*_Torque_*

well i know you guyz are goin to say this is stupid but i read in an r/c car magazine that if you refrigerate your fuel it lasts longer in the engine(taking it longer to burn).. well I about laughed when I saw this but I was wondering if anybody else has ever heard this before??

InfinitySpeed04

Sounds kinda funny to me. I have never tried to freeze fuel becasue it counds like it might dilute it when it warms back up. I dont know much about fuel except if makes the car go. "Go Juice"

*_Torque_*

yah dont get me wrong i thinks its funny i was just wonderin if any body else heard it

*_Torque_*

and my video is almost completed!!!!

boarding2427

hey ill try it when i get my car(at duratrax cuz they cant fix shi*)

gubbs3

My Feedback: (1)

Using cold fuel would likely increase power output because it would lower the temperature of the fuel/air mix going into the engine, similar to running in cold weather. However, that is just the theory.

What will actually happen is you will end up ruining your fuel because it will collect condensation at an even faster rate than it already does. Alcohol is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. That is why it is reccommended that it be stored in a cool dry place. Chilling the fuel will only promote water absorbtion which will ruin your fuel and more importantly performance.

SkrapIron

Well, If you refrigerate the fuel below 52 degrees f ( 11c ) you will prevent the methyl alcohol from spontaneously combusting.
(That's below the flash point of the methyl alcohol. The nitromethane has a flashpoint ot 95f ).

You will do nothing to retard the combustion, since the glow plug will operate at temperatures of 800-1000f. (Methyl alcohol will not ignite until it reaches 725f (385c). The Nitro Methane in glow fuel will not ignite until it reaches 800f ( 427c ). It will reach this combustion point whether it is cooled or not.

The only reason I can see is for long term storage of an opened container. If container is opened, cooling below the flashpoint will slow the evaporation of the alcohol and nitro, thus upsetting the the ratio's.

smokingcrater

also, cold liquid is more dense then warmer liquid. (fill up the tank of a full size car as full as you can on a cool morning and then let it bake in the sun the rest of the day if you want to prove that one... all cars have built in expansion areas in the tank but you still can overfill if there is a big enough temp change and you REALLY had it full!)

nitroman111

wow i did not kmow that!! i am a nobb on nitro still and i am getting motre information as i get on in the months in nitro. but that is good infomation!!

Nitropowered92

i read that article in Xtreme RC Cars

*_Torque_*

haha good thank u mt2 i aint the only weirdo reading it but thanx for all the info guys

brownstone101

lol i read that too

MadForceDude

gee, i'm surprise that no one think about it yet, alcool don't feeze

*_Torque_*

haha well i was thinkn about it then i read it in the newspaper il prob try it somtime 2 see if it makes a difference

dicko

you can put fuel in the fridge & freezer. if you have a suspected batch of bad fuel & stick it in the freezer you can see if it has water in it, if it does the alcohol won't freeze, but the water does & makes the fuel go cloudy (the ice crystals). as long as you put the lid on the fuel properly putting it in the fridge won't do any harm, it won't absorb water while in the fridge if it is in the bottle, & cooling the fuel down actually slows the process of the fuel naturally degrading. you should never leave fuel open to the atmosphere anyway, nitro is hydroscopic & attracts water. it isn't actually the nitro that hurts your engine when you leave it sitting there with fuel in it, it is the water that nitro absorbs into it from the atmosphere that causes the engine to rust.

nitroman111

wow i dint know that an engine could rust!!

nitroman111

wow i dint know that and i dint know an engine could rust!![sm=idea.gif]

MadForceDude

your sleeve is in brass, your engine and piston in aluminum, but your crankshaft and the starting shaft are in steel......witch rust... that why we put after run oil.

SkrapIron

It's not only rust, but galvanic corrosion that you have to worry about.

Being that your engine is comprised of several dis-simlar metals, the affect of corrosion is even more extreme.

Galvanic corrosion refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into contact in the presencese of water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone.

That's why after-run oil is so critical......

MadForceDude

interesting...but as i know, to get electrolyte, you need electricity. you talking about the same process than chroming metal part right ?? ( i'm asking it because i speak french and sometime i'm not sure that i understand the term use, not because i'm doubt your theory).

SkrapIron

Water contains both conductive trace minerals, as well as a small residual electrical capacity. Water that is accumulated, and left in the engine will produce small amount of electrolisys between the dissimilar metals.

Look at a brass address tag on the side of a house, that is held in place by a steel screw. The brass corrodes around the screw, but it has been exposed to nothing more than rain and humidity.

InfinitySpeed04

Wow so many big words, me cant understand[sm=confused.gif]

MadForceDude

nice example....i agree. so if i understand right, using electricity and acid liquid in industrial use just accelerate the process..

brownstone101

dosnt when u put your glow igniter on it makes the whole motor charged or dose the aluminum wont let it transfer it to the sleave

SkrapIron

When water is introduced into an environment, where dissimilar metals are employed, the least noble metal in the construction ( softest) will become the annode, and the more noble metals ( harder ones ) will become the electrical cathode.

Believe me, when you stop to consider that your engine is made of brass, copper, aluminum, platinum and 2 grades of steel, It makes after-run oil that much more important. Rust is the least of your worries....[:'(]

Remember, that galvanic corrosion is idependent of outside electrical current ( such as your glow starter ). It is a naturally occuring exchange of ions between 2 dissimilar metals, in the presence of a catalyst. In this case, water.