Joelcrane: My st-15 has a 1 piece block from what i see. It has no bolts holding the block together, just 4 bolts to mount it with. How do you like your st-15? Any hopups on it like a tuned pipe or 2 speed?
Rayrayraycer: The evader should be a blast for you. I read a review of it in a magazine last night, and all they had was good things to say about it. They said the motor was top notch, and was very fast. Let us know how it goes.
Billyman: Thanks for all the encouragment. I was sitting inside thinking about it, and was tired, but decided to go out, and see what i could do with it, and after i did that(adjusted lows-peed), it ran like a champ. I also figured out why it was in reverse twice. I think it must have somehow backfired, and the engine tharted running in revers.lol It ran craooy both times, and died, so thats the only thing i can figure. Thanks for the help guys.

Eric

cummins, thats good to hear(magazine article). thats why I went with this one. The one year warranty helped alot too.I know im gonna break somethin. Hopefully after the break in.......
I'll let ya know. Have fun with your truck today.

My st-15 is ok... But at the moment it is for sale. I want to buy a more race-bred truck. I have the tuned pipe... That had to be the best hopup. It has WAY more power!

Billyman, used to go to Bristol all the time for the drag races and nascar races. Dad is going back there this year to watch the top fuelers run...

Joelacrane: Do you have towers tuned pipe they sell for it? What would you take for it seperate, and what do u want for the whole truck? Thanks
Everyone: Ran the truck about an hour today, and it ran pretty good. Can the low speed needle affect the truck any from 1/2-full throttle? I ask because it wants to cut out sometimes on top end, and sometimes its really slow to accellerate to full throttle. I heard a gear grinding noise after a minute of running it, and i got the truck, and it had brken the mount off of the chassis brace thing. I set the gear mesh, and just kept running, and it did fine. Its still kind of slow though, so i think it could still use some good tuning. I might mess with it some tomorrow. Also, after shutting it off, and refueling it, when i start it back up, i have to make a few runs to warm it up again before it runs right. Is this normal, or what? Overall the engine is running pretty good. Is a tuned pipe just one big open chamber on the inside, or does it have stuff inside of it(more chambers)? I was thinking of trying to make one(i know, im cheap), and i was just wondering. Thanks again.

Eric

You sound as if you may still be running a tad fat. Try leaning it out a micro turn at a time. At the point you’re at on the tuning, a little adjustment will go a long way. Leave the LSN alone for the time being and concentrate on your WOT fuel to air mixture.

The grinding noise I’m not too sure about. A thorough inspection is in order on your part.

A tuned muffler is single chamber but with larger volume and with a specified outlet size to regulate a specific amount of backpressure. There is a science behind it and they work. Getting the right one is all it takes.

What percentage of nitro are you using?

I won't sell it alone... I want $280 for the truck. Hopups are proline tires, tuned pipe, aluminum chassis brace, RC10GT suspensoin mod, and a gas tank mod. I think i have spent around 350 on this truck... It also has a brand new Airtronics blazer AM radio.

Joelacrane: I was just wondering. I dont want to buy another one, i was just curious.Did the tuned pipe help low-end power much?

Billyman: The gear grinding noise was from the chassis brace bieng broke, and the chassis bowed apart just enough to make them mesh up bad. I remeshed them, and even though i dont have a chassis brace, it is working good. Ive probably ran at least 10 tanks through it today, and it runs pretty good. It will load up at idle, but runs pretty good. When i lean it out just a little with the HSN, it doesent wind out good(rev) like when its just a hair richer, and really doesent run much different besides that, so i dont know. It can still be a pain in the butt to start when its hot though. Any suggestions on that? If i let it cool for a minute it seems to start better. I got some heavy 3/4inch square tubing im going to make a roll cage/handle out of before long, so that when it flips it wont tear up anything. The only thing besides that about the engine is that it just seems low on low-end power. Once it starts getting wound up it pulls hard, but its kind of a dog before that. Overall i am very happy with it so far. The truck itself seems to be pretty good. It took some pretty hard hits today, and never broke anything except the chassis brace. Thanks for the help. Also, i am using 15% nitro with 18% oil.

Eric

I kinda guessed that you only would wnat one... Tower sells the tuned pipe for like 30 dollars or something. It gives is so much power! It actually has a powerband like a motorcycle... Buy one! They are awsome.

Yes it gives it more low end but i has tons of top end! First it kinda gets out of the hole then it just rockets away all the sudden.

You can rev these engines very high (Like 30,000 RPMS...) but only for a second at a time. Don't hold the throttle on.

