DuraTrax Nitro Evader RTR (plus what else?)
#1
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From: perth, AUSTRALIA
Hey.
Im going to buy a nitro evader from tower hobbies. I was wondering what else should i get with it coz ill have extra $$$ left over coz tower is soo much cheaper then my LHS. Well i wanna get some Proline Masher 2000's, umm a Venom VHS Failsafe Unit, and what else do u think i should get. i high torque metal geared servo? aluminium shock tower mounts? well i dont reall wanna spen more than 400 USD.
Thanks for ya help.
-Mikey [>:]
Im going to buy a nitro evader from tower hobbies. I was wondering what else should i get with it coz ill have extra $$$ left over coz tower is soo much cheaper then my LHS. Well i wanna get some Proline Masher 2000's, umm a Venom VHS Failsafe Unit, and what else do u think i should get. i high torque metal geared servo? aluminium shock tower mounts? well i dont reall wanna spen more than 400 USD.
Thanks for ya help.
-Mikey [>:]
#2
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From: Parkland, FL
Get some after run engine oil, a rechargeable glo-ignitor with meter, a couple of OS #8 glow plugs since during break-in the original one will die, air filter oil, the deluxe wrench so you can change the glo-plug etc, a package of air filter elements, and a temp gauge.
All these are low cost items excpet the temp gauge about $29 USD but all good items to have. I would go with the OFNA fail-safe myself. I would hold off the high torque servo and aluminium shock towers at first and get them when you need them or maybe get just the servo at first. Up to you. I bought my hi torque servo at my LHS when the original stripped, I lke to spend some money with the lhs just in case I need help/favor.
If you don't have them get a good med-small phillips and straight screw driver and a set of good hex wrenches.
Enjoy your Evader, I have one and love it and have no problems with it except the lack of time to run it.
All these are low cost items excpet the temp gauge about $29 USD but all good items to have. I would go with the OFNA fail-safe myself. I would hold off the high torque servo and aluminium shock towers at first and get them when you need them or maybe get just the servo at first. Up to you. I bought my hi torque servo at my LHS when the original stripped, I lke to spend some money with the lhs just in case I need help/favor.
If you don't have them get a good med-small phillips and straight screw driver and a set of good hex wrenches.
Enjoy your Evader, I have one and love it and have no problems with it except the lack of time to run it.
#3
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From: perth, AUSTRALIA
so how do u get the glow plugs out?
whata are air filter elements?
and what bout mashers [>:] ?
whata are air filter elements?
and what bout mashers [>:] ?
#5
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From: perth, AUSTRALIA
yeahs thats what i thought.
how long they last? stick nitro evader ones?
coz i wanna use these [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCB27&P=M[/link]
and light em up with these [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN90&P=7[/link]
does u guys know if they will both work well?
or do i need the glow starter withy the long tube?
how long they last? stick nitro evader ones?
coz i wanna use these [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCB27&P=M[/link]
and light em up with these [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN90&P=7[/link]
does u guys know if they will both work well?
or do i need the glow starter withy the long tube?
#9
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From: Parkland, FL
That glo starter is fine, I would get the one with a meter as it will show you when your plug has gone bad - Red = Bad if the battery in the starter is charged.
That is the OS #8 plug I mentioned, it is a great plug and should last a while but you never know how long that just die hence the need for the meter. You need the wrench to remove the plug and it is a better quality wrench tah what comes with the NEST.
Get the failsafe. There is a throttle return spring and it works fine but it is better to be sure and have the failsafe too. The failsafe will put the brake on in case of radio failure.
I don't know about the mashers personally but I am planning to buy them next. The people who have them on this thread say they are good, and that is good enough for me.
That is the OS #8 plug I mentioned, it is a great plug and should last a while but you never know how long that just die hence the need for the meter. You need the wrench to remove the plug and it is a better quality wrench tah what comes with the NEST.
Get the failsafe. There is a throttle return spring and it works fine but it is better to be sure and have the failsafe too. The failsafe will put the brake on in case of radio failure.
I don't know about the mashers personally but I am planning to buy them next. The people who have them on this thread say they are good, and that is good enough for me.
