I just got my new Scellerator and was outside starting it, and it started once, ran for a couple of seconds and died. Now it won't do anything. Alsp, there is a lot more resistance compared to my onroad car's engine. Now I can't get it stated at all. It seems the tightest when the piston is at the top, and gets quite stiff soeitmes. Any reason why this is happeneing, and is this normal?

the compression is becuse you r x cell is new im assuming? tha means you still need to bereak it in set the needles to factory settings and if you dont have them then the lox end should be about 1 1/4 turns out from completley close adn the high end should be fluch with the brass coupler and the idle screw should be set where your cab is 1 mm from closed on brake and no throttle

the x-c has a pull-start right? i had the same problem with my new engine....i was messing around with the idle screw and the low end needle and now it starts after 2 pulls!...just make sure u pull the cord at least 10 inches out...i was pulling my about 7 inches at first, but then i realized i had to pull it at least 10
also make sure ur engine is not flooded, take out the plug, and get all the fuel out of the engine (just turn it over and let the fuel come out)
what i also do is while holding the car with my left hand, i hold the throttle servo with my thumb (while pullin the chord) and let go right after it starts....

I think it might be my glow started because it takes like 10 seconds to get the filament a dull red, with new batteries, so ill get a new one. I ve got all stock settings, so Im good there. I got it to start once, so I know its not faulty. The compression it much higher than on my .15 car engine, I keep thinking its flooded when its not.

Thanks for your help, but I really wished I could drive today.

yea, that definitly sounds like a bettery problem. The compression is because of the stock settings being so INSANELY rich it just gets hydro locked like instantly.... just be careful with it , if its really tough to pull, don't pull it more then 1 or 2 times... mine would ALWAYS start on pull 2. If it doesn't, just do the de-flooding procedure.

mine was actually so rich that it wouldn't even move if I hit the gas from an idle... after about 2 tanks of idling it finally would start to go if I started it out 1st by the throttle trim. It, woul just drown the engine in nitro....

If its that rich, like flooding in a couple a pulls, should i lean it out a tiny bit before break-in?

New batteries and ALL of the coil doesn't glow, and quickly... Clean the end of your plug and starter. If it acts the same, chuck it for a new plug. Save a headache and get a rechargable starter, they last tons longer than alkaline. If you have a charger, perhaps buy C size rechargables to use in it...

Im just going to buy a rechageable today, actually right now.

after you have run 5 or 6 tanks in the engine it will be much easier to pull, i know this cause my friend bought a xcellerator and i broke the engine in for him.

Ok, i just got my new ignitor, its much better, the old one liked to pop off during the process. Just one more q, sorta off teh topic, do trans ore reciever batteries usually die first? b/c my trans has a monitor, and if they die first, ill replace the lot, and it will be safer.

Oh yeah, started it and broken in, very nice truck. Much more fun than on road i think, my RS4 will be sitting in my room for quite a while now. thanks for all your help. Starts on second pull. AWESOME

The TX batteries last longer than the RX batts...

yea, I charge my Rx batteries after everu run. But since its not really drawing a whole lot of current. I think that the Tx will proably last a really long time.

Definitly get either a rechargable reciever pack, or some rechargable AA cells (which is what I'm using right now)

if you cahrge the batts after every run and there not depleted, wont that reduce capacity?

Yes if they are NiCd, no if they are Lithium...