RUSTED

hey ,



i just stripped the ball diff gear on the nitro xcellerator , is their a stronger replacement than stock , like made out of aluminum ??? wat parts should i get to bulletproof the transmission ??



thanks

RCUSEE

there is one by robinson racing

ps:
i dont need these parts immedeately but maybe ill order them next week if you have some freetime lynx

RUSTED

i cant find an aluminum ball diff gear thats made for the xtm xcellerator ,what aluminum diffs will fit ??

RUSTED

well i ordered the rc10gt aluminum diff ring , would i need anything else to make it fit , or is it a direct fit ??

RCUSEE

you need the diff balls and the robinson racing rc10gt diff gear thats about it

RUSTED

r these all i need ?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLL23&P=7


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2874&P=V

tltjs

My Feedback: (1)

I put a duratrax roto start on mine and haven' t had any problem at all, have ran about a gallon through it since i put the starter on.

RCUSEE

jep, these are the parts you need everything else can be taken by xtm... i guess they copied a bit here and there by associated

StadiumtruckYo

Hey all! hope you guy's can give me a hand here.

Problem started after i ran out of fuel on my XTM nitro truck.I went to put some more fuel in the tank,then began to prime it.For tho's of you that know/seen the truck the vacuum line and fuel line are blue.Well, so is my fuel,witch caused me to flood it.so i take tho glow plug out and begin to pull the starter until i see that all the fuel is gone.Then i go to reinstall the glow plug,and for some reason it didn't feel like it was threading in all the way.So i go to the hobby shop and have the guy look at it. he tried it and said it seams to be in there ok to me.I also grabbed some super lime green lines so i can see the fuel travel allot better for later priming..

Now i walk out the door and start it by my car,finally cranks over.But the idle seamed to be very high. So i take it for a quick spin hardly go's anywhere.And the guy Wont help me unless i pay. Got pissed and went home. Changed the lines and cranked it up again,still idle way high but was starting to creep higher.Only this time i tried to give it gas and it died,After it died tho i can hear something spinning. Plus there is air bubbles in the fuel line but they are the size of the candy called Nerds.

Soo, what could be the issue i changed nothing to the truck did not mess with any of the needles either cuzz it was fine where they were at.Could it be the small air bubbles? The spinning i am hearing?

rclynx

You have an air leak some where [&:] if your truck was running extreemly well just before it shut off it developed the leak some time in the past few tanks. Make sure the O-ring on the fuel cap is in place and working well and there are no cracks in the tank. Take a close look and see if your glow plug has been cross threaded.........that can also cause a leak. Take 2 asprin and come back in the morning

StadiumtruckYo

So i removed the Cylinder head to see if the GP was all the way in and it was. So i removed the GP that could have bin stripped and put in another that i had in there before. it threaded just fine into the Head Button.I also gave it 10 pull starts while the GP was out. Next after that seamed to check out ok to me i removed the fuel tank and examined it very carefully. No cracks the O-ring is fine also.I reinstalled the fuel tank and re primed the fuel to the carb. I saw zero bubbles except for one small one that is in there now, very small tho.

Now here is where my next problem lies. After i did all that and saw no bubbles i put the GP back in and started to crank it up.... Well as soon as i gave the first pull it was hard right away.

So now what could be the issue? i did the unfludding process and i had no problem pulling the pull start UNTIL the GP goe's back in ,check everything for leaks Tank, Lines.Cleaned the air filter to.What is causing the turn over to be so hard when the GP is in,compared to when it is not?

rclynx

There has to be a way that it primed before you started to pull and it got hard to pull. If it gets hard right away crack the GP loose a little and try and start it. Put your Glow starter on and leave it for 30 or 40 seconds before you try and start it. If you had bubbles you had a leak and chances are its not gone, Carb, Fuel lines, backing plate O-ring...........Its really hard without seeing it.........every model out there does things like that, its tough but its part of Nitro pains in the U know what [:'(]

StadiumtruckYo

OK ill try that,I just didn't want to keep tugging away when i didn't really no for sure what was going on.I just hate the fact that it is like practically brand new truck to. But i really appreciate the help bro. its nice to know there are still people willing to help a new guy out.