#10
I have had my evader since christmas, and have around a gallon through it.
Here's a list of things i've upgraded or added:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBZ9&P=7]Rechargeable Reciever Pack[/link], as soon as the original batteries died. No buying stupid alkalines for me.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ07&P=ML]HP Glow ignitor[/link] works much better than the original, i like how it fastens on better than the twist on, and it looks kinda stylish too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML]S3305 Steering servo[/link] adds a lot of grunt to the steering. Metal geared for durability in crashes. There may be a better servo out there for this (lots of people like the hitek 625 and 645's) but the futaba is a direct drop in. Hiteks take a little modification.
Transmitter rechargeable batteries. I got duracell 2300 NiMH, but NiCads would probably work well. I've yet to drain more than a quarter of the capacity of these guys before recharging.
Charging 8 tx cells evenly was a problem for me so i got [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML]Duratrax Digital peak charger[/link], it charges up to 8 cells. (after i got the right connector, i just plug it right into my transmitter) I charge both my tx and rx batteries with this. If i decide to get an electric car (already in the works) this will do nicely to charge the main power packs too. The price on this is right too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM92&P=ML]Multi-use tires[/link]. The lhs guy recommended these as good on/off road tires, and i now agree. I didn't want to wreck the nice stock tires that came with the evader, so i put these guys on for general purpose bashing, and i'll save the stockers for serious competition (with friends, or in a race if i decide to do that). I put these tires on duratrax wheels, which have cracked and i'm not really happy with, so i may go with rpm wheels next time.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLY17&P=7]Exhaust diverter[/link] to keep your body and wheels clean. This isn't the exact one i have, but it shows what it is.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWF3&P=7]Aluminum diff gear[/link] i just put it in, so i can't comment on it too much. Aluminum idler gear is on it's way too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTW1&P=7]RPM front bumper[/link] isn't a direct fit, but isn't too hard to make work. Better protection for the front suspension.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESA8&P=ML]Aluminum brake nut[/link]. I've heard the stock plastic is weak, and the aluminum is cheap, so i replaced it.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML]Temp gun[/link] came in handy while tuning the engine. I've since misplaced it, and have switched to a different fuel, so i'm playing it by ear until i find my temp gun.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD574&P=ML]Deluxe Car wrench[/link] mostly i use on the glow plugs, but it's nice on them, good firm grip, and has a springy thing inside to hang onto the plug
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSM58&P=ML]Pit stand[/link] is very handy while working on the car. Packs up pretty small too.
I've also ballooned my shocks to keep out dirt, and balloon my servos and receiver to keep out water (from the snow). I had servos go glitchy because they got wet.
Failsafe is still on my list.
That's all i can remember for now.
Here's a list of things i've upgraded or added:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBZ9&P=7]Rechargeable Reciever Pack[/link], as soon as the original batteries died. No buying stupid alkalines for me.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ07&P=ML]HP Glow ignitor[/link] works much better than the original, i like how it fastens on better than the twist on, and it looks kinda stylish too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML]S3305 Steering servo[/link] adds a lot of grunt to the steering. Metal geared for durability in crashes. There may be a better servo out there for this (lots of people like the hitek 625 and 645's) but the futaba is a direct drop in. Hiteks take a little modification.
Transmitter rechargeable batteries. I got duracell 2300 NiMH, but NiCads would probably work well. I've yet to drain more than a quarter of the capacity of these guys before recharging.
