sheerider1026

there are a total of 2 transfer ports in this motor.. at the bottom of each transfer you will need to remove material.. the transfer that is close to the crankshafts rear bearing is a little tricky to do.. the pics may be hard to see..
here are the after pics

sheerider1026

the last picture above shows the front transfer port that is right above the rear crankshaft bearing.. when you start to cut the excess material out , you can creat a smooth curve that goes around the outside edge of where the bearing sits.. this will allow the fuel/air mixture to flow more a ton better and get into the cylinder faster and easier.. the next picture is the rear transfer port after i have installed the backing plate on the motor.. can you see how the backing plate blocks off the transfer port?? keep in mind that when the sleeve is installed this will creat a tunnel instead of just what you are seeing.

sheerider1026

ok.. try to take a close look after i have cut the backing plate and reinstalled it.. this creates a smooth flowing path for the fuel to effeciently enter the transfer port, and do it fast.. take a look, its very hard to see, but it creates a very nice and open path.

sheerider1026

the last step that i did not get a good picture of is the exhaust port ROOF.. first, slide the sleeve into the block.. notice that the exhaust port in the sleeve is higher than the exhaust port that is in the block.. a lower exhaust port lowers rpm and give more lowend power .. being that the block port is lower than the sleeve, this in theory is lowering the exhaust port timing.. the design of the sleeve actually has a higher exhaust port timing, correcting the missmachined block will put the exhaust port timing higher to where it was meant to be.. remove the sleeve, cut the roof of the exhaust port on the block (not the sleeve).. cut in smalle incriments and refit the sleeve.. keep doing this untill the block port and the sleeves port are flush at the roof.. if you cut the roof of the blocks port a little too high it will not cause any harm.. so in theory we are raising the exhaust port timing without cutting on the sleeve.. this will give you a motor that has a harder hitting power band, has higher rpms, and more power.. .. you can also go as far as knife edging the rod for less crankcase turbulance.. have fun and enjoy.. i am expecting rider to give his reveiw once he gets this motor back from me..

sheerider1026

i am not liable for anyone doing this mod themself by the way.. lol

rider313

sheerider1026 could you give step by step instructions on how to knife the con-rod and port the header. and what dremel bit to use for it also, thanks a ton.

rider313

any of you guys have trobles with your one way bearing on the pull start? the stock one on my motor started to chirp, which is understandable, it has about two gallons threw it, so i put a new one in and it does the same? you guys got any fixes, also has anyone tried the spin start for this motor?

JayRec

My Feedback: (38)

As soon as I got my used NEST I replaced the pull start with the roto and love it. I dont pull on any of my trucks. I either have the roto or use my bump box. I hate replacing one way bearings!

evader512

which one are you using ?

strtzpmp

anybody ever make their own brakes? im low on cash so i made my own after my evader brakes had a perfect circle in the middle...i made it out of a large washer out of a set of washers from the dollar store...now i got at leat 60 pairs of brakes all vented or cross drilled or wierd engraved designes i made myself...i lovehome things...cheap and easy...like my 2 bodies i made...both in show off your st thread in the last 2 pages of the thread...anyone know of any homemade remidies or things i could do to it agian...the brakes work better then ever...big stang how much would you want for your evader??? thats exactly how i want mine...post an answer and ill see what i can doo 4 you...maybe my evader plus cash? or wat? let me know....i cant find the F***in front a arms in aluminum anymore which is completly retarded.....would you sell those?

rider313

strtzpmp you got a lot of free time on you hands dont ya, lol. i am not sure if your brake setuo will work, that metal on metal contact might cause radio interfearince.

strtzpmp

im glad you siad that and i doubled checked it and they work just like the tmaxx stainless steel brakes...this is way better then the fiberglass....no glitching either

rider313

heres a Losi XXX-NT trinton body i bought for my evader, it is a pritty good fit, just a little tinkering in some spots but not bad.

rider313

its actully racing red but the camera made it comp orange so some reson, weard.

nitro-rob

Metal on metal brakes are common in RC.

rider313

hey nitro rob, how do you like the shocks on you firestorm, i found a set cheep on ebay, i dont like the bottom feed shocks on the evader, so i am looking for alturnatives.

sheerider1026

rider313, did you get the motor back yet?? just checking up..

rider313

i have yet to recieve it as of saterday but i bet it is in my mail box right now. thx.

rider313

yet another casulty of the locked dif, broke the cvd at the joint, if i am going to keep runnig on grass i need to ditch the badlands lol. way to much grip.

nitro-rob

I didn't like the FS stock shocks that much for no particular reason and put GMP on the back from the MT2 and Team Blue Star on the front (MT2 but shorter than GPM's). There are nice high end aluminum shocks that HPI makes for the storm. What about team associated shocks?

rider313

ya thats what i was thinking to. i am still looking.

rider313

hey sheerider, i got my motor back a few days ago. I did all your mods to my engine i am using now, i also ported the cylinder sleeve at the intake ports, instaed of them having a 90 dagree angle goning to them i made it a 45 dagree angle so the fuel can transfer easyer. to bad its raining ouside or i would go test it. oh i also ported the header and knifed the conrod.

sheerider1026

ouch! i would have left the ports on the sleeve alone man.. i assume you raised the ports on the sleeve when you angled them?? the port hweights and shape have a lot to do with the way the motor runs.. they change when and how (what angle) the fuel enters the cylinder.. hopefully you didn't ruin a sleeve.. hope it runs good for you..

rider313

no i just bevealed the bottom edge. i didnt change the shape of the actual hole i just made it a angle going in to it., the port holes are the exact same size. i did test it today in the drive and holly power. these mods made my 1 1/2 gallon motor run strong i cant emagine a new sleeve. I'll get a pic up of what i did.

rider313

i did this to the two intake ports.