Im new to RC cars, and I did search through the Nitro Evader thread to see if my problem was in there, but I did not find it so Im hoping you guys can help me out. Im having problems with the diff gear, every time I run it, it doesnt take but 5 minutes for it to break. The middle of the gear breaks off the outside of the gear which makes the engine do nothing but spin. I have replaced it 3 times now, and I havent even gotten the thing broken in yet! Any suggestions/ideas on how to get this thing running normally?

i dont own one, but ive heard something about making sure you tighten one of the screws in the diff enough... sorry i know that doesnt help much. maybe the problem is in your transmission case or one of your other gears. hard to diagnose without any experience with that truck.

Do you mean the idler gear? (Gear between the diff gear and drive-shaft)... if so, they are prone to break, especially if you run a tigh setup. a) Slipper gear overtightened, the slipper is the transmission saver. If you run with a tight slipper you are prone to bust the tranny b) tightened diff gear, duratrax states an adjustment of snug-1/8 of a turn.. make sure that by snug you are no tightening it.

finally, sometimes plastic gears loose roundness.. take the tranny apart, but the leave the 3 tranny gears in place
... manually turn the shaft gear..is it smooth? does it have any rough spots? lack of smoothnes is a bad gear.. rough spots is usually a gear with obstructed teeth (i.e. small rock)...

If all else fails. Go metal. I got a metal idler and diff gear with carbide balls. Never worry about the tranny anymore. I read a post once here that some1 had a bad experience with metal gears.

Happy troubleshooting.

All else has failed lol. Where by chance can I get a metal diff gear? My local hobby shop can't get one for me, I have already asked. Thanks for all your help this far.

search www.towerhobbies.com

if you get the aluminum differential, you should get the alum idler as well. Otherwise your alum diff will eat your plastic idler gear..

I found the parts. Im gonna order the aluminum diff gear, aluminum idler gear, and the carbide diff bearings. Thanks for all your help! This definitly should solve my problem.

Hey there flying evader:

I just read your response to this post. I'm a little concerned (started a thread about my recent discoveries on my Evader before I read this thread) about the idler gear/transmission thing as well.

I don't know if you remember, but I started a thread earlier about my Evader stopping. The wheels would bind up after you rolled the car an inch or so. Anyway, you guys pointed me to the tranny but I was a chicken being a novice to cars having experience only in planes and sent it into Duratrax for warranty work (it was only the third time I had it out.)

Before I sent it in the tech support guys told me they thought I only needed to tighten the differential adjust bolt...well, it was tight...so tight I could barely get it to tighten at all. I knew that the books said to back it out an 1/8 of a turn from snug so I was confused why it came from the factory that tight.

Anyway, I tracked my service order today and it says that they put in a new idler gear. Are you guys hearing about alot of these idler gear problems?

Also, what sort of problems are these guys having with the metal gears? I can't imagine why they would be having probs unless maybe the put in one metal gear and left another plastic or something. Otherwise, I would think that all metal gears would be much better than plastic. Again, I'm a novice to cars. I just want to have a car that I work on as little as possible. As cheap as parts are (man...I cannot believe how cheap parts are compared to what it costs to upgrade parts in planes) I'm willing to make mine as indestructible as I can it that means not having to work on it much. Let me know what you think....I really appreciate you guys with the experience...it goes a looooooooong way in my book.

Regards,

Troy

Hey guys:

Sorry to invade the thread again....where at towerhobbies did you find the metal gears? I've looked and can't find any under the list. The differential gear notes say, "no currently available optional part." or something. Just wondering how I can get my hands on those metal gears as well. Thanks again, Troy

in my personal opinion i think the evader tranny is very temperamental. I never busted an idler since i've always heard of tranny issues in post and went metal early on. Experienced evaders users will not have as many problems as they know the right feel of "snug" -1/8... check differential tightness so often (every 4-5 runs), adjust slipper to track traction (if you adjust the slipper to dirt and then go to pavement and dont adjust your slipper.... hi likeliness of busted)... also there is another thread going on about a guy with a nitro evader that had his clutch shoes inverted (is that you), this will result in a stronger engagement... needles to say he busted the idler..

here is the link to tower for the diff gear

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFWF3&P=7

for the idler

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFZP0&P=7

and carbide

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPH0&P=7


weather is getting better... get your cars ready!!

man, the weather is just getting worse here in AZ. i guess its just my turn to be tortured by you guys talking about running your cars when its so hot out here you dont want to go outside for anything. although luckily this next week should be an awesome week of rc. ive got spring break 2 or easter break this next week so me and wide open are just going to drive all week

its raining here.... i open my mouth too soon...

Hi i have had my nitro evader for about 3 months and it runs very well the problem i am having is with the slipper clutch it keeps on tighting itself and i go through way to many sper gears this way i was wondering if the is a way to make it stop tighting itself and still be able to change the setting
thanks

please help. After i start my nitro evader and start to applie throttle it will freak out and go full throttle with out me giving it any throttle. it will stop if i applie the break. I tried to change all the batteries in it and it still does it. what should i do?

never mind i fixed it.

NEVERMIND FOUND ONE....



Is anyone running a metal spur gear on there evader or do they even make one??

maybe im just lucky but i race my evader every saturday night in a gas oval class with the aluminum diff gear and the stock idler gear
and the plain stock diff balls and have never broken a gear or worn out a gear other that a few spur gears, i have also found that robinson racing makes spur gears for the RC10GT that go down to 54 teeth and man does that make a big difference in the top end performance