SPOOL VS. OPEN DIFF???
#1
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I'm curious about spooling my rear and keeping front open. I understand its best to get hardened axle shafts if spooled. Generally, regardless of vehical model, what should be expected for performance and maintainance.
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Could you elaberate why a no, no? The thread is generally speaking because my rig is scratch build. It's nothin and a little of everything at the same time.
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Spool = better traction
Spool = more broken drivetrain parts
Spool = crappy steering
Open Diff= better steering
Open Diff= less stress on drivetrain
Open Diff= ok traction
Open diff with thick diff fluid= great traction
Open diff with thick diff fluid= good steering
Open diff with thick diff fluid= less stress on drivetrain
So which would you choose? I would say open diff with thick diff fluid to get the best of both worlds. Why make trouble for yourself and lock the diff. Locked diff is great for traction in straight line. Not for bashing or racing.
Spool = more broken drivetrain parts
Spool = crappy steering
Open Diff= better steering
Open Diff= less stress on drivetrain
Open Diff= ok traction
Open diff with thick diff fluid= great traction
Open diff with thick diff fluid= good steering
Open diff with thick diff fluid= less stress on drivetrain
So which would you choose? I would say open diff with thick diff fluid to get the best of both worlds. Why make trouble for yourself and lock the diff. Locked diff is great for traction in straight line. Not for bashing or racing.
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From: Maple,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: mojavemonster
Could you elaberate why a no, no? The thread is generally speaking because my rig is scratch build. It's nothin and a little of everything at the same time.
Could you elaberate why a no, no? The thread is generally speaking because my rig is scratch build. It's nothin and a little of everything at the same time.
#6
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ERICEM says not on revo or tmaxx. I'm going twin 457's. Thats more torque. Going complete stainless steal tuber with a lighter tub ( e.g. alumi, tin, galvenized ). Thats more weight. Spool + Torque + Weight + Landing Jumps = well, guess you ain't gotta be a rocket scientist, right? Thanks for the break down, Twomanytoys.
So what about them oils then. Read an old artical in Car Action today about some buggy. They ran 3k wt in front and 1k rear ( 30k mid but thats beside the point ). You got a breakdown on front / back biasing.
So what about them oils then. Read an old artical in Car Action today about some buggy. They ran 3k wt in front and 1k rear ( 30k mid but thats beside the point ). You got a breakdown on front / back biasing.
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the thicker the fluid the more even the power is going to be distributed between the right and left. In a truggy you use a thicker fluid in front because the front tires tend to unload alot easier but you dont want to go too thick otherwise you loose steering. You still want the steering to pull you around tight corners and not let the rear push you around corners. If you were to use a thicker oil in the rear and thinner in front the rear will tend to push into corners which you dont want for racing. Now this is for truggies and buggies. Monster trucks on the other hand is the opposite. You want thick fluid in the rear and thinner in front. Monster trucks already have a hard enough time turning but you dont need to make such tight turns that truggies would have to make. You can put 60wt or even thicker and get great traction but still not have near the stress on the drivetrain as a spool would have. Go as thick as you want as long as the tires work seperately from each other.
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Hmmm. Why the difference between buggys and monsters. Is it because monsters have higher center of gravety which puts more body weight to the rear while throttling. Or something to do with a buggies center diff. Or is it augh...........maybe I just trial and error it, huh? So what....30f/60r good start?
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The difference is because truggies/buggies have a center diff and mainly because of racing. 30/60 sounds like a good start. Thats alot better than the stock grease in the diffs.



