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Pull Start -> drill start

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Old 05-08-2004 | 06:04 PM
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From: \'sauga, ON, CANADA
Default Pull Start -> drill start

My pull cord broke on my Dynamite .12 pull start. I was just wondering if I could convert to a drill start?

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Old 05-09-2004 | 04:25 AM
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Default RE: Pull Start -> drill start

i've asked this question in the buggies section on this forum. the answer is yes you can convert the engine to that, but for some reason the turbo fan doesn't like it. you'd probably be better getting another pull start
Old 05-09-2004 | 09:09 AM
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Default RE: Pull Start -> drill start

The reason is, that yank-eliminator (what you use to start it with the drill) comes with an incredibly low quality one-way bearing. This bearing will quickly tear up. I have had 2 and the are POSs. My first broke the second day out. I called Tower to return it and they said no-can-do. I would have to take it up with HGI, the manufacturer. I left 8 phone messages and sent over 10 emails. They have number you can call to talk to anyone. They never returned a call or email. I have heard many others say the same thing. Just a few heard back from HGI, who told them that they did not hold it perfectly parallel and it was their fault it broke. The problem is, it is IMPOSSIBLE to ALWAYS keep the drill parallel, as the truck tends to twist a bit on the compression stroke.

For the same price as the yank eliminator, I got a hand-starter with a rubber donut adapter and it works GREAT. Hook it up to a battery, I use my car, and bump the flywheel through the chassis. It works like a starter box for less than 1/4 of the price!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJC35&P=ML - Hand starter, 19 bucks!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL402&P=V - Donut starter adapter, 4.50!

One P.O.S. Yank-elim. costs 25 bucks!!
Old 05-09-2004 | 09:56 AM
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From: Zachary, LA
Default RE: Pull Start -> drill start

Another problem, that I also found out the hard way, is that most electric drills of the sort used for this activity don't spin fast enough to reliably start the engine. Additionally, the Yank Eliminator isn't long enough; I was grinding rubber off the left rear tire of the RC-10 with the drill chuck.

If you're still determined to try it, I've got a like-new Yank Eliminator I'll sell you for $15 + shipping. They're up to $30 now, new.

If I hadn't gone to new HPI rides, with their excellent Roto-Start, I would taken Frost's advice regarding the starting donut. The Yank Eliminator is a good idea that works fine in certain applications; just not mine...[]

.
Old 05-09-2004 | 10:11 PM
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Default RE: Pull Start -> drill start

Yeah I have a .27 in my Savage that my roto-start backplate from the .25 fit on. I am shopping for a new mill for my ST, and HPI makes the .15 backplates now so I will probably try to go that route with it also.

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