mt2 18 ss
#2
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From: Canterbury, NEW ZEALAND
here is the official hpi racing page, it has all the specs of it there. I am also looking at this truck, and best thing is that it does 46mph stock standard!! Awesome [8D]
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
#3
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From: Derby, UNITED KINGDOM
I am looking too lol....
Thinking of getting a JR XS3 Synthesized FM Radio gear with - then it will be truly awesome! And in the far future a O.S .18cv-rx. Thats the good thing - theres no need to hop it up - its got everything!
Thinking of getting a JR XS3 Synthesized FM Radio gear with - then it will be truly awesome! And in the far future a O.S .18cv-rx. Thats the good thing - theres no need to hop it up - its got everything!
#4
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From: -, ANTARCTICA
yes its amazing, and i will be replacing my almost stock rtr mt2 with it. its cheaper to just get the new kit than to buy every little part. but its missing a few things. 1-super chassis 2- threaded shocks/super shocks 3- titanium turnbucles and heavy duty ball ends. 4/5- woven graphite shock towers nd upper deck 6- fuel filter. thats all i can think of at the moment. other wise its pretty friggin sweet
#5
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From: Derby, UNITED KINGDOM
IMO, carbon graphite upper deck/towers are uneeded and not as strong. Super chassis isn't really needed - just a different grade aluminium - same thickness, and the tank has a built in ceramic fuel filter.
That only leaves the ti turnbuckles and threaded shocks left on the hpi option parts! I wish they'd added the threaded shocks to the kit though - they are trick! Ti turnbuckles sound nice, but it would have added a lot onto the total price to manufacture. I'll probaly just get the rear MT2 threaded shocks in immediate future for rear of my rush evo, then in a few weeks when I get it I'll only need the front pair. They really will be the finishing touch!
That only leaves the ti turnbuckles and threaded shocks left on the hpi option parts! I wish they'd added the threaded shocks to the kit though - they are trick! Ti turnbuckles sound nice, but it would have added a lot onto the total price to manufacture. I'll probaly just get the rear MT2 threaded shocks in immediate future for rear of my rush evo, then in a few weeks when I get it I'll only need the front pair. They really will be the finishing touch!
#6
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From: Gaithersburg,
MD
The only thing you need to buy are aluminum steering knuckles because the stock are very weak. Here are the links:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ44&P=7]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ44&P=7[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7[/link]
And of course a fail safe.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ44&P=7]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ44&P=7[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7[/link]
And of course a fail safe.
#8
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From: Derby, UNITED KINGDOM
Which Company's do aluminium ranges for the mt2? Which does everyone use?
I was just wondering as I'll want to stick to the same range if I start getting aluminium stuff because of different colours, finishing styles and availibility...
Thanks again, Paul.
I was just wondering as I'll want to stick to the same range if I start getting aluminium stuff because of different colours, finishing styles and availibility...
Thanks again, Paul.
#10
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From: Dayton,
OH,
rush basher:
I hate to disagree, but I disagree. CF is lighter and stronger, just has a lower shear rate. When they fail - they snap. The upper chassis brace is a well engineered piece that stiffens the chassis and ties the front and rear diffs together. This is imparitive if you are racing where 1) stiffness is king and 2) weight kills speed.
Just my thoughts.
I hate to disagree, but I disagree. CF is lighter and stronger, just has a lower shear rate. When they fail - they snap. The upper chassis brace is a well engineered piece that stiffens the chassis and ties the front and rear diffs together. This is imparitive if you are racing where 1) stiffness is king and 2) weight kills speed.
Just my thoughts.
#13

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I kinda wish that they didnt go "cheap" on that mill. They could at least offer an SS kit with out an engine, so you can pick your poison instead of having the same block everyone else has on their SS. Last time I checked, a KIT didnt come with an engine.
#14
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From: -, ANTARCTICA
i wouldnt suggest the threaded shocks. i have them, and the adjuster doesnt turn easily at all, one of them actually i cant turn. i just stick clips on instead.
#17
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From: Canterbury, NEW ZEALAND
hey i have just purchased this car and am patiently waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Just a few questions.
1. how bad is the head problem rccar was mentioning about?? and what is the best option for remydying it?
2. what percent fuel is it reccomended i use for normal running after break in?
3. and any1 wanna reccomend some decent radio gear to go with it.
Cheers
Paul
1. how bad is the head problem rccar was mentioning about?? and what is the best option for remydying it?
2. what percent fuel is it reccomended i use for normal running after break in?
3. and any1 wanna reccomend some decent radio gear to go with it.
Cheers
Paul
#19
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From: Dayton,
OH,
thorns_nz:
I think the article over exagerated this. I had a HPI 18SS and never had it overheat. I now have an OS 18 and have not had it overheat. In the Kit the head is different than the 18SS that you buy, the 18SS has a milled billit aluminum head - much better - but again I think their article is incorrect.
I run O'Donnell 20% with no problems
I have a Futaba 2PL, it is good radio for the price, but there are better. Just deopendent on what you want to spend.
I think the article over exagerated this. I had a HPI 18SS and never had it overheat. I now have an OS 18 and have not had it overheat. In the Kit the head is different than the 18SS that you buy, the 18SS has a milled billit aluminum head - much better - but again I think their article is incorrect.
I run O'Donnell 20% with no problems
I have a Futaba 2PL, it is good radio for the price, but there are better. Just deopendent on what you want to spend.



