Team Associated

Hey fellas, can someone tell me which .15 or higher engines will simply drop into the Associated GT2 chassis with minimal or no modification?

Thanks in advance!

Soupy944

im putting a os 18cvrx in mine. it uses the ntc3 pullstart engine mounts, the rc10gt pullstart flywheel, rc10gt side exhaust header and the ntc3 clutch nut. i had to grind down the shaft to make it a short shaft. i will have all the parts soon and will post some pics after its all done. a 12 size engine is needed if your gonna be racing it but im not for the time being so ill get a .12 in the spring and put the os 18 in my maxx. hope this helps![&:]
ps:the factory team kit doesnt come with an engine.

Team Associated

Thanks for the response, Soupy.

After I posted, I did some research and came across the OS .18 engines, but for a novice like myself, that definitely sounds like a bit more tinkering than I'd like to do.

Hey, and what's with this stock rubber filter? It seems really restrictive! Any recommendations on a better one? Link or part number would be great!

Oh, and where can a buy a complete aluminum or Ti turnbuckle set for the front-end?

Thanks! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Soupy944

i think that all os engines come with a high- flow air filter. it really isnt that hard to put in the engine, basically your just replacing the stock parts with others. the os engine will prolly be the easiest to use/tune for you.MUCH better than stock!
the ti turnbuckle kit will most likely include both front and rear parts.

Wide Open

soupy is right, besides from replacing those small parts, the OS will be extremely easy. i used to have an OS .18, it was a great engine. easy to tune, would hold its tune forever, and had tons of power. also, you dont need to cut the stock crankshaft, just get this version. it comes with a short shaft that will fit the NTC3 adapter.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGP8&P=0

i was going to put the .18 from my old truck onto my new gt2, but i had the one with the long shaft, so i gave it to my friend and got an OS .12 TZ.

Team Associated

Hey, this is great information, guys! Thanks for the link too, WO.

I'm still trying to get this darn plastic restrictor sleeve out of my carburetor. []

Wide Open

any time.
also, heres the titanium turnbuckle set for the GT2 (forgot to post it earlier)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPBY7&P=Z

and here are the individual pieces
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYT4&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDU7&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSF98&P=Z

in addition, it sounds like you have the ready to run, so you wont have to buy a new manifold if you get the OS .18, just the NTC3 clutch nut adapter.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMD5&P=M

Team Associated

WO, you're the best, bro. The individual links were very helpful. Coincidentally, I just bought the 3" turnbuckles on eBay, so I didn't need the entire set. The 3" turnbuckles are for the rear, right? Thanks again!

Yes, I have the RTR and you say that means I don't have to find another exhaust header to work with the OS engine?

I have another question. Until I get the OS .18, is there some sort of conversion that needs to be done to use one of the roto-starters or sure-starters? I don't mind the pullstart at all, but easier starting would be great.

Oh, and with the turnbuckles, it said that I needed nylon rod ends, but I'm not entirely sure what that means.

XXT-CRer

looks like your mind is already made up so i could have made a sandwich instead of typing this, but since ive started already,,,,,,,,,,,,,


ive owned trinity sirio's, all the traxxas engines, (even the image 12 from way back in 1992, ) ,,,,,,,,

lets see here, what else,,,,oh yea, novarossi's, and a force,,,,,,,a dynamite pd.12 by paris racing engines


they have all been pretty good, well, maybe not the force, lol.


right now i only own os engines. i have 2 .18cvr's with the rotary carb, 1 18 cvr with the slide carb, 1 os .15 cvx.


i can vouch for the os name, i dont plan to ever by anything else for 1/10 scale. (1/8th too maybe) they are so easy to tune, if fact, i havent touched the low speed needles on either of the 18 rotary carb engines in at least 6 months, and just barely tweaked the high speed needles.

os has my endorsment, they are awesome.

Team Associated

That's great information, Drake. You have my thanks.

Team Associated

By the way, do the OS engines arrive with preset factory settings for break-in?

