67)

Just about any clutch is better then the Savages clutch. I am installing a Kyosho Flywheel, Alum clutch shoes (they hook up really well) and some heavy springs to make the clutch engage at a higher RPM. When I set the gear mesh, I hold either the spur gear or the clutch bell and rock the other gear. What you are looking for is just a hair movement in one, but not the other. The closer you can get the tolerence without binding, the better. Just make sure that you rotate the spur gear around and try it in diffrent spots, as the spur gear may or maynot be perfectly round. You want it to be able to spin freely too. If you stripped your spur, it is probably cause of to loose of a fit with the clutch bell, or a stupid rock got in there and destroyed it. I hope this helps.

noahb

My Feedback: (67)

How are you liking your new engine. Are you poping those wheels up? I bet you have a nice top end...

LandShark

the reason i stripped my first spur gear is that the spur and CB didnt mesh very well, only half

flap

LOL!

One more question and Ill quit.

Lots of talk here about stering servo upgrade.

Do stock ones fail soon or could there somehow be an improvement over what I have now?

Just curious because the steering seems great, though I have nothing to compare it to.

LandShark

i dont have a nice top end because i am still using

14T CB, the combination of XTM,OFNA 4 shoe and OFNA 16T CB

didnt fit my truck.


it can pop wheelies or flip itself over easily. the engine has too

much extra torque when the truck is run on some flat ground,

such as parking lot, even grass. i heard the engine screamed

"gear me up, idiot"

LandShark

here is what you should do

a high torque servo for steering ( hitec 645 is good. hitec 945

is recommanded)


then, use stock steering servo for throttle


use the junk stock throttle servo for the reverse.

LandShark

fail safe should be considered too

flap

I cant believe how simple the engine is to remove and replace!
I dreded this for nothing.

Looked at a reverse module @ LHS today when I picked up the spur gear and was a little intimidated at the install prcedure, however, since the spur gear went so well, Im feeling a little cocky.

Are there any drawbacks to having a reverse system? and do you think itd be too complicated for a newbie?

I like the new truck, now I think Ill do some searches and try to figure out how much trouble it is to set up an 8 or 12 port engine and what all gears must be changed.

The tmax bunch has got me concerned about speed.

Polobear

Landshark, have you had good luck w/ the HB shocks? I've heard from quite a few ppl that they are junk, particularly the shaft on them. One driver bent a pair of them in the first 15 mins of driving... I don't have them but I'm curious how they're reviewing for others.

Far as the aluminum skid plates, I hope you've sealed your diff's or there's a good chance you've gotten moisture in there. That metal to metal seal won't work on its own.

Flap, did you read the HPI tip about using a piece of paper to help you align/space the spur gear? If not, you might look around for it (I tried quickly but couldn't find it). Basically, they say to put a piece of paper between the clutchbell and spur gear and tighten the engine up with that in place... then rotate the spur and feed the paper out and you'll have more or less the proper spacing.

pb

flap

Polobear, yes I saw that tip in here someplace and did just that.
Its raining again here though so I cant try it out other than in the shop.

Have you replaced you factory installed engine? if so, whatd you use?

Thanks

Polobear

Nah, I'm still using the stock engine. If I were to replace it I would go w/ a hyper 8port (because I'm too cheap to buy one of the RBs). The way I figure, use it till it dies! I'm not racing, just bashing, so I figure once this one gives up I'll upgrade it!

pb

flap

10-4 that.
Im enjoying this thing, I just wish I could quit it down some so as not terrify the neighbors.

LHS tells me if I get a quieter pipe I gotta sacrafice power, but, I remember reading some threads here that indicate the stock pipe is junk, too loud and if I remember right, said theres a more powerful pipe thats even quieter.
Im doing search after search to get as much info as I can w/o wearing out my welcome asking so many questions.

Polobear

My RB-063 pipe is on order, once it get it on there I can let you know first hand, but feedback from friends is that it is much quieter. The stock pipe is not only loud but has a damn annoying tone to it, so it feels 5 times worse than it really is, I'm sure

Word has it the duratrax pipe is pretty quiet too, but the pressure nipple might need to be relo'd a bit because it's not in a great place. I went w/ the 063 instead of the 086 to boost my low-end a bit more than high-end (I barely have enough room to get to shifting speed so having a lot of top-end isn't a big deal for me).

Lots of choices out there!

pb

noahb

My Feedback: (67)

Hey guys, you might consider the new Picco .26 pullstart. Nitro House has them in stock...at least they did. Should be a great engine...