Charging 8 tx cells evenly was a problem for me so i got [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML]Duratrax Digital peak charger[/link], it charges up to 8 cells. (after i got the right connector, i just plug it right into my transmitter) I charge both my tx and rx batteries with this. If i decide to get an electric car (already in the works) this will do nicely to charge the main power packs too. The price on this is right too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM92&P=ML]Multi-use tires[/link]. The lhs guy recommended these as good on/off road tires, and i now agree. I didn't want to wreck the nice stock tires that came with the evader, so i put these guys on for general purpose bashing, and i'll save the stockers for serious competition (with friends, or in a race if i decide to do that). I put these tires on duratrax wheels, which have cracked and i'm not really happy with, so i may go with rpm wheels next time.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLY17&P=7]Exhaust diverter[/link] to keep your body and wheels clean. This isn't the exact one i have, but it shows what it is.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWF3&P=7]Aluminum diff gear[/link] i just put it in, so i can't comment on it too much. Aluminum idler gear is on it's way too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTW1&P=7]RPM front bumper[/link] isn't a direct fit, but isn't too hard to make work. Better protection for the front suspension.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESA8&P=ML]Aluminum brake nut[/link]. I've heard the stock plastic is weak, and the aluminum is cheap, so i replaced it.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML]Temp gun[/link] came in handy while tuning the engine. I've since misplaced it, and have switched to a different fuel, so i'm playing it by ear until i find my temp gun.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD574&P=ML]Deluxe Car wrench[/link] mostly i use on the glow plugs, but it's nice on them, good firm grip, and has a springy thing inside to hang onto the plug
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSM58&P=ML]Pit stand[/link] is very handy while working on the car. Packs up pretty small too.
I've also ballooned my shocks to keep out dirt, and balloon my servos and receiver to keep out water (from the snow). I had servos go glitchy because they got wet.
Failsafe is still on my list.
That's all i can remember for now.
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From: Greer,
SC
That list looks good though i would not buy that servo it is far to slow you want somethin with roughly 90 oz.-in. of tourque and a .15 or lower transit. Other than that the list looks good though you probably don't need all of that.
#12
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From: Fresno,
CA
How long does that #8 plug last in comparison to say the Duratrax Carbon one?
And is this fail safe good enough? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHLV3&P=ML
And is this fail safe good enough? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHLV3&P=ML
#13
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From: Coraopolis,
PA
get a high torque steering servo...u will need it with mashers for better turning
that duratrax fail safe looks fine
get some #8 glowplugs....order a few cuz its cheaper online and they last a good while
maybe a temp guage
rechargable 5 cell hump pack nimh with a charger
that duratrax fail safe looks fine
get some #8 glowplugs....order a few cuz its cheaper online and they last a good while
maybe a temp guage
rechargable 5 cell hump pack nimh with a charger
#14
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From: perth, AUSTRALIA
So far on my Tower Hobbies cart i have:
1. Duratrax Nitro Evader ST RTR
2. Ofna Micro Fail Safe Unit
3. Pro-Line Masher 2000 Monster Truck (2)
4. DuraTrax Deluxe Car Wrench
5. Tower Hobbies Tower Power Glo-Starter Standard w/o Meter
6. O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long Medium Hot (3)
7. RPM Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome Traxxas Nitro (4)
What else do u think i need, or what dont u think i need?
1. Duratrax Nitro Evader ST RTR
2. Ofna Micro Fail Safe Unit
3. Pro-Line Masher 2000 Monster Truck (2)
4. DuraTrax Deluxe Car Wrench
5. Tower Hobbies Tower Power Glo-Starter Standard w/o Meter
6. O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long Medium Hot (3)
7. RPM Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome Traxxas Nitro (4)
What else do u think i need, or what dont u think i need?
#15
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From: Parkland, FL
Order it and save the rest of your money for later, when you see what you like or need.
Stop talking about it and pull trigger!
Stop talking about it and pull trigger!
#16
You guys that are running this DuraTrax Nitro Evader BX RTR, can model airplane fuel Wildcat 10% be used? Or is there something special about nitro car fuel?
#17
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From: Sammamish,
WA
ORIGINAL: gerwen
I have had my evader since christmas, and have around a gallon through it.
Here's a list of things i've upgraded or added:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBZ9&P=7]Rechargeable Reciever Pack[/link], as soon as the original batteries died. No buying stupid alkalines for me.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ07&P=ML]HP Glow ignitor[/link] works much better than the original, i like how it fastens on better than the twist on, and it looks kinda stylish too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML]S3305 Steering servo[/link] adds a lot of grunt to the steering. Metal geared for durability in crashes. There may be a better servo out there for this (lots of people like the hitek 625 and 645's) but the futaba is a direct drop in. Hiteks take a little modification.