Wide Open

OS engines, like all engines, come with the needles backed out a certain amount from the factory. it pretty much ensures that you are going to be on the rich side no matter what. most of the time the needles will need to be leaned as youre going through break in. i dont know about converting the starting system on the .18, though. i just always used the pullstart on mine. also, if you look at that link i provided to the OS .18 above, youll see that the exhaust comes out on the right side of the engine (cant see it anywhere else, the carb kind of covers it), same as the engine that came with your truck, so you will be able to use the same manifold.

yes, the 3 inch turnbuckles are for the rear, and the shorter ones are for the front.
the rod ends for the rear are these. (the gt2 uses the same part as the TC3 in this case)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFZL5&P=Z

the ones for the front are these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3257&P=Z

Team Associated

Thanks for the clarification, WO.

I was wondering what are the stickiest Proline on-road tires available, the Road Rage or Road Hawg series?

Also, do racers put much effort into lightening the truck by using carbon fiber, Ti or aluminum replacement parts? I understand the concept of strengthening turnbuckles and other components prone to inevitably breaking, but is weight reduction an issue too?

Cheers!

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

as far as powerful engines, an STS ST12R or an OS .12TR would be more than enough for a basher GT2. IMO the .18s out there, specifically the 18TZ, TM, and CV-R are just way too much for a 4 1/2 lb truck

Wide Open

i agree about the TZ and the TM, but the CV-R's are actually pretty well matched to the needs of 1/10 scale. when i ran my .18, it had plenty of power, but i never felt that it overpowered the chassis. to compare, the .12 TZ im running now seems to feel like the .18, only the rpm's are higher.

lightening the car isnt something ive ever done. the car is built to distribute its weight for better handling, and i would think that trying to mess with the weight too much might affect that. im not saying dont go buy carbon fiber, its just that spending time trying to lighten it a bunch might not be worth it IMO.

lastly, ive found that this tire is just a good all around tire. whether it be the size for minis, or the 1/10 scale size, this tire seems to have good grip in any on road situation.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLN12&P=0

Team Associated

Thanks. I'm assuming it's common to buy another complete set of wheel for a new set of tires?

Confused. Are you suggesting that the .12TR is about as fast as a .18 CR-R?

Also, is there a roll cage available for the GT2?

Wide Open

yes, normally you buy rims with tires since you have to glue the tires to the rims to keep them from coming apart.
thunderbird was talking about the .12 TR, which is basically the same as the .12 TZ, but with less power. i was saying that the .12 TZ has more rpm's than the .18 CV-R, but cant quite match it in power. the TZ is mostly meant for racing, while the .18 would be better for every day driving.

Soupy944

and for bashing the 18 is about 100 bux less.

Team Associated

Makes perfect sense to me! [sm=thumbup.gif]

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

I was saying that the TR has more than enough power for a stadium truck. you only have so much truck to move, and more power only makes for MORE ridiculous wheelies or MORE wheelspin after a point.

Team Associated

I'm sure the .18 in my XTM isn't anywhere near on-par with the OS .18 engines, but it certainly doesn't wheelie or transfer excessive wheel spin.

Thanks for the input though.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Freddie...trust me. a good .12 will make any stadium truck rock the house way better than the .18 in the X-Cellerator.

Team Associated

Damn, how come the .12 engines cost so much? There's one in there for over $300.

Rebeldude

My Feedback: (5)

Ok, Looks like you are sold on OS but let me speak my peace anyway. When I bought my Factory Team GT about 2 years ago the owner of the hobby shop recommended the Dynamite .12spd. He said it was one of the best engines on the market at the time. This hobby shop has 5 tracks of various types and has all types of racing. www.smallcarsunlimited.com I was new to nitro so I took his advice. I still have the truck with the .12spd. It holds a tune and it cranks everytime. It is a fast as I would ever need and it is race compliant. I just bought an OS.18TM for my maxx and I am happy with it also but the Dynamite engine has really impressed me, especially for the price. I am not saying that OS is bad, so please don't take it that way. I just think they are on the pricey side. I would have bought a Dynamite for my maxx but the only thing they had was the full .28 conversion for 300 bucks. Just giving you another option. Good Luck.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Freddie, the $300 one is an on road engine...NOT gonna be a great one to run with a 2wd truck

Right now mark over there at www.stsmicroengines.com is rearranging his website...the ST12R should reappear soon. it's dirt cheap and it rocks

also, check out the SH .12s over at hobbypeople.net, and the .12CV-R at Tower