AznBash3r

My Feedback: (1)

ive posted a post on the official rc10gt thread a week ago, but didnt get a straight forward answer. I am going to get a nitro rc for christmas and was wondering if the RC10gt is an excellent first nitro. but first i have a couple of questions. plz remember that im a noob at nitro (but a master in electric. i do know the basics of nitro though such as breaking it in, maintenance, and some tuning.). go easy on me.

1. Which parts are the weakest one in the truck?

2. Is this truck good for bashing in huge dirt ramps?

3. If there is antoher beginners truck, which one is a good one?

4. How much will i have to spend each month in fuel, glow plugs, brake discs, and other accesories?

5. I have a futaba 2ph am radio right now. will this be safe to run with the GT?

6. Correct me in these things: when you break it in, you have to put the fuel in, put the glow plug on, prime the engine, and start the engine. keep it running with no control for the directed amount of tanks, then if it stalls and stops i have to richen and lean the engine up a bit. after i get it idling for the whole tank of gas, i have to run it at a slow pace for the directed amount of tanks, then tune it to reach maximum performance. any mistakes in here?

7. Does idle mean staying still while the engine is on? (noob question)

8. heres the major and last question that im confused about. when you are tuning the engine, do u get a certain point in which the engine is in its best performance (with the needles) or does the engine get really good if you completely richen and lean the engine out? i know its bad when doing that, but i need to know the facts.

please take this thread seriously. i would like to start my first nitro truck.

econ909

1. Which parts are the weakest one in the truck? :.......
The front and rear A-arms, spur gear, turnbuckles. you can get rpm A-arms and titanium turnbuckles from lunsford.

2. Is this truck good for bashing in huge dirt ramps?:...
Yes the GT is a verry tough truck.

3. If there is another beginners truck, which one is a good one?;......
XXX-NT sport RTR its good to start big so you can always go bigger like the GT RTR or NT RTR

4. How much will i have to spend each month in fuel, glow plugs, brake discs, and other accesories? ;.....
Depends on how much you drive. clutch shoes,brake disks, slipper clutch,differential. all should last more than 3 gallons or so. more than others

5. I have a futaba 2ch am radio right now. will this be safe to run with the GT?;.........
it should be fine

6. Your engine will come with a manual and talk to your hobby shop. its best for them to break it in for you with you there so you can learn whats up, or go to a local track and talk to some folks

7.You will need a temp gun. its a majical medium after some time you will get it. temp gun temp gun get it befor you get your truck.

AznBash3r

My Feedback: (1)

sweet thats a fast reply.....this is what i like about rcu..... now for the a-arms, how week are they? are they as weak as the hubs? and which spur is gonna last me a long time? again, thanks for the help. preciate it

econ909

they arent really that weak, its just the first thing to go usauly in a wreck. just get a few plastic stock gears. better that the spur strip than something else. make sure you got a clean gear mesh and you can ajust how far your clutch/pinion gear sticks out with shims/washer between your clutch nut and flywheel to line up correctly. get the
*****Front end widening option and the factory graphite options help as well. look into parts with PTFE coating, like thier bearings. they cost 100$ dam!! they should last for ever. MIP clutch and differential..

motoman931172

My Feedback: (4)

yeah and the rpm wide front bumper or anyone else who makes a big bumper is a great option

EdsWords

I have not broken a front or rear 'A' arm in over a year of racing but I have broken a few front steering blocks and a front carrier or two. I also replaced the rear plastic bulkhead with an aluminum part and upgraded the rear 'A' arm carriers with ones from RPM.

I would suggest you also carry some spare 'e' clips and clutch bell bearings. The MIP clutch is a must have.

Those parts are not week, but they are something you will need to replace after a few months of hard driving.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

any of the spurs will last a long time as long as your mesh is set properly

i ran the Robinsons for a long time...NOT the steel spur, you do NOT want the steel spur. stick with plastic.

also, the stock arms aren't weak...the RPM arms are just that much better

PierreM

Hello, All RC10GT RTR people
To whomever it concerns i have had an Rc10gt RTR Plus for one year 9 out of the 12 months it has worked the last three months have been hell.
My engine starts perfectly its just that if i let go the car goes to its half way speed. and that if i hit the gas the engine revs but the car doesn't move i know it might be the tranny but what new good tranny should i buy to make the car faster and i want to know if they make a 2 speed for my car

__________________________________________________ _
All help Greatly Appreciated
THX

Pierre Mardirosian

avg_joe

6. Do a search on this forum for break-in procedure. There is a very good explanation by Frost_ if I remember right.

7. Idle is the slowest speed that your engine can reliably run. Ideally your truck should stay still, but if you are running stock clutch shoes, and they aren't trimmed, you will get some creeping unless you park it on a slight incline, or with the tire against a small rock. Failing clutch bell bearings can cause some creep, too.

8. I'm not sure I understand the question...Find out what the manufacturer's recommended settings are, and start from there. Every engine will vary, but it should be a ballpark setting that you can go from. Completely richen and/or lean the engine will not run period. Running to rich gives poor performance, and will contribute to early engine failure. Running to lean elevates engine temps and will fry an engine in very short time.