StadiumtruckYo

Ok so i did that.Now it only sounds like its about to turn over while im in the pull start process but after each pull it stops, until the next pull.I put the HSN/LSN back to factory also,but still no dice.It seams like it is getting to much gas when i try to start it.Because after about 5 or 6 pull starts i tilt it over only to find fuel poring outa the pipe.... Still nothing! i give up man ima have to take it to the hobbyshop and have them take a look at it.

rclynx

You are right next to having it man, When you crack it I hope its just barely loose..........about 1/4 turn..........turn your throttle trim up just a little it should run and after it sputters a few times tighten the GP and try again...........That new engine is just kicking your butt right now. I get about 1 out of 5 or 6 like that..............do like I said, open the throttle with the TX just a little and hang onto your truck...............you'll get it

StadiumtruckYo

Went to the hobby shop again today told the guy my problems.Also Wound up buying a new GP, which im glad i did because it seamed to start right up after that.But as i went to give it gas the truck died.So i slowly tuned it to where now i can give it throttle with out it cutting of from to much fuel still needs to be leaned out some more.I think i need to adjust the throttle trim a tad bit more because on full break it dies. So i think im getting on the right road here now!

Next problem is now when i give it almost half throttle... The car didnt go anywhere lol. This break in really tells you if nitro is for you or not. And its for me! it is a pain but at the same time rewarding,and i love trying to learn//figure it all out!

But yeah about the car not moving under throttle.Slipper clutch need to be adjusted now?? it worked fine before but so did the engine lol!


Let me know rclynx!

RCUSEE

normally during the break in you shouldnt go more than 1/3 throttle... the engine cant handle 3/4 or full trottle unless its not leaned out
2. if you engine shuts down while breaking... check your servo trims and the low speed needle

rclynx

Work on that tuning a little more before you make any other adjustments..............if you went back to the original needle settings its all screwed up .......LOL [:-]
Just in case and it wouldn't hurt to set the slipper at factory settings, which isn't always right but its someplace to start..........don't move anything till you get it tuned all the way.
Glow starter could be a problem also, that is a place I never skimp. I like starting cars for 5 or 6 hours and not having a problem

StadiumtruckYo

The truck is all ready broken in. Well i mean it is to where i can give it full throttle now.But its at the hobby shop now. I was just getting to mind boggled,so i told the guy "just tell me exactly what was wrong with it and how you fixed it step by step.

dwblue00

Hello, new to RCU I'm Also on global hobbies forum. I thought i'd say hello!

rcdriv3r

why hello and welcome to RCU. so i take it you got an x-cell? got anything else?

RCUSEE

mayne,
they cut off my internet for about 2months now...
the car is running really nice now with the bigger clutchgear
im still working on putting my bajashell on the x-cell but it shouldnt be a problem

greets

dwblue00

1st I have to say, Ilove the nitro x-cellerator, I have that a nitro mammoth st, tamiya wild willy 2 chrome metallic special. I used to own a kyosho rb5 and a AE FT T4. Which by the way were great vehicles.

rclynx

Glad to see you back. I was wondering what happened to you been waiting to see your mod for mounting that bug body. You should file off a little on the Chassis and put a bigger gear on the spur. With that TZ you could do that and get a better over all speed maybe Happy RC'en Ben

cookster

Hey all,
after reading tons of reviews and watching some vids i have decided to pick up a xtr nitro x-cellerator.   a local shop had them on sale recently but i didn't have enough to buy one, so i gave them some cheddar to put it on hold.  i will be going to pick it up in a few weeks.
i haven't had an r/c car since i was a lil kid and have always wanted to get back into it.   now i am...lol.
i was just wondering, since it will be my first time out, if there are anythings i should be watching for in terms of breaking in the motor, proper set-ups...basically anything a beginner could mess up...lol.
oh ya...i'm not gonna be using it for racing or anything like that....purely parking lot and backyard fun.