Suspension Question... ??
#1
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From: California
Greetings,
I wanted to know what suspensions and shocks are good for the RC10GT?? like, is there any brand that has a good reputation on making shocks for associated?
Also, I use my RC10GT for both, on-road and off-road, and what I do is that I only change the tires but, I need to get a new set of suspension for off-road because each time I want to run, I have to change the oil on the shocks [
] So what I want to do is to get a set of shocks for off-road and a set of shocks for on-road. Also, whats a good combination of oils for each, on and off-road?
Thanks Guys, Heres a picture of my RC10GT
I wanted to know what suspensions and shocks are good for the RC10GT?? like, is there any brand that has a good reputation on making shocks for associated?
Also, I use my RC10GT for both, on-road and off-road, and what I do is that I only change the tires but, I need to get a new set of suspension for off-road because each time I want to run, I have to change the oil on the shocks [
] So what I want to do is to get a set of shocks for off-road and a set of shocks for on-road. Also, whats a good combination of oils for each, on and off-road?Thanks Guys, Heres a picture of my RC10GT
#2
What kind of body is that....? looks awesome.
if u want a set for on and off road just get the same shocks and set them up diffrently. :]
if u want a set for on and off road just get the same shocks and set them up diffrently. :]
#3
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From: California
Greetings ICRASHTHINGS,
Thats a GMC Silverado body, its custom painted. It has 5 colors in it
BTW: Do you think the same shocks are the best option?? and if so, where can I get them at a good price?
Thanks.
Thats a GMC Silverado body, its custom painted. It has 5 colors in it

BTW: Do you think the same shocks are the best option?? and if so, where can I get them at a good price?
Thanks.
#6
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From: Richmond,
VA
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
#7
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From: California
Greetings Frost,
I also need a set of shocks for off-road use. Im going to compete in off-road tracks, and I need some good shocks. My RC10GT currently has blue shocks but I saw that The RC10GT TEAM FACTORY comes with grey shocks, do you know the difference between these shocks??
And also, do you know where I can find the blue Associated shocks?
Thanks.
I also need a set of shocks for off-road use. Im going to compete in off-road tracks, and I need some good shocks. My RC10GT currently has blue shocks but I saw that The RC10GT TEAM FACTORY comes with grey shocks, do you know the difference between these shocks??
And also, do you know where I can find the blue Associated shocks?
Thanks.
#8
ORIGINAL: Frost_
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
Here ya go proj
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCJE7&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCJE8&P=7
Theres not really a diffrences betweeen the 2. I have both and dont notice anything.
Edit:Get these for front:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2887&P=7
And these for rear:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2890&P=7
When offroading. [8D]
#9
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From: Richmond,
VA
ORIGINAL: ICrashThings
yea they are shorter, they are buggy shocks...[&:]
ORIGINAL: Frost_
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2585&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2587&P=7
These are team shocks but a little shorter... For on-road these would be IDEAL.
Like I said, I got the links from another forum, I haven't run them, but they should be worth considering. They didn't seem like BSers.
#10
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From: California
Thanks Guys...
Can you tell me the difference between the color of the shocks??
And also, I didnt quite understand which shocks where good for on-road. So what combination is good?? Like what shocks with what springs??
Thanks
Can you tell me the difference between the color of the shocks??
And also, I didnt quite understand which shocks where good for on-road. So what combination is good?? Like what shocks with what springs??
Thanks
#12
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From: Marquette,
MI
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
#13
ORIGINAL: Memopad
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
If i were to put my greens back on the rear...i would have more problems with my GT. lol.
#14
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From: Marquette,
MI
True. But at speed too stiff of suspension will get the truck bouncing and you'll go flying out of control as well. Always a compromise to find the right balance [:-]
#16
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From: California
Hi,
How many degress I have to set on the rear arms?? Like, I was told that I should use -3 degress or something like that...
Can you tell me how it works??
How many degress I have to set on the rear arms?? Like, I was told that I should use -3 degress or something like that...
Can you tell me how it works??
#17
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From: Austin,
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ORIGINAL: Memopad
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
There is a "HUGE" Difference between the Blue shocks and the Team Shocks!!!!! The blue shocks are NOT hard annodized and will wear quicker and bend easier than the hard annodized grey team shocks. The grey team shocks are made from a stronger aluminum alloy than the blue ready to run shocks. The blue shocks are made from the same soft aluminum as the gold shocks that associated used to include on their budget cars and trucks but they are now annodized blue instead of gold.
#19
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From: California
Thanks for the information guys.. 
How many degress I have to set on the rear arms?? Like, I was told that I should use -3 degress or something like that...
Can you tell me how it works??

How many degress I have to set on the rear arms?? Like, I was told that I should use -3 degress or something like that...
Can you tell me how it works??
#21
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From: Marquette,
MI
ORIGINAL: dalosiman
There is a "HUGE" Difference between the Blue shocks and the Team Shocks!!!!! The blue shocks are NOT hard annodized and will wear quicker and bend easier than the hard annodized grey team shocks. The grey team shocks are made from a stronger aluminum alloy than the blue ready to run shocks. The blue shocks are made from the same soft aluminum as the gold shocks that associated used to include on their budget cars and trucks but they are now annodized blue instead of gold.
ORIGINAL: Memopad
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
Jeeze....
As Frost suggested for ONROAD driving use front shocks in front and the rear. This will lower the ride height. For onroad driving use a heavy weight oil, with soft springs.
When offroading, use the standard front shocks and the standard rear shocks, usually 30-40 weight oil is a good place to start. I'd run silver in the front and green in the back to start with. ICT likes really stiff suspension for some reason so he uses red in the back, but he's just a basher
Mostly its trial and error, nobody can set up your suspension except yourself, but as for actually shock bodies, the ones frost suggested for onroad driving will work well for onroad, and the standard ones for offroad.
Oh and there isn't a difference in the blue shocks and the grey shocks besides the color. Just make sure you get the hard anodized shocks because they're better.
There is a "HUGE" Difference between the Blue shocks and the Team Shocks!!!!! The blue shocks are NOT hard annodized and will wear quicker and bend easier than the hard annodized grey team shocks. The grey team shocks are made from a stronger aluminum alloy than the blue ready to run shocks. The blue shocks are made from the same soft aluminum as the gold shocks that associated used to include on their budget cars and trucks but they are now annodized blue instead of gold.
Thanks for correcting me, i think i realized the blue shocks weren't hard after i posted, and i forgot to change it.
#22
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From: Austin,
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I usually run 2 degree rear pivot block on my XXX NT. The more degrees you run the more straight line stability you 'll get but you sacrifice a small amount of top end and you'll also sacrifice a small amount of cornering ability. Its all about personal preference and track conditions.