Transmitter rechargeable batteries. I got duracell 2300 NiMH, but NiCads would probably work well. I've yet to drain more than a quarter of the capacity of these guys before recharging.
Charging 8 tx cells evenly was a problem for me so i got [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML]Duratrax Digital peak charger[/link], it charges up to 8 cells. (after i got the right connector, i just plug it right into my transmitter) I charge both my tx and rx batteries with this. If i decide to get an electric car (already in the works) this will do nicely to charge the main power packs too. The price on this is right too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM92&P=ML]Multi-use tires[/link]. The lhs guy recommended these as good on/off road tires, and i now agree. I didn't want to wreck the nice stock tires that came with the evader, so i put these guys on for general purpose bashing, and i'll save the stockers for serious competition (with friends, or in a race if i decide to do that). I put these tires on duratrax wheels, which have cracked and i'm not really happy with, so i may go with rpm wheels next time.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLY17&P=7]Exhaust diverter[/link] to keep your body and wheels clean. This isn't the exact one i have, but it shows what it is.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWF3&P=7]Aluminum diff gear[/link] i just put it in, so i can't comment on it too much. Aluminum idler gear is on it's way too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTW1&P=7]RPM front bumper[/link] isn't a direct fit, but isn't too hard to make work. Better protection for the front suspension.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESA8&P=ML]Aluminum brake nut[/link]. I've heard the stock plastic is weak, and the aluminum is cheap, so i replaced it.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML]Temp gun[/link] came in handy while tuning the engine. I've since misplaced it, and have switched to a different fuel, so i'm playing it by ear until i find my temp gun.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD574&P=ML]Deluxe Car wrench[/link] mostly i use on the glow plugs, but it's nice on them, good firm grip, and has a springy thing inside to hang onto the plug
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSM58&P=ML]Pit stand[/link] is very handy while working on the car. Packs up pretty small too.
I've also ballooned my shocks to keep out dirt, and balloon my servos and receiver to keep out water (from the snow). I had servos go glitchy because they got wet.
Failsafe is still on my list.
That's all i can remember for now.
I have had my evader since christmas, and have around a gallon through it.
Here's a list of things i've upgraded or added:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBZ9&P=7]Rechargeable Reciever Pack[/link], as soon as the original batteries died. No buying stupid alkalines for me.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ07&P=ML]HP Glow ignitor[/link] works much better than the original, i like how it fastens on better than the twist on, and it looks kinda stylish too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML]S3305 Steering servo[/link] adds a lot of grunt to the steering. Metal geared for durability in crashes. There may be a better servo out there for this (lots of people like the hitek 625 and 645's) but the futaba is a direct drop in. Hiteks take a little modification.
Transmitter rechargeable batteries. I got duracell 2300 NiMH, but NiCads would probably work well. I've yet to drain more than a quarter of the capacity of these guys before recharging.
Charging 8 tx cells evenly was a problem for me so i got [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML]Duratrax Digital peak charger[/link], it charges up to 8 cells. (after i got the right connector, i just plug it right into my transmitter) I charge both my tx and rx batteries with this. If i decide to get an electric car (already in the works) this will do nicely to charge the main power packs too. The price on this is right too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM92&P=ML]Multi-use tires[/link]. The lhs guy recommended these as good on/off road tires, and i now agree. I didn't want to wreck the nice stock tires that came with the evader, so i put these guys on for general purpose bashing, and i'll save the stockers for serious competition (with friends, or in a race if i decide to do that). I put these tires on duratrax wheels, which have cracked and i'm not really happy with, so i may go with rpm wheels next time.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLY17&P=7]Exhaust diverter[/link] to keep your body and wheels clean. This isn't the exact one i have, but it shows what it is.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWF3&P=7]Aluminum diff gear[/link] i just put it in, so i can't comment on it too much. Aluminum idler gear is on it's way too.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTW1&P=7]RPM front bumper[/link] isn't a direct fit, but isn't too hard to make work. Better protection for the front suspension.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESA8&P=ML]Aluminum brake nut[/link]. I've heard the stock plastic is weak, and the aluminum is cheap, so i replaced it.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML]Temp gun[/link] came in handy while tuning the engine. I've since misplaced it, and have switched to a different fuel, so i'm playing it by ear until i find my temp gun.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD574&P=ML]Deluxe Car wrench[/link] mostly i use on the glow plugs, but it's nice on them, good firm grip, and has a springy thing inside to hang onto the plug
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSM58&P=ML]Pit stand[/link] is very handy while working on the car. Packs up pretty small too.
