Well anyway, I recently stumbled upon an old RC10GT that I used to have tons of fun with, but stopped using when the one way bearing went out. It is probably 6-7 years old. So I went out and bought the stuff I needed to get it running again, new glow plugs, glow ignitor fuel, one way bearing etc.

Anyway, my problem is that I cant get it to run for more than maybe half a tank of fuel. the engine is a 12 CV with pull start. I *think* it is overheating with the traxxas fuel the guy at the hobby shop said to use. It is 20% nitro and lists no lube amount, and they do not stock any other truck/car fuel. Is there a sure sign to tell? It always starts right up, runs good for a little, then just dies no matter where it seems Im at in the throttle and is unable to be restarted for awhile. If this is indeed the case, what can I do?

If the engine is bad(and cant be reasonably fixed), Im thinking about converting the truck to non pull start with the purchase of an engine. All I need to switch to accomidate this new style is the flywheel, engine mounts, and manifold right? Have been looking at the other threads for what kind of engine is good, and from what I see is listed, go either OS or fantom? .12 or .15? Sorry for all the questions, Im a newbie again

Thankyou for your time, its much appreciated!

John

My guess is the fuel has alot to do with it. Traxxas fuel has more lub in it and is designed for traxxas 2.5 engine. Try to get ahold of some new fuel. I tried some traxxas fuel in mt gt with my nitro star ss and it spit and spuddered. So I run blue thunder for about a year now with no problems.

From what i have gathered the fantoms are a bit better, more power. Go to http://www.fantomracing.com/
Oh click on the Testimonials link and read them all.

Heres some stats.

Fantom - FR15 Racing Engine
Features:


True ABC construction
Turbo design race ported crank
Knife-edge double bushing connecting rod
New rotary carb design features improved idle screw position and high speed needle
New piston design for better performance
Sleeve locating pin
Includes glow plug and air filter

Specifications:


Exhaust: Side
Carburetor: 6.0mm Rotary
Crank: Threaded
Pull Start: Yes
Horsepower: 1.35hp
RPM (max): 43,300
RPM (typical): 39,500
Bore: 15mm
Stroke: 14mm

O.S. .15 CV-R

Displacement: 0.152 cu in (2.49cc)
Bore: 0.598 in (15.2mm)
Stroke: 0.539 in (13.7mm)
Output: 1.2 ps @ 31,000 rpm
Practical rpm range: 4000-36,000
Weight: 6.88/6.82 oz (195/193.2g)



What does ps mean? Under the output.

The fuel I don't believe is an issue, unless the fuel is bad, any fuel should work in any brand engine the same
From your discription, it sounds like it's getting hot and loosing compression
What does the compression feel like when it's cold compared to when it's warm

My guess is you have zero compression as it gets warm, that's why it starts back up again after it cools down.

if the compression is bad a new piston and sleeve for those are cheap, for that matter a whole new engine is cheap.

Good luck

Yeah I believe your right, it does appear to have very little compression when it is warm. Looks like Ill probably just replace the whole engine