just wondering what it means when it feels like the pullstarter isn't grabbing onto the engine to turn it over.

So i would pull on it and only here one puff and would have to return it to original position to here only one puff again....what is this a sign of?

I would say the one way bearing is bad. An easy fix. costs around 3$ I should think. some times if you just cleen it with carb cleen it works to.

anyone have a diagram of the pull starter that comes on the rtr rc10gt....didn't hold the spring in and everything fell out when i was cleaning up my one way. Can't figure out how to put it back together.

thanks
mike

ouch.
if your spring came unsprung, it's a LOT easier to spring the $20 for the new PS, unless you're good at winding that spring back together.

How much use ahs your engine had??

I have the same problems, it's usually caused by a worn one way and starter shaft bushing, allowing fuel to leak into the oneway.....

I just make sure I have no fuel left in the tank at the end of the day...then i have no problem.

when i had my stock rusty with the trx .15 the one way bearing was worn and i had to clean it every time i drove it so i bought a new one and it didnt last that long till it was slipping again, so if you buy a new bearing and it still slips its probably the bushing is worn and to much oil from the engine is leaking throgh it and getting in the one way bearing, also i heard that if you store the car at an angle so the oil runs towards the flywheel it wont slip at startup and my O.S. started to slip when starting it and i started storing it at an angle and it hasnt slipped since

Thanks for the angle tip! Nothing seems to piss me off more than having to remove/clean the pullstarter/oneway...also the starter cord gets soaked in horrible black crap...

I have a mach .15 engine and I hate it. the one way bearing is in the crank case first of all so there no chance of the bearing grabbing. I can remember how many times I have had to replace that pull start rope because it is so thin. the other day the spring came out on me.... i spent about 1hr getting the darn thing back together. I Have to take the pull start off every time I want to start it. when it has already been running if I zing the pull starter REALLY fast it will grab for a tiny bit and it usually starts.

If the bearing is in the pull start housing I have found that if you put a hole in the top of the housing and one in the bottom, I shoot a jet of carb cleen doun in there. It makes it grab quite nicley.

I got sick of messing around with the pullstart on my RC10GT so I got a TigerDrive. Best money I ever spent for my truck. You have to get the hex-drive shaft also for it. It will work with any high RPM electric drill, like a good Dewalt(or an electric RC starter) I already had the drill so it was a no brainer. No blisters, and no starter boxes/batteries to worry about. The TigerDrive also has a 1-way bearing on it like the stock pullstart, but it has never given me any problems. When I put it on, I used some gasket sealer around all of the contact points to the engine case. Just make sure that the drill you are using has torque settings, because if you use the drill at full torque and the engine hydro-locks, you could bend the connecting rod. You also have to make sure that it's adjusted correctly so that the teeth on the gears mesh well.

IMO it's a great product and it gets an A+ from me because of it's quality of construction, ease of installation, good reliability and ease of use. It sure beats a pull-start or a starter box.

On my Sport NT the oneway kinda slips, but thats from the excessive oil build up. I never had this problem on my other Pullstart engines mainly because of the way the pullstart is built. Not all are the same. When I go to start up the Mach nowadays I usually get one pop, but after 2 or 3 tugs it starts up. Super reliable engine and offers good power out of the box. Still want an RB C12 in that thing though.