I just baught a brand new MT2 and it wont start, i folow instructions perfectly, still no start.
Im getting really stressed, plz help

rcmate

ok i got it to start and i did the 3 full tanks of idleing and now i put it on the ground to drive slow and it just bogs and the tires dont move, any ideas?

rcmate

p.s. the first tanks the engine was idleing pretty high, is this normal? (this is my first nitro rc, so i hope i can learn quick), also there was quite a bit of fuel spewing from the muffiler, is this also normal?

It sounds like it is WAY to rich if you see fuel spewing out of the exhaust. Try leaning out the highspeed needle. Also that isn't the best way to break in a new engine despite what the manufacture says. If you decide to get another nitro vehicle or a new engine use the "heat cycling method"

how do i lean it out?? please help

when you first get it running it should spit fuel/oil out the exhaust because the factory sets them rich for breakin.
And of course what would the manufacturer of the engine know about how to break them in??? they only spend millions of dollars on R&D to make sure that things work right. First and foremost if you are NEW to Nitro you SHOULD follow the manufacturers guidelines UNTIL you have enough experience to be able to do something like heat cycling to break in your motor.
Also, IF there are people in your area that do R/C go talk to them and have them watch you and your car/truck and they can help you get it tuned better than trying to figure out which way you should do it from 500 posts on a message board.
As one person I listen to on the radio on the weekends says it: "You need to get a pair of eyes on it, to really be able to diagnose the problem".

hold on a second... I just had an HPI engine that wouldn't run...

the guys at HPI told me to check the exhaust pipe.. where the stinger comes out, they've been getting a bit of flashing in there which is causing pressure to build.. get in to that stinger and make sure it is cleaned out and free... don't be a bonehead like me though and break the stupid pipe...

anyhow, I cleaned that out and my MT2 runs just fine...

I recently got an engine from HPI that I couldn't get to run, I worked with them and then sent it in.. turned out they couldn't get it running either and are sending me a new one.. to this, I don't think less of their engines, things happen, I'm very happy with all of the HPI engines that I do have.. you may want to call/email HPI and see what they can do to help..

i know the high speed needle was messed with even before i got it breaking in, and i went to set it back but this doesnt sound right, tirn fully clockwise and 3 trins counter-clockwise, should i folow that , or thestratcat can u tell me what i sohuld do in your boook?

To turn fully clockwise means to turn the high speed needle in all the way untill it stops then back it out 3 turns for the factory settings. Then go from there to tune it.

ok tyvm i will do so, thanks for the 5 min reply also they dont call it hsn , is there any other word for it?

after I broke the first pipe.. I got wiser.. take something small like a screwdriver, put the shaft into the hole... I found a small file just to make sure that there wasn't any flashing left, the pipe had a bit, but I got it scraped out pretty good. Oh yeah, blow through it to get the chunks of junk out of it...

also, I'm thinking I started break in for mine at about 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 turns out.. the three turns was entirely too rich for where I'm at..


other than that, if we can't help you here, get in touch with HPI... they were great with my problems, we trouble shot it over the phone and email, finally I told them, look, I ain't getting anywhere, it's heading to you, they issued the RMA number and took it in to work on..

I'd say mail it off only after you've tried everything else..

should i do this for the rest of break in ill show u what it says
Needle Valve starting position:
Tirn clockwise until it stops(closed)
Tirn counterclockwise 3 tirns(open.


p.s. Is this hsn?

yes, you want to do that... your HSN needle should be the one that you can see and get to from the top of the engine. If it runs but is spitting out excessive fuel, try shutting the needle 1/8 turn at a time, remember, you want it to be rich for a few tanks so don't get anxios and lean it out too quick.. get it where it will run, but is still spitting fuel and you'll be alright..

ok tyvm, im going outside and im guna try it out for a bit, ill come and tell u how it goes in a hour or so

i went outside went all back to factory and even going quartor throttle it was a blast, the breaks dont work anyhow, when i hit them it stalls, i thnk this is because of the richness but ill keep it like that until after breakin. Thanks for all the help!

rcmate

The stalling may be due to settings for break-in but may also be a low setting on the idle screw. Remember to open throttle(1/4 or so) before turning in, this will save the carb barrel.

i u got big problems with starting it , try new medium cald glow plug, i hade huge problem with my 18ss engine, and now with my new glow plug its great, starts wery easy and goes wery good, offcourse now i have a s-25 engine haha thats "outlaw" the car goes awsome