So here's the story.



I got my nitro rush about 2 years ago from the safty guy on a high rise building I was working on in Chicago. He had it stored in his closit for a year or so & I picked it up for a little over $100. It was all stock & ran OK but needed a little help. I added titanium turnbuckles, A ball diff, mip cvd's, heavy duty middle gear, RS4 SS racing fuel tank, Dynomite pipe, & a Wasp .12 engine. It ripped pretty good at this point but was still a little heavy so I got the carbon upper chassis & it lost about a pound with just that. I then heard about a titanium chassis from f4iracing, checked it out & ordered it. When I installed it the truck seamed pretty bullit proof at that time.





Barb & I then took her kids ( Brian-17 & Eileen-14 ) to Cincinatti to see her mother for a 1 week vacation. I brought my rush & Brian brought his ultima evo so we could race out there. While we where racing I took a full speed run down the parkway & as I started to cross the neighbors driveway I heard a solid SLAM & my truck went about 5 feet straight up in the air & flew about 10 feet further down the parkway before landing & coming to a rest. What it hit was where the neighbors would pull into their drive way just next to the cement but on the grass. It was about 7 or so inches deep & I slammed it topped out. When I inspected my truck all 4 front bulkhead screws had blown out never to be found. Also the upper graphite chassis had shatterd.





The suprising thing is that the titanium main chassis was completly undamaged, not even a scratch. That thing is pretty tough. When I got home I contacted Larry from f4iracing & had him send me his titanium upper chassis & he modded it to fit the laydown steering setup I had installed as an extra, no charge for the extra cutting.



When I got the new upper chassis & installed it I noticed the the spur gear was trashed from the crash also.




I did some research & found that the Robinson steel spur gear for the savage would fit the rush so I installed that.



Now this little rush is toughened, lightened & ready to take on all RC10s & Losi's.
So thats the story of the Titanium Nitro Rush.

Larry makes titanium parts for most HPI nitros & it is exellent quality.
http://www.f4iracing.com

Here's the list of parts on my rush,
Titanium upper & lower chassis,
Wasp .12 se/ps engine,
GPM aluminum shock towers & rear chassis brace,
HPI ball differential, RS4-3 racing fuel tank, Heavy duty middle tranny gear, aluminum rear uprights,
Dynomite pipe,
Duratrax shocks,
Lundsford & HPI titanium turnbuckles,
RC10GT steering bell cranks,
MIP shinny CVDs,
aluminum clutch,
Masher tires,
Ofna fuel filter/primer,
Robinson racing Savage steel spur gear & clutch bell.
I think that covers it.

Cool truck!

how much did that titanium chassis cost?

80 for the chassi and 45 for the upper deck...

wanna her suthin crazy ??? graphite aka carbon fiber is 80 percent lighter than titanium....

The graphite is lighter but it shatters in a hard crash, The thick titanium just shrugs it off. I bash more than I race so the weight penelty is worth it for me.

That is one of the most tricked out Rushs I have ever seen. I might be buying some parts for my Rush from 'Larry'!

Where did you find a metal spur gear?

It's the Robinson racing spur gear for the savage.

A very trick rush indeed. I have a question. I have the rush evo, and it is spitting up the bevel gears left and right, bone stock from the factory. Were you the one that mentioned you had a ball diff in yours? And if so, please tell me where it came from? And while I'm at it, I also have a Duratrax overdrive with an os cvr 15, and gladiator tires on it all around, this beast is tearing up pinion gears faster then I can put them in. Any ideas. At this point all help is apprecieated. Thanks $ircra$halot Garry

Purty.

The ball diff is from HPI & is a rush part. As for your pinion gears, try one from a different manufacturer & make sure you set the mesh right. Maybe Duratrax is using a soft material that can't handle the power. If it has a slipper clutch try losening it a little also.

Thank you cousingrandpa. I will have to look on the hpi site again for the ball diff. I am known to look straight at something and not see it. As for the overdrive pinion gears, I've
tried RPM, Lunsford, HG and Robinson, and cannot find pinion gears for the overdrive st. keep in mind I may have already looked at them 3 or 4 times might you be able to suggest some other company's to try. It is possible I did not get the mesh set right, I set it as tight as I could get it without binding. Thanks again $ircra$halot Garry

I used to own that truck, not many hop ups available aftermarket that is.. Duratrax has lots, you can try stuff from like The Maxium ST maybe even evader, although the Evader is a newer truck. The Clutchbell for the ODST seems like a 1/8 buggy clutchbell.
maybe look at traxxas, or... perhaps even another duratrax. Are you burning out the bearings? if you are then your mesh is too tight.

I was afraid of that, that is, the absence of aftermarket parts. No it's not burning the bearings. I suspect maybe the added height, and weight of the gladiator tires might have something to do with it. I may have to go back to the original tires and put a different spring in the trans, with the original everything, except the engine, it shifts to soon after you gas it, it shifts immeadiately, so soon you can't even tell it has a 2-speed, where as stock, it would not shift at all unless you backed off the tranny adjustment to the point it was all but falling out. I live in Colo. Springs Co. at 6000 feet plus, and things don't run quite as good up here as they do at sea level, keeps me guessing! Thanks for the input, if you think of anything else I am always open to suggestion. Thanks again $ircra$alot Garry

verry nice bottom CHASSIS ammazing it diddnt snap along with the other one!

Hi cousingrandpa

hope i am not too outdated. Your Rush is cool! Do you get the original RC10GT steering cranks or the one by RPM? I need some advice on what turnbuckles to use with the RC10GT steering cranks. Hope you can help

Thank you!

nice toy do you or anyone no if they make a aluminum rollbar for the rush?
or any aluminum parts

Hey Cousin with the set up you got how much speed you getting?

ummm carbon fiber is woven...which if u had real carbon fiber u would be able to withstand crashes liek that...especially form a rush...u were what going like 30-35mph and u launched it and it broke....carbon fiber would withstand that if it were real

my friend can bend his cf hood for his car in half without it snapping...its insanely strong

With carbon fiber this thin it will & did snap, take a close look at the pics. Your buddy's hood is a lot thicker & most hoods are mostly fiberglass with 1 or 2 layers of Cf. I'm looking into a CF hood for my audi & have seen plenty of them on cars. I personaly wouldn't want a flimsy hood that can bend that easy on my car, I'm going to get a good Vis hood when I get one.

CG you always have the nicest schizz of anyone here.... looking good as always.

You guys should jump over to the Savage forum and see his big trucks....... $$$$$$$$

[sm=eek.gif] very nice rush, I just got my first toy, rush evo, hobby shop guy said there was very little hop ups for it, hmmm, looks like there are ways to hop it up to me. lol.
My truck is all stock, well, bigger springs in rear and a 15 tooth bell on it. Now its time to hook it up.
Fast question, my rush runs great, low end and top, but if it dies (flip kills it or other wise) I have to put the glow stick on it, I cant just put the roto start in and crank it over, should I be able to start it up once its hot, 220-240 without the glow stick?
Thanks for the help, any advice?

nope gotta use the glow driver every time

Very nice rush m8. Where did you get the titanium turnbuckles from, i can't seem to find them anywhere and are they worth it.
Cheers

At first I got the ones HPI sells & bent one in a hole I found in a nearby park, they removed a tree & didn"t fill the hole. I replaced them with lundsford ti turnbuckles after that.