aznhustlerboy

My Feedback: (3)

I wanna keep my st, but I NEED MORE SPEED! 30mph is not enough for me. Which engines will fit directly into my car...so that Iall i have to do is put the engine in, hook it up to the throttle, and i am ready to go? i dont wanna have to do any mods. Any help if appreciated. thanks!

Tricksligger

Do a search and youll find some threads on my old max st.

You need a Os.18 cv-rx and the 2 speed conversion Total : $130

The steel gears are another $60 and a steel diff set is like $12

With these changes you will reach speeds of 50-55mph

RC Prodigy

Not to go against you there Tricksligger but I wouldnt reccomend the two speed. although it does do wonders for your low end speed, it still doesn't have a slipper which causes the freakin differential to go out.

This is what you will need

engine:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP7&P=ML

(if you are keeping single speed) Clutch Bell:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD213&P=7

CV Shafts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCNR0&P=7

Steel differential:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEE3&P=7



Now if you want a little more speed (keyword little) this is what you'll need in addition to the items above minus the Clutch bell:

Conversion
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVU70&P=7

Steel Gears:
http://www.duragears.com/pdtst.htm





Now as for my advice on the two speed, I wouldn't reccomend it because, like I said before, the lack of a slipper clutch, I have the stock spur gear and an o.s. .18 CV-Rx with the 3 shoe clutch and 18T Clutchbell and it'll spin tires and do wheel stands and what not and still hit like 55-57mph. If you want a higher rpm engine, go for the O.S. .12 CV-RX 29 bucks more but it's a higher rpm engine if I'm not mistaken.

aznhustlerboy

My Feedback: (3)

wow..thanks for the advice. so will these engines u all are reccomending to me need any mods to the chassis?..i think im just gunna keep the car...or sell it and get like a rustler or something

DaytonaTurbo87

lol, I think I've got the ultimate maximum st budget build. Took my max st, pulled the .12 out and dropped in the .21 big block out of a savage. I also threw on the 2 speed setup. I had to drill my own holes in the chassis for the engine to mount in, but all in all it fit in pretty good. I also had to mod the exhaust a bit and fab up my own servos. It wasn't hard, but took a while to do. Cheap though, $35 for the engine, and made the servos out of a combo of stock pieces and cotter pins I bent to size. The throttle and brake servos I fabbed up work great, but the stock gas tank doesn't last long, lol! FAST, yes! The swap took some work, but not too bad. But like this r/c stuff is, doing the work is half the fun! And besides, I love having something with my own touch.

87goldtub_rc10

How have the steel diffs held up? I am thinking about putting those in my overdrive st, or just use the steel pinion and roast the alum ring gear every gallon of fuel and replace it - $5.

DaytonaTurbo87

Everything is holding up well. But I do keep a close eye on things as I'm driving it. I'm still running the crappy plastic spur gear though, I'd like to switch to steel, at least for first gear, but I haven't roasted anything yet. The beauty is that if there's too much power going to the rear wheels, they'll just spin, the advantage to that is then there's less load built up on the drive system.

cruuk

the duratrax diffs dont seem to last well at all, especially with an engine like the .18 OS. if you want crazy power and speed and are less concerned about handling, fill the diff with epoxy or some other such way of locking it.

and a .18 with an 18 tooth clutch bell will be balistic, especially with larger tires.

DaytonaTurbo87

lol, well I got my max st used, and it came with a load of extra parts, and the truck came with a good rear diff housing installed on it, two sets of blown diff housing and an extra diff housing new in a bag. I guess that says something. And that 'punishment' was done by the stock torq 12! Mine's been holding up well, but I've been easy on it so far. I don't know what one hard race would do to it though...

RC Prodigy

I've said it before and I'll keep on saying it as long as I have to, unless you are going to run strictly onroad and not are not going to be doing donuts and stuff, a two speed is a major mistake. There IS NO slipper clutch. If you start going offroad with it where the engine load is constantly on/off the two speed will shift on and off causing extreme stress on the differential thus causing it to fail prematurely. You do not NEED a two speed to make this truck extremely fast as I said in my previous post.


As for the steel differential, it's held up okay, there is some slack in the output shafts, especially on the right side (if you are looking at the truck from the back). And locking the differential is another bad mistake, unless you have hardened steel driveshafts (swingshafts 85.5mm), every other run, they're gonna snap, especially onroad.

DaytonaTurbo87

Well when I got my truck in stock config it did not come with a slipper, just some crappy plastic gear, so BFD is what I figure. Then again, I don't beat the #$%@ out of my truck! And if too many things break, you can always change it back.

87goldtub_rc10

On my ODST there is no option, but to lock out 1st gear and I don't think it would help any. Mostly what I do is run it in front of the house and don't jump much, so I don't think I am very hard on it. Sometimes it goes off road when we go camping and take trips. I am just looking for it to last longer than a gallon of fuel, where the alum diffs shred to slivers of aluminum in the diff case. I am very tempted to stop messing with it and just buy a HPI MT2 18SS. I am not sure the diff problem would be solved with a slipper clutch, it will just add a little life to the parts. I think diff problems are inherent in any shaft driven vehicle.

dledbetter52

Putting .21 in my max do u remember parts u used