Help with tuneing evader
03-07-2005 | 04:40 PM
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From: , CA
Help with tuneing evader
Hi all, I just got my first Nitro RC last wednesday and just broke her in this weekend already took her through 10 tanks. wasnt till the 7th i really started to woot. but anyway... this thing goes through fuel waayy too fast and im not sure if i have it tuned corectly. rite now i have it 2 2/4 turns out... and i notice it seems to wana go really fast sometimes and not so fast others, and another question. how do you get these things to High rpm? just rev them as any other car? thanx i'll apreciate all your help.
-Stefan
Ps: nevermind my rcuniverse tag lol i planned on getting a rc10gt instead. to lazy to make a new one.
-Stefan
Ps: nevermind my rcuniverse tag lol i planned on getting a rc10gt instead. to lazy to make a new one.
03-08-2005 | 08:06 AM
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From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
RE: Help with tuneing evader
[link=http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_tunengine_02.asp]Here is a decent read on tuning. It'll get you started.[/link]
Really what you want for the High speed needle, is maximum performance without overheating the engine.
Lean it out 1/8th of a turn at a time and watch the performance. If it keeps getting faster, keep leaning it out. When it stops getting faster, go back to where it was fastest. The whole time you need to watch for smoke from the exhaust. You ALWAYS want there to be smoke. No smoke means too lean and danger to the engine because it's not getting enough lube.
If you're in a parking lot or a wide open area where you're going to be running wide open a lot or most of the time, it's probably a good idea to richen it up as much as 1/4 turn from where you saw best performance. WOT for extended periods at peak tune will be rough on the engine and may overheat and damage it. A temp gun is good for this type of running to keep an eye out for overheating.
Don't forget that you will need to do a little bit of tuning each time you run the car. A good start is to turn it back 1/4 or 1/2 a turn from where you were last time, start it up, get it warmed up and and start leaning out from there. You'll get good at it.
An awesome method for low-speed tuning comes from Frost. There's no better way to make your car explode off the line. You don't really need to tune this every time you run unless you notice your off the line punch is suffering.
ORIGINAL: Frost_
The issue of tuning comes up frequently, so I thought I'd modify a piece I did about big-block tuning that has been floating around the Savage forum. A variation of this was told to me a while back.
Guys, FORGET about asking what other's settings are, once you do this a few times you can take any old strange engine (meaning one that is working, but unfamiliar to you) and start from nothing, that is, knowing NO settings and get the most out of it.
For some reason even in the mags when they tell you "how to tune", they have you pinching the fuel line and timing the result in seconds to "set" your LSN. No doubt this is a good way to get in the ballpark, but it is FAR from precise.
The following will asume that you have your top-end tuned to a decent temp. range for your normal style of driving. If you AREN'T running lean (stuttering, you hear it, you know what it is) you can very safely tune the top-end to 250-260 with no reduced life (AGAIN this is if it isn't going LEAN). This temp. is a range for many, but not all smallblocks. Some like to be run even hotter (TRX 2.5 makes it's best power at 275F +) Once you get the top-end set here is how to really make it take off fast. If you are heavy-fingered this may be better for the pavement. Before you begin tuning the LSn, get the engine up to operating temperature first.
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
Copy this text and print it out if you need. Once you have done this you will realize how you are affecting positive change and it only gets easier.
Really what you want for the High speed needle, is maximum performance without overheating the engine.
Lean it out 1/8th of a turn at a time and watch the performance. If it keeps getting faster, keep leaning it out. When it stops getting faster, go back to where it was fastest. The whole time you need to watch for smoke from the exhaust. You ALWAYS want there to be smoke. No smoke means too lean and danger to the engine because it's not getting enough lube.
If you're in a parking lot or a wide open area where you're going to be running wide open a lot or most of the time, it's probably a good idea to richen it up as much as 1/4 turn from where you saw best performance. WOT for extended periods at peak tune will be rough on the engine and may overheat and damage it. A temp gun is good for this type of running to keep an eye out for overheating.
Don't forget that you will need to do a little bit of tuning each time you run the car. A good start is to turn it back 1/4 or 1/2 a turn from where you were last time, start it up, get it warmed up and and start leaning out from there. You'll get good at it.
An awesome method for low-speed tuning comes from Frost. There's no better way to make your car explode off the line. You don't really need to tune this every time you run unless you notice your off the line punch is suffering.
ORIGINAL: Frost_
The issue of tuning comes up frequently, so I thought I'd modify a piece I did about big-block tuning that has been floating around the Savage forum. A variation of this was told to me a while back.
Guys, FORGET about asking what other's settings are, once you do this a few times you can take any old strange engine (meaning one that is working, but unfamiliar to you) and start from nothing, that is, knowing NO settings and get the most out of it.
For some reason even in the mags when they tell you "how to tune", they have you pinching the fuel line and timing the result in seconds to "set" your LSN. No doubt this is a good way to get in the ballpark, but it is FAR from precise.
The following will asume that you have your top-end tuned to a decent temp. range for your normal style of driving. If you AREN'T running lean (stuttering, you hear it, you know what it is) you can very safely tune the top-end to 250-260 with no reduced life (AGAIN this is if it isn't going LEAN). This temp. is a range for many, but not all smallblocks. Some like to be run even hotter (TRX 2.5 makes it's best power at 275F +) Once you get the top-end set here is how to really make it take off fast. If you are heavy-fingered this may be better for the pavement. Before you begin tuning the LSn, get the engine up to operating temperature first.
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
Copy this text and print it out if you need. Once you have done this you will realize how you are affecting positive change and it only gets easier.
