evader512

is there any thing i can use in place of a dremal

sheerider1026

not sure on the dremel tool subsitute.. diesel fuel?[X(] anyways, sorry for no pics yet guys.. my buddy hasn't came over to do the mod to his yet, and the wifey is keeping me too busy at the house.. so if not i will just take mine back apart and take some pics of what i did.. kinda wanna inspect it anyway to see how things are rotating.. its smooth as silk still.. definately a permanent fix.. now i gotta figure out how to make stronger wheel pins.. maybe i need to just loosen the slipper some more.. this thing is a ball to drive.. it eats.. make my tmaxx just sit on the shelf..

sheerider1026

ok guys here are the diff mod pics.. i hope they work.. first some directions.. the drive hubs get cut in 4 corners, the cuts need to match up with the holes in the diff

sheerider1026

remove all the balls, the steel washers and the bearing that fits inside the one drive hub,(the bearing that rides on the inside of the gear stays) now for making the pins i used a allen wrench that fit tight. you cut the pins to were they are flush with the edge on the drive hubs (slide a steel washer on the outside of hub and it will stop on this edge) you will use the steel washers to go on the outside of the hubs, this keeps the pins from sliding out of either side.. as long as the pins are not too long (and keeping the steel ring from mating with the edge on the hub, you are good to go) the steel washer will also need to be ground down to half of their thickness, i did this with a bench grind using a pair of vise grips.. next you will see that one hub has a shaft that goes through the bearing in the center of the gear, grind about 1/16" off of the end. now, you will need a spacer ( i used one of the spacers that goes between the 2 bearings in the front wheels for this, works perfect) grind this spacer to half of its width). place the spacer on the inside of the hub where the bearing use to be that you removed.. this just keeps your center diff bearing from walking out. the bearing that was originally in the hub is too wide to use with this mod.. i hope this all makes sense.you will also need to reinstall the long bolt and nut as it originally was installed, snug it down fairly tight, don't strip it. here are more pictures

sheerider1026

install it and you are ready to go.. this is a very strong posi-lock mod.. you will not tear it out.. the worst that can ever happen is the plastic gear can break or crack.. no more slipping diff balls and no more melted diff gears.. now just tune the drivetrain using your slipper clutch. you will need some slip. i found that running the truck with the slipper clutch too tight will break the wheel pins.. also find a solid steel pin instead of the hollow roll pin that is originally in the truck is much stronger.. i actually ripped apart a wheel from hard bashing (slipper too tight, lol) i hope that this made sense and someone can benefit from this mod.. these pictures are of the 2nd mod that i have done ( my buddys).. .. plus its also a lot of fun to drive the truck with a posi diff.. lol.. let me know what you guys think ..

evader512

dose the truck still turn as sharp as it use to

sheerider1026

in grass and dirt it is the same. i was wondering the same thing until i drove it.. and yes it turns the same as it did before.. as for blacktop i have not tried that yet.. what you think about the mod?

evader512

i dont know if im going to do it yet i might weight and see in what condishion my diff is in

sheerider1026

thats kool. i just thought that i would share my idea. i know that the diff is a weak point in these trucks and a lot of people have gotten rid of them for this reason.. this is a tuff fix for the diff on these trucks.. just thought someone would want to do it also.. its very easy.. takes a little time but its not that bad.. hope someone else can use this idea.

evader512

i cheaked mine and tried to take the adjustment screw out and stripped it out

sheerider1026

gonna need to rebuild the diff, try and get another screw and bolt, or get the new bolt and do the posi lock mod.. good luck.. if u want it locked i can do it for a small fee for you..

greywolf187

if you can't find the one for the Evader you and use the bolt from the RC10GT the weak point one the RC10GT is the the nut is plastic not aluminum. after reading the posts about the new diff mod. I do most of my bashing on the street. so I think I'll just fine tune my drivetrain a little better till it works better.

sheerider1026

wow, i figured a lot of you guys would be interested in doing this mod.. i need to try it out on the street so i can let you guys know how it does.. i don't think it would make much difference.. i will run it this wek with my street tires and report back.. my buddy is tickled with his now that it is locked.. now he is down again waiting to get a better steering servo.. they strip waay too easy.. i put a metal geared jr hi tourqe in mine.. problem solved.

evader512

i made new under glow ill post pics later

evader512

led in each end af drinking straw dubblestick taped to side powered by 2 aa

BEARBYSR

Deffinatly an intresting mod. The only thing I would say is that for bashing it would be a fun mod, however, the whole diff. design is based around racing and being able to adjust your diff. for different cornering situations. Locking the rear will will cause alot of fishtailing and kickouts around turns. If you plan on racin, this is NOT a good mod IMO, however, it would be fun as heck for bashin and trickin. The adjustable diff. also saves alot of extra strain and jolting to the trans so you may not have the diff. problem, but you might gain trans. problems. JMO.

I am intrested to see how it works out for you, please keep updated.

pocketear

whats up boys i gotta problem my flywheel keeps coming losse what can i do should i locktight it

evader512

i got lock washers on mine

evader512

the underglow pics about 1/2 way up the page sheerider are my new underglow i also have red back lights and am looking/getting head lights

sheerider1026

so far its holding up great.. you can use your slipper to take some shock off the drivetrane.. i have about 20 tanks through it and its holding up great.. and for drifting at times and kickouts its not that bad.. the truck is still very controllable.. but yes, for racing i would not use it.. but for a durable basher truck this works great.. the truck is very aggresive now..

venom69_420

LOL why do u have a container of karosine laying on its side on the froor? seems dangerouse...or is that just me?

venom69_420

sheerider1026

lol.. its empty!! just filled my ready heater up.. but yea its empty.. now i am breaking axle pins and wheels.. gonna convert it to the 12mm hex hubs.. also installed the "higher stall" tmaxx clutch today.. love the clutch.. smoothe and the truck sits still at idle.. idles better also..

evader512

how many people think boiling the plastic parts helps them in the cold / snow because. i think that boiling them would make them brittle, wouldn't it?

sheerider1026

don't know on the boiling.. i did break an a arm due to the cold the other day.. update on the diff mod!! its working great.. no problems.. i also fixed the wheel pin issue!! i use a 5/64 drill bit and use the smooth shank as wheel pins.. very strong.. no more broken wheels either.. seems to be holding great.. we both ran our trucks (both have the diff mod) all day the other day and no problems.. probably ran over a wuart of fuel through it.. another update for the blacktop races! don't do the diff mod if blacktop is your thing.. truck steers fin but kicks out on you a lot.. as far as dirt bashing its the way to go IMO.. got my slipper clutch adjusted for just a little slip also.. helps control those wheelies.. have fun guys!!