I've also ballooned my shocks to keep out dirt, and balloon my servos and receiver to keep out water (from the snow). I had servos go glitchy because they got wet.
Failsafe is still on my list.
That's all i can remember for now.
#18
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From: kill devil hils, NC
dont foreget to order ca glue for gluing the tires to the rims, what nitro are u gettin id recomend morgan fuel its what i use.
#19
ORIGINAL: Tom Nied
You guys that are running this DuraTrax Nitro Evader BX RTR, can model airplane fuel Wildcat 10% be used? Or is there something special about nitro car fuel?
You guys that are running this DuraTrax Nitro Evader BX RTR, can model airplane fuel Wildcat 10% be used? Or is there something special about nitro car fuel?
The hump pack fits right into the battery box. I think i had to cut and solder a proper lead onto the switch though.
#21
How could it run hotter on 10% compared to 15% or 20%? 10% nitro content is less nitro than 15% or 20%. That doesn't make any sense to me. I'm conservative running 10% in my model airplanes when a lot of the guys around me are running 15%. CONTENT: Nitro 10%, Oil 18% (80% synthetic, 20% racing castor). I must be missing something completely. I'll check the content on the O'donnell or Sidewinder
If you can clear this up for me, I'd appreciate it.
Tom
If you can clear this up for me, I'd appreciate it.
Tom
#22
ORIGINAL: crazydood47
You dony have to have a fail safe,i dont hve one(and i dont even kno what they do?)
You dony have to have a fail safe,i dont hve one(and i dont even kno what they do?)
It could be caused by out of range, outside interferance, loss of power to transmitter from bumping it and a battery falls out...
Murphy's law dictates that that will only happen when the vehicle is pointing away from you and the last signal it recieved was FLOOR IT!!

I don't have one either, but it's on the list. I haven't had a runaway with this truck yet...
#23
ORIGINAL: crazydood47
You dony have to have a fail safe,i dont hve one(and i dont even kno what they do?)
You dony have to have a fail safe,i dont hve one(and i dont even kno what they do?)
It could be caused by out of range, outside interference, loss of power to transmitter from bumping it and a battery falls out...
Murphy's law dictates that that will only happen when the vehicle is pointing away from you and the last signal it received was FLOOR IT!!

I don't have one either, but it's on the list. I haven't had a runaway with this truck yet...
#24
ORIGINAL: Tom Nied
How could it run hotter on 10% compared to 15% or 20%? 10% nitro content is less nitro than 15% or 20%. That doesn't make any sense to me. I'm conservative running 10% in my model airplanes when a lot of the guys around me are running 15%. CONTENT: Nitro 10%, Oil 18% (80% synthetic, 20% racing castor). I must be missing something completely. I'll check the content on the O'donnell or Sidewinder
If you can clear this up for me, I'd appreciate it.
Tom
How could it run hotter on 10% compared to 15% or 20%? 10% nitro content is less nitro than 15% or 20%. That doesn't make any sense to me. I'm conservative running 10% in my model airplanes when a lot of the guys around me are running 15%. CONTENT: Nitro 10%, Oil 18% (80% synthetic, 20% racing castor). I must be missing something completely. I'll check the content on the O'donnell or Sidewinder
If you can clear this up for me, I'd appreciate it.
Tom
#25
No, that doesn't sound right. If you're running it richer, then you're not getting the most out of the blend. Which means an improper high end needle setting. Also a waste of expensive fuel just blowing out the exhaust. Tower is telling me Wildcat Premium Extra 10% is fine. Thanks anyway.




