please help..engine stalling
#1
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From: Medina,
OH
ok this is seriously getting annoying
i start my engine, runs for 3 seconds then dies...i tried everything and nothing works. if this has happened to anyone else and if you fixed it please tell me what you did so i can try it because i'm running out of ideas...thanx (btw i have a DTX .18 engine in an evader st)
i start my engine, runs for 3 seconds then dies...i tried everything and nothing works. if this has happened to anyone else and if you fixed it please tell me what you did so i can try it because i'm running out of ideas...thanx (btw i have a DTX .18 engine in an evader st)
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From: Richmond,
VA
ORIGINAL: RC_Racer005
ok this is seriously getting annoying
i start my engine, runs for 3 seconds then dies...i tried everything and nothing works. if this has happened to anyone else and if you fixed it please tell me what you did so i can try it because i'm running out of ideas...thanx (btw i have a DTX .18 engine in an evader st)
ok this is seriously getting annoying
i start my engine, runs for 3 seconds then dies...i tried everything and nothing works. if this has happened to anyone else and if you fixed it please tell me what you did so i can try it because i'm running out of ideas...thanx (btw i have a DTX .18 engine in an evader st)
[on his evader]
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From: Medina,
OH
nitro evader--no i never drove it in winter cause i got the truck like a month ago
nitro dude 90--its been only a month since i got the truck and i only drive it on weekends so i dont think the piston and the sleeve can wear out that quick
evaderman04-- i tryed messing with the needels, but if i turn the idle just a little bit, it idels too high (and still stalls) and when i richen the low speed, the wheels start spinning slowly and when i drive it, the throttle doesnt respond right
how do i kno if the spring is worn out (because i'm at 3/4 of a gallon right now)...is it posible to tell if its worn out when i take it out and look at it?
nitro dude 90--its been only a month since i got the truck and i only drive it on weekends so i dont think the piston and the sleeve can wear out that quick
evaderman04-- i tryed messing with the needels, but if i turn the idle just a little bit, it idels too high (and still stalls) and when i richen the low speed, the wheels start spinning slowly and when i drive it, the throttle doesnt respond right
how do i kno if the spring is worn out (because i'm at 3/4 of a gallon right now)...is it posible to tell if its worn out when i take it out and look at it?
#7
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From: Richmond,
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The stock Evader spring is weakened by merely removing it... When you remove the bell, is it tight, do the shoes move at all outward, or are they firmly held in. At 3/4 of a gallon my bud's quit idling. If you held it low-mid throttle it would run, but slow down and it would die. He replaced the spring and went back to running. You guys that have Evaders, what springs do you run? My friend has had like 4 springs on the stock shoes...
#8
Hey guys,
yesterday I went thru the same thing. the only way to get it started and keep it running...was to start it at 1/4 throttle.
had to keep workin the throttle then it would drive.and when I got it around top speed it would not run smoothly.
Had to keep the throttle on to keep it running. If I let off. It would die.
It, in the past (two weeks ago) after about 3 tanks it would get hard to start.
This engine has never run over 160F.
according to frost. do I just need to change out the clutch spring?
yesterday I went thru the same thing. the only way to get it started and keep it running...was to start it at 1/4 throttle.
had to keep workin the throttle then it would drive.and when I got it around top speed it would not run smoothly.
Had to keep the throttle on to keep it running. If I let off. It would die.
It, in the past (two weeks ago) after about 3 tanks it would get hard to start.
This engine has never run over 160F.
according to frost. do I just need to change out the clutch spring?
#9
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From: Anaheim,
CA
Also make sure that the two screws that mount to the engine to the manifold are securely tightend...Might sound wierd but i had the same problem with my car dieing on me as well found out it was only the screws that were loose but in the end nearly burned up my motor...Had to replace the manifold gasket and the two screws...
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From: PerthWestern Australia, AUSTRALIA
Hey man sounds like you are running it too cold. Make it run at about 190 at least. I killed 2 mach 15's in a very short time cause i had it running way to rich. Cause i didnt have a temp gun :/ I am sorry to say but you might need a rebuild.
ORIGINAL: RayRayraycer20
Hey guys,
yesterday I went thru the same thing. the only way to get it started and keep it running...was to start it at 1/4 throttle.
had to keep workin the throttle then it would drive.and when I got it around top speed it would not run smoothly.
Had to keep the throttle on to keep it running. If I let off. It would die.
It, in the past (two weeks ago) after about 3 tanks it would get hard to start.
This engine has never run over 160F.
according to frost. do I just need to change out the clutch spring?
Hey guys,
yesterday I went thru the same thing. the only way to get it started and keep it running...was to start it at 1/4 throttle.
had to keep workin the throttle then it would drive.and when I got it around top speed it would not run smoothly.
Had to keep the throttle on to keep it running. If I let off. It would die.
It, in the past (two weeks ago) after about 3 tanks it would get hard to start.
This engine has never run over 160F.
according to frost. do I just need to change out the clutch spring?
#11
yea, to me it sounds like you don't have any compression... I don't see what the clutch would do with the engine stalling, this doesn't sound like the symptoms of a bad clutch to me...
when an engine loses compression, it won't idle any longer.
and like jonnyd said, don't run it at that low of a temp, I used to run mine as rich as I could, while it would still run... mine almost made it to gallon #3 before it died, I can now take my piston and push it in the sleeve, and out the other side... running too rich can cause premature-wear
when an engine loses compression, it won't idle any longer.
and like jonnyd said, don't run it at that low of a temp, I used to run mine as rich as I could, while it would still run... mine almost made it to gallon #3 before it died, I can now take my piston and push it in the sleeve, and out the other side... running too rich can cause premature-wear
#12
Thanks guys for the comments
GEEZE.....Ya try not to run it too lean....ta save the engine and ya "F" It up any way....Good thing it still under warranty...
Maybe I'll lean the hell out of it for a few thrill's, seize it up and send it in for a new one.[>:]
Kinda pisses me off tho....
I have a temp gage too...and have posted before about the low temps, and no one said anything about runnin too cool....NOW I KNOW...
Frost was sayin on his friend's evader when the clutch spring would go It would'nt idle.
mine seems to have compression...when tuggin on the pullstart it seems to have good resistance....when I turn the flywheel (to work the after run oil in) at the top of the stroke it has a decent "thump"
oh well........................
GEEZE.....Ya try not to run it too lean....ta save the engine and ya "F" It up any way....Good thing it still under warranty...
Maybe I'll lean the hell out of it for a few thrill's, seize it up and send it in for a new one.[>:]
Kinda pisses me off tho....
I have a temp gage too...and have posted before about the low temps, and no one said anything about runnin too cool....NOW I KNOW...
Frost was sayin on his friend's evader when the clutch spring would go It would'nt idle.
mine seems to have compression...when tuggin on the pullstart it seems to have good resistance....when I turn the flywheel (to work the after run oil in) at the top of the stroke it has a decent "thump"
oh well........................



