Hey i have a MT2 SS with the stock .18SS engine. I can't seem to get the car to idle low enough to just sit there without moving. I have messed with all 3 needles and losensed the slipper clutch as well and no luck?

Any idea?

I think i am missing something here.

all you need to do is lower the trim on your transmitter and then adjust your brake to make sure it isnt engaged at idle.

Sounds like you need to spend some time with the manual..."messed with all three screws and loosened the slipper" will cause more problems unless you know what specific function each of the three screws is. The slipper clutch is for gear protection and traction control, and has nothing to do with keeping the truck still at idle.

The 3 screws are probably the hsn(high speed needle), lsn(low speed needle), and idle speed.

Hsn is accessable from the top, and has to do with fuel mixture from about 1/4 throttle to WOT(wide open throttle). Clockwise will give the engine less fuel(and oil). Common signs of an overly lean mixture is overheating(300+ degrees F.), cutting out at high speed, little or no smoke from the stinger...

Lsn is the screw that goes straight into the carb at the linkage, and controls the fuel mixture from idle to about 1/4 throttle. Clockwise is less fuel. Common signs of an overly lean lsn is high eratic idle, little or no smoke from the stinger...

Idle speed screw is the one that is located under the throat of the carb and goes in at an angle. Clockwise will raise the idle. When lowering the idle, check to make sure that the transmitter is letting the throttle close all the way.(does the idle drop when the brakes are applied? Then trim down throttle servo on transmitter)

Another possibility is that your clutch spring has lost some of it's springy-ness from heat, and it is engaging your clutch to soon.

you could try lightening the clutch?

Dann

Well to be more technical, I have adjusted the HSN to lean it out w/o overheating with good throttle response, any lower and it boggs or stalls out when i accelerate. Same thing for the low speed needle. And the idle screw it adjusted to allow the car to idle and closed throttle. I have tried loosening and tightening the slipper clutch hopeing that it would help but didn't, so i put it back to the factory setting. And the brakes are not engaged at idle

If i drop the trim on the reciever any lower it will stall as well.

any more suggestions?

If it stalls when you hit the brake, then raise the idle until you don't lose any RPM when brakes are applied.

It sounds like your clutch spring has lost some of it's temper due to heat. Pull the clutch bell off and see if the spring that holds the shoes is nice and tight. You can 'tune' the clutch engagement by trimming off coils of the spring and making the engine rev higher before allowing the shoes to engage the bell.

While you have the bell off, take a look at the bearings, and verify that they spin freely. If bearing service is needed, be careful not to leave any excess oil on the bearing that can be thrown onto the clutch bell and cause it to slip.

Well i can brake without it stalling.
Which spring are you talking about? The spring on the slipper clutch assembly?
Or are you talking about the small silver spring that holds each clutch shoe on? The car is only a week old and those springs are on pretty tight.

And to edit one thing from before, the engine doesn't stall when the trim is dropped anymore after adjusting the idle screw.

Well I've spent hours tuning everything, and still can't get the car to just sit there without moving, let alone pick it up and the wheels not spinning?

Anyone have this problem before?

how hard does the car push forward at idle? a little movement is normal.

Dann

My bro-in-laws was doing the same thing. It turned out to be a loose clutch spring. Have you checked your clutch yet?

Yeh its on pretty tight, if I hold the car down it wont move, or stick my foot in front of it, but on its own, it's still rolling

If I drop the idle any further it will stall.

i should move at idle but when u put ur brakes on it shouldent

Maybe I'm wrong...but shouldn't I be able to just sit the car there without it moving?

Im pretty sure it should.

My bro-in-law switched to a lighter clutch setup with a tighter spring and it fixed his right up, now it doesn't try to move until he wants it to.

yeah but its going to stall because the only way to do that is to make it idle realy low
but u can do it but give it some bas every 3 secs so it dosent stall

but u can do it but give it some bas every 3 secs so it dosent stall
edit... gas not bas sorry

You wouldn't happen to have the part or part NO. would you?

I have asc. RC10GT and it doesn't have a spring holding the clutch...they just always hit, so I lightened them and that helped alot. I still have to stop on an incline, or with a front wheel up against a small rock. If your clutch has a spring, there should be no contact until clutch disengagement.
Check bearings in the clutch bell, and shimming of bell. Or maybe shimming of shoes...maybe they are shimmed out too far and rubbing the end of the bell.
Maybe gear mesh is a bit too tight, and putting enough load on the bearings to make it move.
I'm just tossing out ideas...

Sorry but I don't. I can ask him the next time I see him, but it could be quite a while before I run inot him.

On vehicles with a clutch having some sort of retaining spring, there should be NO movement at idle. That is the purpose of the spring. If there is movement at idle, then there is probably a malfunction of some sort. You could just set the brakes up to drag a bit at idle, and then you won't notice the problem. But you haven't solved it.
The reason there is a spring to hold the clutch back is to allow the engine to spool up and get some power behind it before it is trying to turn tires.

Thats what I was thinking the whole time I was reading this

what you can do is lighten you clutch shoes by drilling a hole in the same location the same size in each one, start with holes about 1mm in diametre at the very tips of your clutch shoes, if they need to be lightened mor ethan drill thes holes out to 1.5mm. this will lighten the clutch shoes therefor making the engine have to spool up in order for the clutch shoes to engage.

Dann

Well now that I really think about it, my clutch shoes do not have springs, i think they are just retaining clips

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVK12&P=Z]PICTURE OF CLIPS[/link]

Those silver clips is what is holding the clutch shoes down, but no springs, unless that's what your talking about.
The car actually only came with 2 of them.

my jato's tires will spin at idle if I pick it up, but they don't spin enough to make the truck move at all. [sm=confused.gif]

Anyone else with the MT2 have this problem?