Quick question... I have an OS Max .12 Cv-x(s) on an rc10gt factory team... I've had it for a while now... a few years, and recently the engine is difficult to start. Seems as though I have no compression, and sometimes when the pull start is used, the pull starter doesn't 'grab' every "rotation" (you'll feel it crank a few times and then it's loose to pull all the way to completley extended. At first i thought it was the one way bearing in the pull start assembly, so i replaced it. To no avail the problem persisted. Now I'm starting to think it's my piston sleeve. Anyone got any ideas? It's getting frustrating to start!! [:@]

take it all apart and post pic thats what id do



-Ryan

Aside from hard starting... does it run how constantly and have a tendency to flame out? When you spin the flywheel over do hear that 'thump' that you used to? When you spin it over do you feel resistance on the compression stroke?

If some of these are also issues than your piston/sleeve may be shot... How much fuel has been run through it? Typical life for these engines will be 4-7 gallons, give or take, depending on a number of things.

I've probably had close to 2-3 gallons of fuel through it... running 20% Blue Thunder... *thinks to self*... I do feel resistance on the compresion stroke, I dont think i've ever had it flame out actually... (except for the one time i accidentally COMPLETLEY submerged the car and it got hydro locked). I dont know what you mean by the thump? It just sounds bogged down almost... doesn't have the same crisp sound.. takes forever to start first time, but once it has been running and warmed up i can get it restarted piece of cake. Also, if the piston sleeve is "stuck" in the engine, how do you reccomend getting it out without scratching/damaging it? Or does this involved taking out the crank and pushing from the bottom?

thanks for the help guys... keep it coming!

Don't take it out just yet....

That Blue Thunder fuel contains LOTS of oil and can make cold starts difficult...

What plug are you running? With that fuel I would say to run a hot plug. For OS I would say an A3... or a #8 if you want to spend the coin, although the A3 is a tad warmer.

If it isn't running hot regardless of tune, flaming out, and EASY to turn the flywheel all the way over with a finger... it's most likely got some life left.

I'm runnin "the Real McCoy" plugs... whatever the equivalent of the a5 is (hot). The list of things you mentioned at the end there (flaming out, not hot, etc) they luckily aren't an issue... yet


Could it just be that I have some old... thick... oil sitting in the crank, or it just needs to be cleaned really well?

I don't know what to tell you, but it doesn't sound shot...

Try a different blend of fuel... pick a RACE blend, you'll be suprised by the difference.

So what about that piston sleeve? How would I get it out of there? Reason being i'm hesitant to take the engine off of the car... the damn screws that were provided with my kit are the cheapass aluminum ones that have horrible heads... getting close to stripped, and they tend to be a little tight due to vibration. Also, to temporarily hijack this thread... was reading your posts about the OS and Epic port/polish jobs... and have been thinking about doing that for a while... When something like that is done, I'm assuming the objective is smoother air flow, less turbulence. Is there a writeup online somewhere on how to do this? I am capeable of doing this, but need to know what i'm needing to change specificially so i dont F up the engine

Any help would be appreciated!!

your flywheel may be loose. I recently stripped my rush evo down and whilst doing so realized that my flywheel was a bit loose. mine usually took a while to start when cold. after re-building on first start tugging the pull starter felt perfect and it started on 2nd pull. Check ur flywheel. also I use a lead acid glow heater. it is twice as effective as the usual std ones.

Steve.

Would I be able to tell just by touching/trying to move it while it was on the truck? It honestly doesn't feel loose to me at all. I'm thinking about just rebuilding the engine... cleaning everything, and re-lubing the whole kit n' kaboodle.

i would recommend a os # 8 glowplug, its more money but they last longer and work alot better....i think ur problem is just ur glowplug/fuel...i seem to have a little trouble getting it to start first time but it does great after warmed up

i run odonnel racing fuel

Unfortunately there are sporadic engine-specific articles which detail things like timing/duration changes that don't carry over to other mills... For me, I just know what to look for, and I stay away from things that change intake/exhaust/spark timing and port duration unless I have read something specific about the engine. My mods work to get the most fuel and air in, which in turn will help get the exhaust out. You need an eye for air-flow obstructions and minimizing these.

Is it really as easy as it sounds? I dont want to over simplify this, but if you know what direction the air is going as soon as it leaves the sleeve, or right before it goes in the sleeve... and you know that the edges are rough, couldn't I just slightly make them smoother, and then use mothers metal polish to get it nice and smooth?

You need a dremel and a specific assortment of bits.

Well start listin! I have two dremels... a "high power version" and a "weak @$$" version... i have everything from grinding bits, to hardened tungsteon carbide grinders (for hardened steel) to sanders, polishing bits, diamond-tip jewelers drillbits, and a bunch of others... any in particular that i'd need?

I still haven't committed to this project yet, but i'm trying to scope it out and see what all is involved. I'm perfectly ok with buying a new sleeve when I mess up big time... Thats how you learn!

The 'tear countours' and the intake edges had rough stock taken off first with the carbide cutter. This was used for the initial taper at the bottom as well (the "rough" pics in the epic18 thread). The carbide cutter was then used to remove material and define the side-lines of the boost port.

The next part of grinding/shaping is done with a rubberized stone. The rest of the stock is removed more finely with this. Finish out the grinding at the ports and bottom contour (LEAVE THE EXHAUST PORT ALONE!) with this. Again, don't worry about the rough finish.

Once all of the grinding/material removing is done use the wire-brush wheel. Use this all over your porting to clean up the rough. It will remove even minor streak-type gouges if you went over with the carbide cutter, or if it left swirl marks at the edges. It will get to a point that it is still rough, but better.

Now use the sculpted poshing tip and polishing compound. This will make the rough porting SMOOTH... Use this on the whole outer sleeve, including the taper. Remove the compound with a rag, not a felt wheel. THe felt wheels can get grabby and the screw in the end could be pulled onto the outside of the sleeve.

The porting inside the block is a rough cut and wire brush... it ends there.

Through all of this take extra care not to touch the inside of the sleeve with ANY tools.

Thanks! I'll see what I can get done, and then I'll post some pics!