Joelacrane: Thanks a lot for the tips on the tuned pipe. Yeah, tower has them for $28. When i beak a serious part on my truck, if its still running right, i will probably have to buy the part from tower, so i might go ahead and get a pipe then too. I ran the truck some more tonight, and its still running good. A guy my uncle works with has some kind of traxxas with a 2.5, and his buddy has one with like 2.7hp or something[X(], and im going to try to go drive it with them sometime because the guy my uncles works withs friend knows a lot about them, and ported his itself, and they said it was AWESOME! So, maybe they can look at mine, and really get it tuned good for me. Thanks for the help.

Eric

Hey cummins, hello all. Don't forget to check out the St-15 thread, keep it active; here is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1319504/mpage_1/key_st%252D15/anchor/tm.htm#1319504]the link.[/link]

ahh yes! Thank you for trying to revive my old thread!

okay okay okay.. so what is the absolute real way to break a rebuild or new engine in to get the most power and life out of it?

Follow the engine manufacturer's instructions...

N/P, how much of a difference did you see in the cornering/handling by adding the RC-10 arms? I have the 2-speed tranny, tuned pipe, I drilled the hell outta my clutch (HUGE difference since you have to abandon your slipper clutch for the 2-spd.), optional shocks, and of course threw out the stock tires... The A-arm upgrade is most likely coming... is the list you made in that thread complete? Thanks for the info.

Hey frost. Did you drill a hole in your clutches? Does this just make them lighter so that the motor gets higher in rpm's before it engages? Would you recommend for me to try it out on my clutch on my truck with the single speed? Thanks for the help. Im really interested in this. Also, how fast is your truck on topend and accelleration with the 2 speed, and do you think the tuned pipe was a good buy? Thanks

Eric

Well, it's like this.... I got the truck on Christmas, and the middle of the day I ordered a mess of hopups. I put them on with the stock tires (garbage) so that is basically all I have seen since day-1. I drilled my clutch because I wanted the engine to rev to where it made more torque (like a stall converter in a drag car); normally you could dial in this slippage with the slipper. Since I had mine off on day 3 I am not even sure of the range of adjustment that was available. The clutch mod was done recently (last 2 weeks) and in my case made a big difference... It should for you as well but your slipper will have to be adjusted accordingly as now your engine will put down more torque at a lower speed. I went overboard with drilling, get a spare, they are cheap. This mod also helps witht he 2-speed because for some lame reason, the 1st gear on the 2speed is taller than stock by 1 tooth! You would think that it would be lower (numerically higher) with second gear being tall (numerically smaller) but... And then 2nd gear is plenty tall. If you run in deep grass with lots of grab/slip traction the second gear spur gear may wear out on the inside faster but they are inexpensive. The shift point is easy to set... These things (all but the clutch done at once) made the truck much quicker... Do it if you have the dough.

I saw where the 2 speeds 1st was higher than the singles first, and that is dumb if you ask me. How much did you drill out your clutch shoes? I might try that tonight. I also replied to the st-15 thread.Also, will any other brand of truck clutch shoes or bell housing work?Thanks

Eric

That RC10 mod helped ALOT! It handles much better. It also is better cosmetically. The tuned pipe doesn't rub the tires, the body doesn't rub the tires and it just plain looks cool all "wide" like that! I think that parts list is complete exepting some washers you could go get at the local Ace hardware store... As soon as you put the car back together then go to True value or whatever and get what you need...

I drilled 3 holes in each shoe. the hole size was just under 1/8th an inch if I remember correctly; the same size or slightly smaller than the holes already there for the pins. Having no slipper to adjust, it helped me a good bit. I had much more "punch" just off idle.

so are you saying that just by taking off a small amount of plastic it made a big difference. i dont see how this would make much of a difference. its not much weight at all.

Ive drilled 2 that are a little bigger than the ones the pins go through, and i might drill part of another, but after that it should be good.
Ericheller: The thing is, the whole clutch shoes is light anyway, and the engines turn a lot of rpm's, so thats why it helps i guess.

Eric

Drilling three holes on the side that engages (opposite the pinned side) reduces the rotating mass and makes the engine rev to a higher RPM (where it makes more torque)(this is torque multiplication like a torque or stall converter in a real car) before the clutch engages. It seems like a small amount but most would recommend only 2 holes, I had good luck w/3... Remember, that small mass at HI speed makes a big difference (inertia=mass*velocity).........

hmmm... ill have to try this next time i have the clutchbell off. would it screw anything up if i drilled alot of holes, or rather big holes?

I drilled 2 holes completley thru my clutches that were fairly good sized holes, and it works fine. I really cant tell a whole lot of difference, but it helped a little. Maybe i need another hole. Im leaving it like this though. You shouldnt hurt too much, but i wouldnt drill anymore than 3 fairly big sized holes.

Eric